Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

How is the auto seat adjust supposed to work in my 2015 LTZ Silverado? When I open the drivers door the seat (most times) moves forward before I can sit in it, it usually moves back when I shut off the truck. Sometimes it does not go forward and I have to pusH the #1 button on the seat controls on the door. Is this controlled by the body control module? Do I need to replace the BCM? There are no codes set for the BCM.

Posted

You could reprogram it so it doesn't move automatically. I don't think it is supposed to move until the key is in the ignition

Posted
13 hours ago, dna9656 said:

How is the auto seat adjust supposed to work in my 2015 LTZ Silverado? When I open the drivers door the seat (most times) moves forward before I can sit in it, it usually moves back when I shut off the truck. Sometimes it does not go forward and I have to pusH the #1 button on the seat controls on the door. Is this controlled by the body control module? Do I need to replace the BCM? There are no codes set for the BCM.

Do you have the easy exit feature turned on?

Posted (edited)

I have no idea if it's turned on or not. When I open the door the seat goes in one direction or the other, usually backwards. It moves forward before I sit down or it just stays backed up all the way.

Edited by dna9656
Spelling, punctuation
Posted (edited)
On 8/26/2024 at 1:22 PM, dna9656 said:

I have ni idea if it's turned on or not. When I open the door the seat goes in one direction or the other, usually backwards. It moves forward before I sit down or it just stays backed up all the way.

 Settings > Vehicle > Seating Position. Enable Seat Entry Memory. Enable Seat Easy Exit.

 

The other thing to check is, what key fob are you using? Each one will have it's own memory settings if they were both set up with the seats.

Edited by JimCost2014
  • Like 1
Posted

What Jim above said. Also, your dash display will show which FOB you're using...i.e. Driver 1, Driver 2....

My wife is short so if I use her key it pushes me into the steering wheel & I have to stop it or get crushed. I started coloring the FOBs to ID mine & hers.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I got one key fob when I bought the truck, I suppose I should get another one.

Edited by dna9656
Spelling, punctuation
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I got a key made at Ace Hardware, this is THE place to get a key made, way less $ than anyone else!

Posted
1 hour ago, dna9656 said:

I got a key made at Ace Hardware, this is THE place to get a key made, way less $ than anyone else!

You will see if it is the correct key when you do this.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Spot on. The government makes ridiculous mandates, and this causes manufacturers to jump through hoops for every TENTH of a MPG. Main reason quality is in the toilet and prices are in the stratosphere.   The gov't tightened the MPG requirements so much 5 years ago that the only way manufacturers could meet these absolutely ridiculous numbers was to go all EV. Hence the push.     Nobody hates good MPG, Atlas - nobody is "whining". Your side has that trait all locked up. What a stupid argument attempt!   What I particularly hate is the government meddling in the free market system. Had this system been allowed to work as designed and intended by our Founders, cars and trucks would be hitting numbers that would blow our minds, all while costing 30% LESS. Not only that, but engines could probably hit 150k miles again without needing major internal surgery.   My forty year old Ford 302 has 312k on it. Wonder what changed?🤔
    • The BORA 3/8" spacers arrived yesterday along with the extended lug nuts. I got the front wheels changed out today, but was overheated and covered in sweat so bad, I figured getting both front wheels done was a win, and took a cool shower. Hopefully, I'll go out tomorrow morning before it gets into the 80+ temps and do the backs. After getting the first wheel snugged up, I backed out one of the lug nuts then hand turned to count threads. I believe I stopped counting around 12-13, so I think I'm good there.    
    • My fullsize truck is averaging over 26mpg so I'm pretty happy with the increased fuel economy targets. When I had my gas Silverado (2020 5.3) it was averaging 21. Again, for a fullsize truck, that's very different from the 12-15 these things used to get 30 years ago.   Whine all you want, increased MPG is a good thing.
    • That is a fair point, and I think an OBD-first proof is probably the right next step. I agree that the value is not the hardware box by itself. The marketable part would be the software: always-on capture, baseline learning, event reduction, system-specific reports, and alerts. Also agreed that if an OBD device is always plugged in and has local storage, it should not miss the event in the same way that a scanner plugged in after the fact would. The only thing I would not want to assume yet is that an ELM327-class device gives all the late-GM data needed at the rate needed. Standard OBD live data, DTCs, freeze frame, Mode 6, VIN, and calibration information are definitely the right starting point. GDS2 also proves that a lot of useful ECM data can be viewed through the DLC without needing a DTC first. The question I need to test is whether the data needed for a useful GM V8 event report is actually available through the DLC, and at a useful sample rate: - misfire counts / roughness by cylinder - AFM/DFM state - oil pressure and oil temperature - fuel trims - voltage / reset context - U-codes and communication events - calibration / software information - whether these are standard PIDs, enhanced DIDs, Mode 6 data, GDS2-only data, or not available So I think the right benchmark is: 1. Build the OBD-only version first. 2. Keep it plugged in and logging locally. 3. Compare it against GDS2 / freeze frame / HP Tuners or another higher-end logger. 4. Measure which parameters are available and at what update rate. 5. Only justify ECM-side hardware if it captures useful evidence the OBD version cannot. So you may be right: the consumer product might simply be an always-plugged-in OBD event recorder with much better reporting. A question for you: when you say ELM327 devices can already deliver all the data needed, do you mean generic OBD Mode 01 data only, or GM enhanced data as well? For a useful GM V8 report, would generic OBD data be enough, or would you expect the tool to include enhanced items like misfire by cylinder, AFM/DFM state, oil pressure/oil temp, U-codes, and calibration information?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...