Jump to content

2024 Custom - Driver-side Rattles

The Hoss
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Hoss Enthusiast

The Hoss

Posted
Posted

Hey all, I'm the type that can get annoyed by rattles. Especially when they are quite loud. I have 2 right now that I'm dying to get fixed. One the dealer can't find and the other they said was "normal". Just trying to get your thoughts on it, and maybe even a solution.  I have tried searching the forums with no luck. I'm not always the best at finding things though.

 

1st. The first rattle comes from under the dash on driver side. It ONLY happens after first starting, when I first drive out of my drive way. Two things make it happen... 1st, if you slightly press the brake pedal and let go right away, it's a clicky/rattle sound, or when I drive out of my driveway over the curb/threshold onto the road. It sounds almost like the steering column clicks back and forth. It literally won't do it again once I start driving. When I lightly tap the brake pedal to make it happen, I can tap it a couple times making it happen, then by the time I'm on the road it doesn't happen anymore.

The dealer said this is something to do with the ABS system doing a check. He said he's had lots of complaints that sound the same. This is my 30th vehicle (for real) and I've driven tons of HD trucks for work. I've never had this happen. It makes my new truck sound like garbage. Anyone come across this?

 

2nd. The second rattle is behind the driver dash as well. To reproduce it, I have to go over a medium bump at 50-60km/h (30mph?). It especially happens when the driver front tire hits a bump where the weight of the truck comes off it for a split second. Almost like a bad strut. Its like a hollow knocking type rattle. I thought I found it when I giggled my hood release, but after holding it while hitting those bumps, realized it wasn't it. Anyone experience this? My dealer hears it, but can't find it. Getting really annoyed.

 

Thanks.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

First one is probably normal.  ABS self test is likely.

 

Second one.  Could be a loose coolant reservoir.  

 

 

PIT6058: Rattle / Clunk / Tap Noise From Front Of Vehicle - (Sep 14, 2023)

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a rattle / clunk / tap noise that seems to be coming from the front of the vehicle.  The noise may sound like it is coming from behind the IP dash, door, body, suspension or under hood areas.  In some cases, this noise can be very hard to duplicate and/or locate.

Cause

The cause of this concern could be one of the engine coolant reservoir/ surge tank mounting bolt(s) being loose, example shown below.

 

Correction

To correct this concern, inspect all of the engine coolant reservoir/ surge tank mounting bolt(s) for being properly torqued and tighten any loose bolts to 9 Nm (80 lb. in). 

The Hoss Enthusiast

The Hoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, newdude said:

First one is probably normal.  ABS self test is likely.

 

Second one.  Could be a loose coolant reservoir.  

 

 

PIT6058: Rattle / Clunk / Tap Noise From Front Of Vehicle - (Sep 14, 2023)

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a rattle / clunk / tap noise that seems to be coming from the front of the vehicle.  The noise may sound like it is coming from behind the IP dash, door, body, suspension or under hood areas.  In some cases, this noise can be very hard to duplicate and/or locate.

Cause

The cause of this concern could be one of the engine coolant reservoir/ surge tank mounting bolt(s) being loose, example shown below.

 

Correction

To correct this concern, inspect all of the engine coolant reservoir/ surge tank mounting bolt(s) for being properly torqued and tighten any loose bolts to 9 Nm (80 lb. in). 

Thanks for the fast reply. I'm sad to hear the first one is normal as no other vehicle I've had or driven has done it, so poor design it seems, but I can get past this one since it goes away after a min.

 

I forgot to mention, my dealer tried two things to fix the other one. They tightened the coolant reservoir (which actually was loose). They also tightened the license plate bracket, fastening the top to the bumper. It was rattling and the paint on the bumper was wearing off at the top of the bracket where it had been vibrating. Neither of these got rid of it unfortunately. 

 

I also just remembered one more aspect. When it's raining or the roads are really wet I tend to not hear the second rattle. Also, I just did an 1100km trip and I haven't heard it the two times I've driven since. Right before the trip it was crazy obnoxious though and getting worse. I did drive through a LOT of rain on the 1100km drive.  Not sure how that could effect it?

 

I saw one post on a forum where a bolt was loose under the windshield wiper cowling. Wasn't sure if that could be my rattle.

