Clay Bar.......once you start,

04-silver · May 28, 2004

I'm thinking/wanting to do this Zaino kit thing but I'm wondering when you first/start clay will you forever be waxing?

I thinking that claying must wear down the clear coat atleast some and therefore instead of having a 1/100th of an inch of clear coat you now have say 1/150 of clear coat and must wax to get back to the 1/100th.

I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself properly but Im thinking once you first do claying you must always wax to build up the protection back up.

Also, not being experienced with an orbit buffer (B & D WP900 $29.00) would I be better off buffing by hand? (paint burn/damaging)

All this started by one of those "came outa nowhere %#$@*&$ shopping carts"

Received two orange marks, should be able to rub/buff off and one 3" scratch to the primer..........rats, on the tail gate.

Without a word of a lie, the one and only time I actually drove into a parking stall.

thanks

John

lrymal · May 28, 2004

You are making it more complicated that it is. All the claybar does is remove old wax, old junk, old debris that is stuck to the clear coat that covers the paint. The claybar pulls this mess out, suspends it, and then polishes the clear coat.

After you are finished, take it to the carwash and rinse it well, very well. You should now have a very shiny vehicle as the clear coat is exposed with no gunk covering it.

Waxing is optional. Optional, but certainly desireable. All the wax will do is help shed mud and dirty rain. When you take it back to the car wash when the vehicle is dirty, the wax will continue to shed the gunk.

After the life of the wax has become exhausted, gunk will tend to stick to the clear coat. If you don't wash the vehicle, the gunk will end up embedding itself into the clear coat to a certain extent, provided you don't do weekly washings. The process will then repeat itself.

One shouldn't need to clay bar often. Perhaps twice yearly, if that much. And even that much might be unnecessary.

Soooo, just clay bar, rinse, wax, do weekly washings. Re-wax when the skin is not shedding junk well. If you feel gritty skin after doing the re-wax, then it is time to clay bar again.

04-silver · May 29, 2004

Thanks Irymal

I may have over analysed this but when in doubt ask.

John

lrymal · May 29, 2004

Yeah, no kidding! I've got all kinds of questions on these boards.

Some advice if you have never clayed a vehicle before. PRACTICE on something first, such as a washer, freezer, refridgerator. Funny that no one has ever taken me up on it, but that is what I did.

04-silver · May 29, 2004

I've noticed the pratice part on other posts by you.

Good idea actually, better to remove the shine from a wash machine...........lol

Can't decide between the Mothers Kit or Zaino, dollars or quality??

John

hcvone · May 29, 2004

Clay is non abrasive, the only way clay "could" hurt your paint is if you do not use enough lube, or you drop the clay bar and it picks up dirt. If you go the Zaino route you can "wax" 2-3 times a year and your truck will look great, no matter what wax product you use claying will help any wax last longer.

lrymal · May 29, 2004

I've noticed the pratice part on other posts by you.

Good idea actually, better to remove the shine from a wash machine...........lol

Can't decide between the Mothers Kit or Zaino, dollars or quality??

Oh yes, practise on a large appliance with metalic doors and sides. The washer is a great victim. But, the clay bar will not dull its shine at all.

I don't think any brand is superior. And lubrication is the key. There is a bit of learning associated which is why I say practice on a large appliance. When you do this for the first time, you will think "My God, what have I done?" Then it will begin doing its magic. You cannot spray enough lubrication.

The lubrication can be any liquid type cleaner, although I have been scolded for saying that in the past. When I have applied the claybar technique, I'm not interested in preserving the wax since the wax is going to be removed or thinned anyway during the process. You don't have to pay high $$$$$$ for a particular brand version of clay bar replacement lube. Windex, 409, any type of liquid water-based cleaner is fine. I prefer streak-free Windex or 409's glass cleaner. Obviously, these would replenish the lubrication that is included with the clay bar kit.

Actually, now that I think about it, I got the Windex idea from the local body shop. When I saw them applying the clay bar to a newly painted vehicle to get rid of over spray, I thought they were NUTS. I was so suprised at the simply amazing result.

After you get the clay bar technique down, and you start seeing how great the results are, you becoming a cleaning fool. About the only thing that will slow you down is your body. Am talking about your human body. You are doing a lot of "exercise".