Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I started having issues that seem to be related to a grounding problem. I cleaned and secured the ground located on the frame behind the front passenger tire and the ground under the dash on the driver side that seems to be referred to as G218. I inspected the ground under the dash on the passenger side and it was clean and did not seem to have any noticeable problem. I was hoping someone could point me to other ground locations I should inspect or possibly anything else I should look at.

 

Here are the issues I have had in order over the past 2 weeks.

1. I noticed the occasional reset happening and started having some slow starts.  it was time to replace the battery and I noticed the battery caps had pushed up some so I replaced it with another AGM battery.

2 drove about 20 miles got out for about 15 min then drove another 10 miles I went to start the truck no lights no starter no anything. I pulled the key out and tried again the dash lights flickered I cussed tried a third time it started up just fine drove home about 30 min.

3 I cleaned the 2 known problem ground screws went for a 10 minute drive everything worked as expected

4 Drove about 30 minutes stopped for an hour then went for gas everything still working as expected. After getting gas I drove about 5 miles and started into a parking spot and the wheel jerked out of my hand. If i turned right or left the dash lights would flicker the wheel would jerk and things showed signs of a battery disconnect IE clock reset stabil trak popping up but the truck never died. I sat idling for about 10 min and the wheel would jerk when trying to turn. I decided to turn it off and restart the truck. It started as expected and all the issues cleared up enough for me to drive it home about 30 min. once home i started the truck 3 times with no noticeable problem.

I have no mil light coming on but it is asking me to roll the windows up and down like it does when things have been reset

 

Sorry its so long i try to provide as much as i can

2014 GMC Sierra 140k mostly kept in garage and driver a couple of times a week.

 

TIA

 

 

Posted

I tried posting a link to a video on YouTube but it keeps getting blocked. So check out South Main Auto on you tube he has a lot of good videos on Silverado grounding issues. 

  • Like 1
Posted

OEM ground cable seems to have resolved the problem I will know for sure in a day or two.

They are on back order almost everywhere I would stay away from the knockoffs.  I had an oem and knockoff on order the china version was poorly made.

 

Thanks for the responses

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Almost exact symptoms for me as well!!! I have a supposedly ‘exact GM replacement’ on the way from RockAuto. Complete negative cable with current sensor. Other GM original options available but folks on here recommend GM instead of cheaper knockoffs and so far the ideas/suggestions here have been pretty much dead on! My replacement is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Guess I’ll see ..

 

Kudos to all that help with these concerns. Very appreciative!

 

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...