Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a 2024 silverado 2500 HD custom gasser with 20 inch wheels standard. The door sticker says the truck can tow 16k Conventional. However, the brochure says only 12k Conventional with 20 inch wheels. But, 16k with 18 inch wheels with mt tires. Can someone explain why the difference between the door sticker and the brochure, which do I believe, and, if the brochure, why the difference with the wheels? 

 

Thank you

Posted (edited)
50 minutes ago, bigblue2024 said:

I just bought a 2024 silverado 2500 HD custom gasser with 20 inch wheels standard. The door sticker says the truck can tow 16k Conventional. However, the brochure says only 12k Conventional with 20 inch wheels. But, 16k with 18 inch wheels with mt tires. Can someone explain why the difference between the door sticker and the brochure, which do I believe, and, if the brochure, why the difference with the wheels? 

 

Thank you

 

 

Brochure is incorrect (not sure what brochure you are reading though as GM stopped printing them).  Mud tires lower the tow rating.

 

Here's the note in the order guide:  

  • NOTE: Trucks equipped with (QG3) LT275/70R18 mud-terrain, blackwall tires have maximum conventional trailer weight rating of 12,000 lbs.

 

Follow the door jamb.

 

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted

Door sticker is what I would go with as THAT is what any insurance company will go with as well.

The wheels size is determining the tire ability based upon sidewall available and the "toughness" weight rating of the tire I believe.

You can run a higher ply tire in a 20" and likely get close to what an 18" tire can give but my 20's and 22's only have a 500# per tire difference both factory tires. I just use the 20's for winter.

1000#s per tire is a reasonable difference that makes sense, best bet is to see what your tires are rated at. IMO

Posted
1 minute ago, johnnyquick said:

Door sticker is what I would go with as THAT is what any insurance company will go with as well.

The wheels size is determining the tire ability based upon sidewall available and the "toughness" weight rating of the tire I believe.

You can run a higher ply tire in a 20" and likely get close to what an 18" tire can give but my 20's and 22's only have a 500# per tire difference both factory tires. I just use the 20's for winter.

1000#s per tire is a reasonable difference that makes sense, best bet is to see what your tires are rated at. IMO

 

 

The 18" mud tires are the same size and load index as the AT 18" tire they use but due to the tread softness and squirm presented when towing during their testing and validation of tow ratings, GM lowered the tow ratings specifically on trucks with the MT due to that.

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Brochure is incorrect (not sure what brochure you are reading though as GM stopped printing them).  Mud tires lower the tow rating.

 

Here's the note in the order guide:  

  • NOTE: Trucks equipped with (QG3) LT275/70R18 mud-terrain, blackwall tires have maximum conventional trailer weight rating of 12,000 lbs.

 

Follow the door jamb.

 

 

Your not referring to ,, this,, manual are you? I got one in my 2024 WT 3500. In the glove box.20240710_195424.thumb.jpg.6313919538198fe13ad4d530d332dc32.jpg 

Edited by lineman1234
spelling
Posted

Thank you everyone. This is the brochure or towing guide I was referring to. Thank you newdude. The ordering guide makes sense. The load index on my tires is 126, so I'm pretty sure I'm good there.Screenshot_20240803_090732_AdobeAcrobat.thumb.jpg.42e07da97dc5ed9f2650b83bdbc18756.jpg

Posted
7 hours ago, lineman1234 said:

Your not referring to ,, this,, manual are you? I got one in my 2024 WT 3500. In the glove box.20240710_195424.thumb.jpg.6313919538198fe13ad4d530d332dc32.jpg 

 

 

No.  OP posted a screen of the brochure he was referring to.  

 

Towing information is on the door jambs on these trucks and is build specific.  Tow ratings, payload, GVWR and GCWR.  

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, bigblue2024 said:

Thank you everyone. This is the brochure or towing guide I was referring to. Thank you newdude. The ordering guide makes sense. The load index on my tires is 126, so I'm pretty sure I'm good there.Screenshot_20240803_090732_AdobeAcrobat.thumb.jpg.42e07da97dc5ed9f2650b83bdbc18756.jpg

 

 

 

Yea looks like they have that reversed.  

Posted

What i found interesting a month ago when i specked out my 2024 6.6 gasser 3500 regular cab 4x4 WT SRW, to a DRW. To maybe go the fulltime truck camper life, instead of the currant comfy 5ver life. Of course the dually has way more payload, and ball hitch towing is 2,000lbs more, as well as the/a 5ver hitch lbs. But,,,,,,,,,,    the towing part was 300lbs less than the srw on the 5ver/goose part. 

  • Like 1
Posted

The biggest difference between the 18" and 20" tires is side wall, weight and truck configuration.  I would also guess the wheels themselves dictate differences in towing/payload limits.

Posted

There is a typo in the Chevrolet website footnote and I have been trying to fix it for a month or so.

 

Only trucks with QG3 - Hankook dynpro have the reduced conventional towing.  The gooseneck fifth wheel numbers are unchanged.  This tire is no longer available but you may still find a few on the lots.

 

#iworkforGM

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

There is a typo in the Chevrolet website footnote and I have been trying to fix it for a month or so.

 

Only trucks with QG3 - Hankook dynpro have the reduced conventional towing.  The gooseneck fifth wheel numbers are unchanged.  This tire is no longer available but you may still find a few on the lots.

 

#iworkforGM

 

QG3 does have a 'no longer available' note in the order guide

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,220 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...