Oil Consumption

riddler · May 27

1 hour ago, Chuck FB said:

What has your oil change interval typically been in miles. Also are you hauling/towing heavy or lightly loaded, and speed would be a factor as well as high speeds mean more hp being used to force the brick through the air.

I can't claim this as its not as if I have seen an L8T piston beside an older series of GM engine but the theme these days is thin rings and in some cases smaller holes through the piston within the oil control ring groove and due to that it seems more prone to those small passages plugging. And I think GDI has something to do with that as well with increased carbon being created. Put that together with perhaps not a short enough oil change interval and it catches up to the engine.

Of course I am changing the oil and filter well before manufacture recommends. Driving style doesn't matter. No modern engine should burn significant oil in between regular oil changes. I am going to try Valvoline next oil change as per recommended here. Thanks.

Chuck FB · May 28

10 minutes ago, riddler said:

Of course I am changing the oil and filter well before manufacture recommends. Driving style doesn't matter. No modern engine should burn significant oil in between regular oil changes. I am going to try Valvoline next oil change as per recommended here. Thanks.

I couldn't tell until I asked the question as after all there are plenty of vehicle owners out there who go well past the count down of a OLM and on some brands their system is simply reading the odometer and its killing their engine, to the opposite view point like yourself who is right on top of oil change intervals by the sounds of it, and those all in between.

As to the modern engines, one of the problems is the theme of going to low tension piston rings to reduce friction and increase fuel mileage as they can have issues with letting more oil past the rings so by design they are more prone to using oil. However like you said, your engine was going good and then that all changed and its using some oil. I don't have that many miles on my L8T yet and in miles the furthest I have gone on an oil change is 2500 miles and I estimate ( parked in the exact location for oil level checks ) that the oil went down about 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. I haven't been towing and drive conservatively but so far I am very pleased with that result, will it remain that way ... well there's the million dollar question !.

Hopefully as you run some OCI's of the Valvoline R&P, report back to let us know what the results are.

PunchT37 · May 28

These newer engines have low tension rings. They also have a much more narrow expander ring than in the past. I would try what newdude said. Expander ring might have trash/sludge in it. Oil can`t drain back back in correct amounts. Run some cleaning oil for a while.

Chuck FB · May 28

46 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

These newer engines have low tension rings. They also have a much more narrow expander ring than in the past. I would try what newdude said. Expander ring might have trash/sludge in it. Oil can`t drain back back in correct amounts. Run some cleaning oil for a while.

I wonder what a good recommendation would be for run time in hours or miles per drain interval as one initially switches over to R&P, I am only assuming caution ( certainly on a higher mileage engine ) even with lower miles but having possible plugging of the oil ring and wanting to clear that up as fast as possible I doubt one would want to run very long OCI in order to get what I assume is the best action off the start when the oil is new as I would think those additives would get used up as they bring sludge/carbon into the oil solution.

I also wonder if there is any chance that the injectors are getting a bit dirty and not spraying properly and causing some fuel dilution as that would not be helpful as far as oil usage, if a PEA type injector cleaner should be used. Of course for experimental purposes it would be nice to stick to one experiment first to see if that changes anything although if fuel dilution is happening, one would want to address that sooner rather than later as well.

riddler · May 28

2 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

I couldn't tell until I asked the question as after all there are plenty of vehicle owners out there who go well past the count down of a OLM and on some brands their system is simply reading the odometer and its killing their engine, to the opposite view point like yourself who is right on top of oil change intervals by the sounds of it, and those all in between.

As to the modern engines, one of the problems is the theme of going to low tension piston rings to reduce friction and increase fuel mileage as they can have issues with letting more oil past the rings so by design they are more prone to using oil. However like you said, your engine was going good and then that all changed and its using some oil. I don't have that many miles on my L8T yet and in miles the furthest I have gone on an oil change is 2500 miles and I estimate ( parked in the exact location for oil level checks ) that the oil went down about 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. I haven't been towing and drive conservatively but so far I am very pleased with that result, will it remain that way ... well there's the million dollar question !.

Hopefully as you run some OCI's of the Valvoline R&P, report back to let us know what the results are.

I quess only time will tell if this motor lasts 200k+ with the massive oil consumption. Thats where our opinions differ.

PunchT37 · May 28

I`ve been doing 3000 mile oci on mine since new. 600 miles on factory drain. `25, L84, 5.3. All these new engines need cleaner oil than ever before.

One of my oil changes had a sheered out of spec condition already at 3100 miles. 5w30 Valvoline Advanced. Sooo...

riddler · May 28

1 hour ago, PunchT37 said:

These newer engines have low tension rings. They also have a much more narrow expander ring than in the past. I would try what newdude said. Expander ring might have trash/sludge in it. Oil can`t drain back back in correct amounts. Run some cleaning oil for a while.

I do have a catch can on it also, yes the piston ring/piston design seem to be inferior. Im hoping for longevity. 200k+ without engine problems.

PunchT37 · May 28

2 minutes ago, riddler said:

I do have a catch can on it also, yes the piston ring/piston design seem to be inferior. Im hoping for longevity. 200k+ without engine problems.

Keep the oil clean and give it an Italian tune up once in a while.

riddler · May 28

2 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

Keep the oil clean and give it an Italian tune up once in a while.

