04 Sierra 1500 Rotted Fuel Lines

[Mayhem100]

2004 Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4.  SLT, ecsb, about 232000 miles on it.  Good and crusty all over, but she's got life left in her and I use it as a backup vehicle, hauler, plow my driveway when we ever actually get any snow.  Hoping to get another couple years out of it before it dissolves into the earth.

 

Went through the rotted brake line fiasco as any owner eventually does, now the fuel lines are kaput.  The rear tank strap gave out on me right after I filled it up and yanked the lines enough to break through a thin spot and the top line started squirting gas out the side.  Got it home, fixed the rear strap and now I've got to either replace the lines or splice in some rubber fuel lines.  I got the top line cut with a pipe cutter and I have some fuel line around that fits the OD of the existing line snugly...but then as I was putting it on today I saw that the lower line had a nice hole in it on the corner right near the end fitting by the tank (see photo 1)

 

So I'm wondering if this is a viable rubber fuel line repair still or if I need to stop and just bite the bullet and get a couple new metal lines (or if they're even still made out of metal?)?  I've attached a couple photos...most of the length of these lines are pretty solid, but the back by the tank plastic fittings are pretty crusty looking.  Does anyone have an opinion on a reliable cheap repair here or is this a $300+ kit away from being done?  I think the rest of the lines are ok, or maybe thats just wishful thinking.  Not convinced there's enough metal left in that lower line to get a rubber line over it, but if it doesn't really carry much pressure maybe its not a big deal, so long as I can get it on there and clamp it.

 

Looking at the connectors at the front of the steel lines where they go to what I think is flex line, I'm not sure how those connectors even come apart, or if they will really.  Also, which line is which?  I'm assuming top is fuel feed and lower is either return or evap?  Tank end connectors are compress, squeeze and separate, right?  Assuming the rust isn't going to mess it up?

 

Tank end with upper line cut

 

 

Lines running along the frame rail, you can see the cut in the top one.

 

 

Front connectors.

 

 

 

 

Thoughts and recommendations are greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

 

 

[richard wysong]

Use steel lines. find a clean area on the old lines on the engine end  after the flex hoses and cut there with a tubing cutter.Splice the new lines in with compression unions. on the tank end they make line repair kits for the special ends in the quick releases that also splice in with compression unions. Its easier to unbolt the bed and prop it up to do this than dropping the tank. If you do opt for rubber hose make sure it is fuel injection hose rated for 100 psi, Working pressure is 50-60 psi

[Mayhem100]

This looks like it might be what I need, assuming I can get the ends out of the plastic fittings at the tank end.

 

https://www.amazon.com/partszen-FLFG0340-Chevrolet-Silverado-2004-2010/dp/B0CKVG27MP

 

Yes?  No?

 

[richard wysong]

I believe that is the repair kit for plastic lines but let us know if it indeed replaces the metal lines

[newdude]

15 hours ago, Mayhem100 said:

This looks like it might be what I need, assuming I can get the ends out of the plastic fittings at the tank end.

 

https://www.amazon.com/partszen-FLFG0340-Chevrolet-Silverado-2004-2010/dp/B0CKVG27MP

 

Yes?  No?

 

 

 

Looks like it?  Those are nylon lines other than the short rubber ends on there.  Looks like it has high pressure clamps as well.  

 

This would be a better option over rubber.  

[Mayhem100]

Just wanted to follow up and say that the plastic line set I bought from Amazon did the trick for me.  It was cheap, easy to route the lines and everything fit together perfectly and without any leakage.  I only used the fuel line and opted to use a bit of rubber fuel line to seal up the evap line.  So far so good, waiting for the computer to go through its drive cycle before I call it a complete success and don't need to swap out the evap line as well.

 

Not my neatest work ever, but its in, it got my truck back on the road and its all tucked away under the truck.

 

Good solution for an old rusty, crusty truck where you don't want to spend $800 for the OEM lines...but if anyone needs the info, I got the part numbers for my VIN from a GM dealer.  2004 extended cab, 6.5' bed, 5.3 non flex.

 

fuel      15946219    $441.62
evap    15946251    $345.14