Jump to content

Upper Control Arms for Fox 2.0 Coilovers

bayouguy71
 Share

Recommended Posts

bayouguy71 Enthusiast

bayouguy71

Posted
Posted (edited)

I did a search and really didn't see anything that answered my question directly.

2018 with 2.0 Fox Coilovers and 92k miles, I also have 20" wheels with 33's

Ball joints are starting to pop and I am curious what the recommended UCA would be from the group.

Never offroad so I don't need anything crazy.

Replaceable ball joints are not a must but I would like something a little more robust that stock.

Do also need to do the lower arms or are those ball joints replaceable?

 

Also, even with the Fox 2.0's truck is not quite level because I have bags in the back.

Anyone know the proper method for adjusting the Fox's for a little more height?

 

Thanks in advance

Edited by bayouguy71
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, bayouguy71 said:

I am curious what the recommended UCA would be from the group.

Never offroad so I don't need anything crazy.

I went with Motofab UCAs. They have zerk fittings for keeping them greased up.
https://motofablifts.com/i-30558324-17-18-chevy-gmc-silverado-sierra-1500-upper-control-arms.html

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Like 1
bayouguy71 Enthusiast

bayouguy71

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

On the motofab sight it says I may need 1/4 spacers to run my stock 20s, is that for rim rub or tire rub? 

I am running 275/60/20

Edited by bayouguy71
bayouguy71 Enthusiast

bayouguy71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

WOW, I spent the whole weekend off and on trying to figure this out and didn't seem to gain any ground.

I want to keep my stock 20's with the 275-60's but can't figure out for the life of me what UCA's actually work with that setup except for the stock stamped ones that lasted 91k.

I would rather not run spacers if I don't have to but will if needed, I do not want the tires sticking out past the fenders.

 

I was hoping someone had the same set up as I do and could give me real world experience / advice.

MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 3/15/2025 at 8:07 AM, bayouguy71 said:

On the motofab sight it says I may need 1/4 spacers to run my stock 20s, is that for rim rub or tire rub? 

I am running 275/60/20

Mainly for tire rub. It was really bad for me until I put on the spacers.
In your case, with 20s, it may be for the rims, for me it was the tires.

 

On 3/17/2025 at 10:25 AM, bayouguy71 said:

WOW, I spent the whole weekend off and on trying to figure this out and didn't seem to gain any ground.

I want to keep my stock 20's with the 275-60's but can't figure out for the life of me what UCA's actually work with that setup except for the stock stamped ones that lasted 91k.

I would rather not run spacers if I don't have to but will if needed, I do not want the tires sticking out past the fenders.

 

I was hoping someone had the same set up as I do and could give me real world experience / advice.

Small spacers - 1/4" really do not add a lot of detrimental effects to the overall suspension - if any.
A 1/4" spacer will not poke the tires out too much.
I installed a 1/2" spacer and the results were great.
See the first part of the video:

 

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Like 1
bayouguy71 Enthusiast

bayouguy71

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update, being that most aftermarket UCA's are meant for 2.5"+ of lift / level I went ahead and ordered the MOOG premium UCA's, my stockers lasted 92k so....

While working on the front end I went ahead and got lower BG's, inner / outer tie rods for them to install.

I have the wheel bearings as well and with 92k and the front end already apart am debating having those installed as well.

 

By the time I am done I will have a mostly new front end given my Fox2.0 struts only have a few thousand miles on them.

 

Back to the spacers topic, how thick can you go and still use the factory studs?

I think that MikeBMW stated he did 1/2".

What have others done?

 

Edited by bayouguy71
  • Like 1
HoosierZ Enthusiast

HoosierZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

7 hours ago, bayouguy71 said:

 

Back to the spacers topic, how thick can you go and still use the factory studs?

I think that MikeBMW stated he did 1/2".

What have others done?

 

I have 15mm (almost 5/8”) spacers that I use with my stock wheels. They came with ET (extended thread) lug nuts that have 10mm of extra thread engagement over the stock lugs.

 

IMG_4174.thumb.jpeg.e504fbeffad2156b3a949eda3a29162a.jpeg

Edited by HoosierZ
  • Like 1
bayouguy71 Enthusiast

bayouguy71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, HoosierZ said:

 

I have 15mm (almost 5/8”) spacers that I use with my stock wheels. They came with ET (extended thread) lug nuts that have 10mm of extra thread engagement over the stock lugs.

 

IMG_4174.thumb.jpeg.e504fbeffad2156b3a949eda3a29162a.jpeg

Thanks, those are intriguing, just for the lugnuts alone!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...