Ya it sucks having to add oil and contantly check it. What do you want for $75k

PunchT37 · May 28

5 minutes ago, riddler said:

Ya it sucks having to add oil and contantly check it. What do you want for $75k

All these new engines burn more oil than ever before. Not just GM. You can send a thank you letter to your government.

Edited May 28 by PunchT37

Chuck FB · May 28

5 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

I`ve been doing 3000 mile oci on mine since new. 600 miles on factory drain. `25, L84, 5.3. All these new engines need cleaner oil than ever before.

One of my oil changes had a sheered out of spec condition already at 3100 miles. 5w30 Valvoline Advanced. Sooo...

Unfortunately it seems to be somewhat of a theme these days with oil sheering out of grade and I can see where lets say a Ford 5.0 due to the very long timing chains or the 2.7/3.5 with their timing chains and the turbo not being kind to the oil, but seems odd that these GM short timing chain non turbo engines are having grade sheer issues. I know one reason off the bat and that is the Dexos oils are hardly over 10cst@100c so they don't have far to fall before they are out of the 30 grade spec as the Euro oils start out in that 11.5 if not higher range. All about the fuel economy and be dammed the best protection for the engine.

I've been using mostly the Mobil Truck and SUV 5W-30 so far but with Nicks help to set me up with Amsoil I have some stock of the SS 0W-40 on hand now and will make the switch to that on my next oil change. No, its not Dexos 1 gen 3 exactly but I believe it is Dexos R compatible ( not licensed, but compatible with the LSPI compatibility ). I am hoping by making the switch early on in the engines life that I might prevent the oil control ring clogging issue and of course still maintain a short OCI to do my best to make the engine happy. Would GM Canada have an issue warranty wise with this oil, I fully expect so as we don't have the consumer protection the same as the USA has. With a 15cst@100c it certainly will have more fuel dilution viscosity protection before it ever thinks of falling way down to below a 30 grade.

riddler · May 28

2 minutes ago, Chuck FB said:

Unfortunately it seems to be somewhat of a theme these days with oil sheering out of grade and I can see where lets say a Ford 5.0 due to the very long timing chains or the 2.7/3.5 with their timing chains and the turbo not being kind to the oil, but seems odd that these GM short timing chain non turbo engines are having grade sheer issues. I know one reason off the bat and that is the Dexos oils are hardly over 10cst@100c so they don't have far to fall before they are out of the 30 grade spec as the Euro oils start out in that 11.5 if not higher range. All about the fuel economy and be dammed the best protection for the engine.

I've been using mostly the Mobil Truck and SUV 5W-30 so far but with Nicks help to set me up with Amsoil I have some stock of the SS 0W-40 on hand now and will make the switch to that on my next oil change. No, its not Dexos 1 gen 3 exactly but I believe it is Dexos R compatible ( not licensed, but compatible with the LSPI compatibility ). I am hoping by making the switch early on in the engines life that I might prevent the oil control ring clogging issue and of course still maintain a short OCI to do my best to make the engine happy. Would GM Canada have an issue warranty wise with this oil, I fully expect so as we don't have the consumer protection the same as the USA has. With a 15cst@100c it certainly will have more fuel dilution viscosity protection before it ever thinks of falling way down to below a 30 grade.

I like your point the question is do I make the non dexos oi change now or wait until the warranty is up? If I wait, damage could occur.

PunchT37 · May 28

Once the metal is gone, it doesn`t come back. Most fear the warranty. They will make a change after. BUT, the wear is already there.

riddler · May 28

2 minutes ago, PunchT37 said:

Once the metal is gone, it doesn`t come back. Most fear the warranty. They will make a change after. BUT, the wear is already there.

True

Chuck FB · May 28

14 minutes ago, riddler said:

I like your point the question is do I make the non dexos oi change now or wait until the warranty is up? If I wait, damage could occur.

I don't know if you were aware or maybe Newdude explained it, that the Valvoline Restore and Protect is not a Dexos licensed oil, however the new Mobil Advanced Clean is Dexos licensed but I don't know that its been out long enough to have a handle on how it compares to the Valvoline R&P.

I will say that one of the local Chev dealer advisors pissed me off when I asked about the 2 complementary oil changes since I haven't used them and he informs me that is a GM company deal and not the dealer as I thought I could pass them over to a friend so he could make use of them ... ok so that was a no and that is fine. However then he sees I haven't been bringing my truck in for oi changes there and jumps on that fact to tell me a story about bla bla bla customer that had an engine issue and was not covered on warranty because he didn't have dealer proof that he had been having the oil changed. A tactic used by certain personnel at dealers to scare the customer into NOT going anywhere else or doing ones own maintenance but to always bring it to the dealer to retain that warranty. I was also getting the calls from the dealer pushing the 300.00 oil change package that includes checking to make sure the battery is still under the hood and to rotate ones tires. Pushy sales and scare tactics go over like a lead balloon in my world.

If the 6.2 can use 0W-40 just fine as per that engine bearing failure theme, certainly the 6.6 should not have reason to complain and this one oil covers everything I am after as far as flow for cold weather here in western Canada to heavy towing if or when I do any of that in hot weather.

Having said all that, I know where your coming from with warranty and every person will have a comfort level when it comes to what they decide to do if they in fact are thinking of using an oil that isn't blessed by the GM gods !.