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted

The second one sounds like the hydraulic steering rattle these trucks have.  It is worse when it's cold out due to rubber in steering system getting stiff.  The steering cooler is rattling due to not enough rubber in the return line to dampen the pulses in steering system from having tires hitting a bump.  There is not much the dealer can do.  I have seen making the supply and return lines not touch at gear helps and also making sure the steering cooler can move freely helps but nothing kills it.  You could remove the cooler or hang by bungy cords to test the theory.

 

I have heard the first issue as well and it seems only to occur after an overnight soak and seems worse in cold temps.  It seems to be tied to brake switch releasing the shift lock to allow shifting from park.  I don't know of any known fixes for this issue.

 

I think both of these are characteristics of this generation of truck.  This generation of truck when they tied the front end sheet metal to the cab has created a noise path straight up the steering column.  There are steering and brake systems noises that are more noticeable than the pre 2020 trucks that use basically the same parts.

 

You won't like my answer but you probably are going to have to learn to love it.  

 

#iworkforGM

The Hoss Enthusiast

The Hoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, MTU Alum said:

The second one sounds like the hydraulic steering rattle these trucks have.  It is worse when it's cold out due to rubber in steering system getting stiff.  The steering cooler is rattling due to not enough rubber in the return line to dampen the pulses in steering system from having tires hitting a bump.  There is not much the dealer can do.  I have seen making the supply and return lines not touch at gear helps and also making sure the steering cooler can move freely helps but nothing kills it.  You could remove the cooler or hang by bungy cords to test the theory.

 

I have heard the first issue as well and it seems only to occur after an overnight soak and seems worse in cold temps.  It seems to be tied to brake switch releasing the shift lock to allow shifting from park.  I don't know of any known fixes for this issue.

 

I think both of these are characteristics of this generation of truck.  This generation of truck when they tied the front end sheet metal to the cab has created a noise path straight up the steering column.  There are steering and brake systems noises that are more noticeable than the pre 2020 trucks that use basically the same parts.

 

You won't like my answer but you probably are going to have to learn to love it.  

 

#iworkforGM

Wow, thanks so much for the insight.

The first issue definitely sounds like it's tied to the shift release mechanism... the click you get when you press the brake and it allows the shifter to move.

 

Regarding the 2nd issue, it kinda frustrates me, but I'm at least satisfied in the sense of, "I'm not crazy, there actually is an issue". I've been searching and searching and can't find any answers, so thanks for explaining.

 

Really appreciate it, even if it wasn't a solution.

 

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

The second one sounds like the hydraulic steering rattle these trucks have.  It is worse when it's cold out due to rubber in steering system getting stiff.  The steering cooler is rattling due to not enough rubber in the return line to dampen the pulses in steering system from having tires hitting a bump.  There is not much the dealer can do.  I have seen making the supply and return lines not touch at gear helps and also making sure the steering cooler can move freely helps but nothing kills it.  You could remove the cooler or hang by bungy cords to test the theory.

 

...  

 

#iworkforGM

 

Could the cold weather power steering hose kit that is available cure this? I've always wondered what gm had this kit for?

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, gemarsh said:

 

Could the cold weather power steering hose kit that is available cure this? I've always wondered what gm had this kit for?

No, there is a different fluid and different hoses to prevent them from bursting in extreme cold temps when you brake and turn at slow speeds.

 

#iworkforGM

rjgvt Enthusiast

rjgvt

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, MTU Alum said:

No, there is a different fluid and different hoses to prevent them from bursting in extreme cold temps when you brake and turn at slow speeds.

 

#iworkforGM


I live in Vermont, what is considered extreme cold temps?

The Hoss Enthusiast

The Hoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm northeast of Toronto. It can get fairly cold here too. Dunno what extreme means though. Depends who you ask 😆

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No1UKnow
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By No1UKnow · Posted

      Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • Atomicgrl
      ‘25 Silverado purchase- back to dealership for bumper/radio issue

      By Atomicgrl · Posted

      The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Jus Cruisin
      Rear Crew Cab Door Wont Open

      By Jus Cruisin · Posted

      Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • PBNB
      Thoughts on these wheels?

      By PBNB · Posted

      I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...