Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm gonna make this as short as possible for everybody reading this. 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 LTZ crew cab. During cold start no CEL comes on, no issues, runs great. Once it warms up after about 15ish minutes, the truck starts to bog and sounds cammed, raising and lowering the rpm trying to keep it alive before eventually dying. The truck is bone stock, and doesn't even have bigger tires on it. We've replaced the fuel pump, fuel module, and I believe more at this point. Been fighting this same issue for well over a year at this point. 

 

Multiple Chevy mechanics and dealerships have tried and failed, as well as a few data loggers have gone in and tried too find anything wrong with it and that's how we replaced what we have computer-wise. We are at a complete loss with this anymore and are about 20k into a truck we have no interest in actually keeping. 

 

I've read some things about these with similar issues, a lot of people pointing at the same things. Could it be the body control module? Could it be the actual fuel supply pump? Any help with this issue is very greatly appreciated and any direction you guys who might've had similar issues can point me in is also very appreciated. 

 

Thank you to all who read

  • Like 1
Posted

You ought to get a scan tool that can record what's going on when the problem crops up. My first thought on reading this is that this is a problem when the system goes into closed loop mode once the motor gets to temp.  Could also be heat related.  So having said that I believe it's induction related, MAP, MAF sensor problem.

Posted

Try performing a fuel composition reset . There was a problem in some of those years where the percentage of alcohol would rise and skew the fuel trims and drivability issues would be the result. See what it is reading before you reset it. Should be 10% or less.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 10/28/2023 at 4:53 AM, Syrius Ray said:

I'm gonna make this as short as possible for everybody reading this. 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 LTZ crew cab. During cold start no CEL comes on, no issues, runs great. Once it warms up after about 15ish minutes, the truck starts to bog and sounds cammed, raising and lowering the rpm trying to keep it alive before eventually dying. The truck is bone stock, and doesn't even have bigger tires on it. We've replaced the fuel pump, fuel module, and I believe more at this point. Been fighting this same issue for well over a year at this point. 

 

Multiple Chevy mechanics and dealerships have tried and failed, as well as a few data loggers have gone in and tried too find anything wrong with it and that's how we replaced what we have computer-wise. We are at a complete loss with this anymore and are about 20k into a truck we have no interest in actually keeping. 

 

I've read some things about these with similar issues, a lot of people pointing at the same things. Could it be the body control module? Could it be the actual fuel supply pump? Any help with this issue is very greatly appreciated and any direction you guys who might've had similar issues can point me in is also very appreciated. 

 

Thank you to all who read

Firstly, check out the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and make sure it's all good – clean and working like a charm. If it's acting up, especially when the temperature changes, it could mess with your fuel delivery.

Also, pay attention to the throttle body. If it's gunked up or not doing its job, you might notice some wonky idling and subpar performance. Give it a good cleaning or think about swapping it out.

Considering the age of your ride, take a peek at those fuel injectors too. They can get all gunked up over time, messing with your fuel delivery. A pro cleaning or a possible replacement could be the fix.

You've tackled the electrical side by swapping out some parts, but it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the ignition system. Dodgy spark plugs or a wonky ignition coil can cause issues similar to what you've been dealing with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 943 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...