Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello I hope this question hasn't been asked as scrolled around and couldn't find anything on this but what I have is a 09 Chevy Silverado Ltz 1500 4wd with 5.3l and I am adding under glow rock lights and these work in junction with turn signals and brake lights i have the turn signal lights working with the rock lights but not 100% sure where i can connect the one wire i have for the rock lights to the brake light so the rock lights work with brake lights? I think the brake wire is light blue but not exactly sure where it is? I am sorry if this was confusing. Please any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Posted (edited)

Either the green wire (right) or yellow wire (left) run the brake lights in the rear  - just tap into whichever one is closest.

 

Or light blue for the 3rd brake light (CHMSL).

 

EDIT - sounds like the signals have a separate circuit from the stop lamps on those aftermarket lights, so your only choice would be to tap into the 3rd brake light.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted (edited)

Ok that won't be a problem but do you know where I could splice in by any chance? Preferably under the hood somewhere would be ideal but if not its no biggie?i have a wire ran to the back already but i cant find a light blue wire in the cluster under the bed in the back i do see a royal blue wire though. Ok i havent tried the yellow wire yet. The green one with rock lights on turn signal flashes yellow and red when right blinker is on so cant be the green i guess i will try the yellow and see what happens .1738762874733448337476639929792.thumb.jpg.c500622849c96d14c227ec6f62e36d0c.jpg

Edited by Sixth Floor
Posted

I can't remember offhand, but there should be brake light power in either the under hood or interior fuse blocks.

Posted

And just to confirm that's going to be a light blue wire? Would running straight to the brake switch you think that would work?

Posted

I don't know if it's blue up there. You would need to check and make sure power is downstream of the switch, otherwise you will have just a constant 12V there. If it isn't blue, it's probably a good bet that it is NOT switched there. I'm thinking I should tell you to disregard looking up there since that is probably the case. I just can't remember - been a long time since I've done electrical troubleshooting on a 900-series truck.

 

You might have to fish a wire down from the 3rd brake light down through the sheetmetal of the cab - that would be the best way of doing it. Having a snake of some sort would be mandatory, whether an actual wire snake, or something made out of metal coat hangers.

Posted

Ok but it will be light blue wire at the 3rd brake light? i can do that won't be a problem. Thank you for all your help Jsdirt!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I can't tell you with 100% certainty, but I'm FAIRLY certain it will be blue there. Best thing to do is get a test light, then get a helper to hit the brakes while testing.

 

On that note, IF I remember right, on the 900 series trucks the brake switch was KEYED. In other words, the ignition would have to be ON (engine doesn't have to be running) in order for the brake lights to work, so don't let that take you down a rabbit hole. Most vehicles aren't wired that way - every other vehicle I've ever seen the brake switch went straight to battery power, whether the ignition was on, or not.

 

You're welcome, man! Hope everything goes smooth in hooking it up.🍻

Posted

If you do not have a factory trailer brake controller, there is a CMHSL wire taped up under the dash. I believe the wire is orange on these trucks and it should be marked.It is in the aftermarket trailer brake controller bundle. Look it up in gmupfitter.com.

 

It is up by the steering column.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ahh, yep - forgot about that. Tucked between the column and parking brake, taped up very heavily.

Posted (edited)

I did confirm orange wire with test light prior to install and that was the CMHSL. 

Edited by Sixth Floor
Posted

NICE! Glad to hear that! 🙌

 

Thanks for the follow-up. 🍻

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...