Jump to content

NAV and 6 disk changer in a Silverado


Recommended Posts

Posted
I have been reading some your comments on adding a Navigation unit to various GM trucks and SUV's. I have tried some of the part #'s and they appear to be discountinued the changer in particular. asfar as rewiring is there more than the 3 wires to the remote changer?also is there a nonlux INR nav or its just the TNR ver. only?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

There is a lux and a non-lux nav unit for both the INR and the TNR and also there is an INR model with its own internal amps for the non-Bose setup.

 

There are 6 wires from the changer to the headunit, 3 wires (audio left, audio right, and audio commom)that connect into the 12 pin connector and 3 wires (Power, ground, and data bus) that get spliced into the wires on the 24 pin connector.

If your adding the Nav unit then there is a VSS wire that gets added to the gauge cluster harness and ran to the 12 pin connector on the nav unit.

  • Replies 923
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
Ok… I went over this post and this is what I think I need…

 

I just purchased (Today) a 2004 Envoy XUV with the 1SC package and UB1 radio. I want to install the TNR…

 

What I need is:

10377287 nav unit

15135178 GPS Antenna.

 

If I want to use the other system I need

1037751 nav unit

15135178 GPS Antenna

Amp

 

Is this correct?

 

Thanks

Steve

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

The nav P/N's are the correct ones, but I don't know if that is the right antenna for your Envoy. That is the fullsize platform (Sierra, Silverado, Yukon, etc.) antenna, it will still work but it may not have the right mounting bracket on it for the Envoy's and Trailblazer's.

Posted
Does anybody have the code and placement of where the vss wire goes (cluster-nav)is it a splice in on both ends?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

The one end is spliced in behind the gauge cluster to the dark green wire with a white tracer, it is in position A4 on the gauge cluster connector.

The other end goes to the 12 pin connector on the nav headunit in the "E" position.

 

If you don't have a slave device (I.E. XM, Onstar, CD changer, RSA) then you won't have a harness that connects to the 12 pin connector and you will have to get a connector to fit that socket.

Posted

I just wanted to post pictures of my newly installed nav HU, along with the aux 6 cd changer in my '04 Tahoe. Vehicle orginally came with the 6 cd HU which I swapped out. Anyways, I would like to thank this forum for the information I was able to obtain in order to move along with my project. :banghead:

 

Parts used for non-lux Bose amp setup:

 

10377287 2005 touch-screen nav--------------------> $1624.87

15135178 GPS antenna-------------------------------> $47.59

15312903 Harness for aux 6 cd changer------------> $24.82

10390370 v. 3.0 nav DVD----------------------------> $124.95

??? (2005 6 cd changer out of an Escalade)--------> $295.00

Install from Audio/Video shop------------------------> $300.00

 

PROJECT TOTAL---------------------------------------> $2417.23

 

 

gm_nav.jpg

Posted
I just wanted to post pictures of my newly installed nav HU, along with the aux 6 cd changer in my '04 Tahoe. Vehicle orginally came with the 6 cd HU which I swapped out. Anyways, I would like to thank this forum for the information I was able to obtain in order to move along with my project. :seeya:

 

Parts used for non-lux Bose amp setup:

 

10377287 2005 touch-screen nav--------------------> $1624.87

15135178 GPS antenna-------------------------------> $47.59

15312903 Harness for aux 6 cd changer------------> $24.82

10390370 v. 3.0 nav DVD----------------------------> $124.95

??? (2005 6 cd changer out of an Escalade)--------> $295.00

Install from Audio/Video shop------------------------> $300.00

 

PROJECT TOTAL---------------------------------------> $2417.23

 

 

gm_nav.jpg

 

 

 

 

Great job :banghead:

Posted

Looks great... I just started to get everything together for my 2004 Envoy XUV. I hope the GPS Antenna will work for my unit. Does anyone know if I need another antenna for the xm to work?

Posted
Looks great... I just started to get everything together for my 2004 Envoy XUV. I hope the GPS Antenna will work for my unit. Does anyone know if I need another antenna for the xm to work?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

The XM and GPS antennas are 2 different antennas, The XM one is allready mounted on the roof if you have XM. The GPS antenna will get mounted under the dash pad behind the radio.

Posted

I have an 04 Denali with Nav (bought it in September 2003). My system lets me select the 4 equalizer modes and midrange, but I haven't seen the noise-cancelling feature. Do I have the Lux version? I'm away from the car for a while and can't check for the Y91 code...thanks for any help

Posted
Hey on the y91 amp swap is it a straight swap or is there wiring mods to the harness? like the adding the 6 disc changer.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

There are wiring changes that are made at the amp connection, plus the addition of a data bus wire.

Posted
I have an 04 Denali with Nav (bought it in September 2003).  My system lets me select the 4 equalizer modes and midrange, but I haven't seen the noise-cancelling feature.  Do I have the Lux version?  I'm away from the car for a while and can't check for the Y91 code...thanks for any help

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

The lux version should have 4 audio setting like: normal, driver, rear, and spacious. along with the normal base, treble, midrange, balace and fader.

The lux version also has a SOUND compensated volume whereas the non-lux has a SPEED compensated volume and five preset EQ settings plus a custom setting.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,313 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...