Jump to content

20' Sierra Remote-Start not working

KinkyDuramax
 Share

Recommended Posts

KinkyDuramax Enthusiast

KinkyDuramax

Posted
Posted

Hi,

 

Both key fobs for my 20' Sierra is not working for remote-start. However it does unlock/lock/open tail gate Etc. 

I've replaced both batteries in the fobs, and tried again no luck. Anything I'm missing here?

 

Previous to this problem: I had a CEL due to a TSB that was resolved the other day. The GMC Dealership instructed us to wait after the CEL clears to attempt a remote-start. A friend of mine (former mechanic at the same GM dealer) mentioned that an electronic hood latch could set the computer to not allow remote-start (odd I know). He mentioned I'd have to pop by and have him plug in the truck to the system and see whats causing it to not remote-start.

 

I'm still planning on doing so, but in the mean time has anyone else witnessed this problem? I've been researching but doesn't seem like much information, maybe just bugged out?

Some websites show like low coolant, or pressure but I've never seen an error on the dash Etc.

 

The truck just ticked over 60k. My 23' doesn't have this issue. 

SteveP45 Enthusiast

SteveP45

Posted
Posted

Could be a defective hood latch…. Any other false MIL appearing?  Like false service esc or service abs or service fwd without codes being generated and stored for the false MIL

 

will remote start work at least once after all codes are cleared?

 

Do you run your vehicle through high pressure car washes or use a pressure sprayer on the front anywhere near the hood latch 

KinkyDuramax Enthusiast

KinkyDuramax

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 minutes ago, SteveP45 said:

Could be a defective hood latch…. Any other false MIL appearing?  Like false service esc or service abs or service fwd without codes being generated and stored for the false MIL

 

will remote start work at least once after all codes are cleared?

 

Do you run your vehicle through high pressure car washes or use a pressure sprayer on the front anywhere near the hood latch 

No other codes are showing actively when driving, or starting up. The mechanic would have to plug in and check. I don't have a tool myself.

 

Prior to this, it did work yes. 

 

The truck doesn't get washed often, but if it does it will go through a touchless or one of those that go on the belt. 

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

First, get an ODB II tool. I bought one a couple of years ago when my 2015 threw a CEL and it has been invaluable since (just repaired an "Emissions" problem on the wife's car for cheap with the help of the reader).

 

Second - There are different types of codes. Predominantly, we talk about DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). When the ECU detects that something is not operating as expected, it will illuminate (or in some cases flash) the CEL to let us know something is amiss. These codes can be cleared but will return if the underlying problem is not corrected. Once cleared, the CEL will go away until the code gets set again.

 

Then there are PDTC's (Permanent DTC's) which are retained in the ECU even after the DTC that caused it has been corrected. Mostly, these are the result of things like evap / emissions related issues. This is what happened with my wife's car - I could clear the DTC but it remained in the ECU as a PDTC.

 

The way you clear a PDTC is to correct the underlying problem that cause the DTC, clear the DTC, then drive it for "a while." It will take some combination of drive cycles (warm up / cool down) and distance driven for the ECU to determine that the original DTC is not returning and then it will clear the PDTC out on its own.

 

There are also Pending Codes which are when the ECU detects something is off, but wants to see what happens over the next couple of drive cycles to decide if the code needs to be set and the CEL illuminated.

 

You could have a combination of DTC's, Pending Codes, and PDTC's in the ECU that are preventing the remote start from working. inCarDoc and Track Addict are two good apps for your phone that will work with a number of basic OBD II reader plugs. For reference, if you are interested, this is the one I have: https://a.co/d/3XwBOlw

 

For less than $25, I have a useful tool that allows me to look just a touch "deeper" into what's going on with my vehicles before I head down the path of bringing it to a mechanic. I was able to diagnose a failing high pressure fuel pump on my 2015 Silverado and a failed Oil Pressure Switch on my wife's Acura. While I leveraged a private mechanic for the truck, I supplied my own OEM parts at a significant discount compared to what he would have had to charge for them and I was able to fix the latter issue on my own in about 5 minutes with just the replacement switch (under $50).

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, ARedSierra said:

Hi,

 

Both key fobs for my 20' Sierra is not working for remote-start. However it does unlock/lock/open tail gate Etc. 

I've replaced both batteries in the fobs, and tried again no luck. Anything I'm missing here?

 

Previous to this problem: I had a CEL due to a TSB that was resolved the other day. The GMC Dealership instructed us to wait after the CEL clears to attempt a remote-start. A friend of mine (former mechanic at the same GM dealer) mentioned that an electronic hood latch could set the computer to not allow remote-start (odd I know). He mentioned I'd have to pop by and have him plug in the truck to the system and see whats causing it to not remote-start.

 

I'm still planning on doing so, but in the mean time has anyone else witnessed this problem? I've been researching but doesn't seem like much information, maybe just bugged out?

Some websites show like low coolant, or pressure but I've never seen an error on the dash Etc.

 

The truck just ticked over 60k. My 23' doesn't have this issue. 

 

 

CEL stops the remote start from working.  Bad hood latch can too and often the failed latch will set the CEL.  

 

 

Edited by newdude
SteveP45 Enthusiast

SteveP45

Posted
Posted

A faulty hood latch may not result in any codes being generated or stored.   I posted extensively on this about a year ago.  You may get false MILs and no codes generated or stored.  Or the false MIL may store a code.  Once the codes are cleared the remote start may work once or twice.  It took several months to get to the real cause,.  A faulty hood latch which was not generating the correct resistance, but it was also not causing a hood open MIL either.

 

Also make sure all the windows are fully up... if they are down just a hair, the remote start will not work,  Also if a door is not fully closed it will not work, nor will it work if a sliding back window is not fully closed,,,, it will not work if the throttle pedal is depressed at all by anything.... it will not work if the fuel pressure is not correct......or if the battery is low....etc...

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, SteveP45 said:

A faulty hood latch may not result in any codes being generated or stored.   I posted extensively on this about a year ago.  You may get false MILs and no codes generated or stored.  Or the false MIL may store a code.  Once the codes are cleared the remote start may work once or twice.  It took several months to get to the real cause,.  A faulty hood latch which was not generating the correct resistance, but it was also not causing a hood open MIL either.

 

Also make sure all the windows are fully up... if they are down just a hair, the remote start will not work,  Also if a door is not fully closed it will not work, nor will it work if a sliding back window is not fully closed,,,, it will not work if the throttle pedal is depressed at all by anything.... it will not work if the fuel pressure is not correct......or if the battery is low....etc...

 

Hood switch doesn't have to be faulty, just has to be open. 

 

I've never heard / read about 'window open' stopping remote start.  

Got something new to test now!

 

 

Edited by redwngr
ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, redwngr said:

 

Hood switch doesn't have to be faulty, just has to be open. 

 

 

 

True, but I think what @SteveP45 is saying is that the latch could be faulty and ultimately be at least participating in the cause, and you wouldn't necessarily know because the issue isn't "bad enough" for the truck to throw any sort of code or light up the CEL. So, even with the hood closed, and the truck not seeing "hood open", the latch could still be the culprit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • newdude
      Radio Update

      By newdude · Posted

      PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...