Jump to content

Why Craftsman push mowers are junk


SnakeEyeSS

Recommended Posts

Posted

Our last two push mowers we bougth new were Murray's, both lasted over 5 years, and they saw much more use. That's what brand we will probably be going back to. We went to craftsman because we had a craftsman riding mower that was a beast after 13 years of use(third owners, grandma gave it to use when she bought a new one, she bought it 5 years old).

 

The briggs and straton engine is okay, but the "automatic throttle control had problem(it's a Quantum 6.0 HP). 22" deck, high wheel. The thing barely tracks straight anymore.

 

Here is a pic:

broke.jpg

 

that is the rear right engine mounting point. the metal bent and broke clean off. it still mows, but the engine hops all over the place while running. notice the engine plastic engine sheel is missing?

after we took it off once it never went back on right. If it was one problem, maybe, but this thing is one problem after another. I'm goning to JB wld it soon to see how that works.

Posted

Wow

 

My parents (divorced) both have identical 12.5 hp gold series craftsman riders and I mowed with them mostly and I am a heavy guy and beat the snot out of them and they keep ticking.

 

We used to pop the clutch to pop wheelies with them, lol, back in the day. :D I can't forget about when we used to have tractor pulls with the neighbors. :thumbs:

Posted

This goes in the get what you pay for category. Get a mower with an aluminum deck and you will have a 10 to 15 year mower . John Deere ,TORO , Honda, LawnBoy,Kubota are a few manufaturers that make models with cast aluminum decks.I am assuming you are talking about a walk behind mower.

Posted

:thumbs: I am sorry but you need to get rid of the briggs and scrape iron. You need a jap engine on your mower......

 

I have a John Deere with 21'' aluminum deck and Kawasaki engine.....starts first pull every time and it is 10 years old. :D

Posted

My first mower was a cheap "Yard Machine" powered by a Biggs & Straton engine. I got it because I wanted a simple mower that had a "good" engine. The B&S engine was spitting oil into the cylinder the first year. I threw it away and got a Honda.

Posted

My dad is now looking at a Murray that is only different in that it was manufactured by Murray, same size, engine, configuration. I think he's getting that, its $178. I'll shop around to see what we can get for $200 from TORO, Honda, etc etc.

 

 

well, any of you guys know good sites to price these for? I guess I'll use Lowe's and HD

Posted

I've been running a Deere for about 2.5 years now, I couldn't be happier.

 

This is the model

 

I used to be the "landscape manager" for 7 of the houses my grandpa owns in our 'hood, so I wanted a decent mower, and got it :chevy:

 

I only do mine now, so I don't need soomething quite so big, but it helps. I'm really picky about my lawns, I'm always tending to them, trying to make them look better. I'd really like one of the Lawn Boy mulchers, that'd be great :thumbs:

 

I don't know if you're willing to spend the time to make it look good though, lol. I just got kinda hooked :D

Posted
well, any of you guys know good sites to price these for? I guess I'll use Lowe's and HD

Those places are more expensive around here than the mom and pop shops. I got mine at a local mower/chainsaw place. Two months later I found an even better price at a local "AA Rentals" shop. I think the best thing to do is go to the manufacture's website and look up local retailers. Then just call around.

Posted

I have a John Deere JX75 and couldn't be happier. I have a bigger yard, so I could justify the cost ($800 locally). They make less expensive mowers that are just as good, but I'd be willing to bet that I'll get at least 15 years out of this mower. Buddy of mine had 2 of these in his mowing business. 50 hours a week per mower. Had them for 5 years and sold 'em for $475 in "like-new" shape. They're incredibly rugged, and won't crap out on ya.

Posted

My parents have 3/4 of an acre. They've had a Toro 32" rear-engine ride-on for the last 15+ years. It leaks a tiny bit of oil and the battery NEVER was right, but the darn thing runs good. They've been through 2 walk-behinds in that time (use both, depends on the time of year and how lazy the person mowing is) and a 3rd was nearing the end when they got the ride-on.

 

The 2 walk-behinds? A Craftsman with a Tecumseh engine and a K-Gro (K-Mart brand, made by American Yard Products) with a B&S engine. The K-Gro is the current one, have had it for 10 years we figure. Deck is still good. The Craftsman had a seized engine (someone forgot to put oil in it), I pulled it apart, fixed it but neglected to properly torque the rod bolts, popped the rod through the block on the 3rd or 4th use. Neither one had/has issues with deck rust.

 

Anyway, I think I'd look at Toro or any AYP-made mower.

Posted

I have a 70s Craftsman mower my parents call the beast.. Can't keep ane exhaust on it but if you put it at the top of a tree and started it, the tree would be history.

 

I will not buy murray.. They suck with their auto throttle.... I have a sears lawn mower that I have to pick up at a friends house that he can not get to start. Well to make a long story short if he took care of it then it would run. Carb is junked up and will not start. I have about 4 lawn mowers now in the house. I guess I should sell some of them.. But the beast is a classic.. I can not run it around were we have moved to because people would call the cops with no exhaust on it.. :thumbs:

Posted

how is self propelled going nowdays? My dad never wanted anothr after it went out on a previous mower had, wihch meant pushing around the extra weight.

Posted

My folks had a lawn boy single speed self propel from around the time I was born (mid-late 70's) until my brother sold it to a neighbor just before moving to Vegas 5yrs ago...and it still ran. They now have an 87ish lawn boy electric start that does ok. I've got a lawn boy gold series 6.5hp 3 speed that works rather well. No major problems with any of them for the ages.

 

This spring I did go out and get a Lesco 48" commercial walk behind though as I have my place, my parents, and my grandma's to worry about. A great machine so far, but a bit more than most people would need. It made the most sense for my money and needs, being that whatever I bought was going to be stored in the trailer I inherited from my uncle. No I just hitch up and go...or should I say mow.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...