4 light relay wire lay out

[pastorscott]

o4 burb have a 4 wirw relay and want to wire for 4 head light on when in high beam. does anyone know the proper way to do this ??

 

 

scott

[DernMooseAk]

Try this.

 

 

HIGH-BEAM HEADLIGHT RELAY

Now! Drive with both low beams and high beams on!

Keeps low beams on when you turn on the high beams

Improves visibility and safety by increasing amount and intensity of light and by improving the spread pattern

Easy 10-minute installation.

 

1999 - 2003 GMC Suburban High-beam Headlight Relay (with tan and green headlight wires) Each ZX491456W $28.99

1999 - 2003 GMC Suburban High-beam Headlight Relay (with purple or yellow headlight wires) Each ZX491455Y $50.99

 

Found this at JC Whitney

[builderpaul]

There are many threads with pictures and diagrams on this mod. The easyest, on the 04, is a 12volt- 1 amp diode (2 for 28cents) jumped between the #85 pin of the low and high beam relays. These relays are in the underhood fuse box and are clearly labled. Just pull out each relay, stick the diode into the #85 pins (band side towards the highbeam) reinstall the relays. I did mine 4 months ago and it is working fine.

[lrymal]

There are many threads with pictures and diagrams on this mod. .....

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Nobody uses the search engine.... The moderator might as well remove that option. The mod can be done for less than a buck plus your time. In the meantime:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...topic=26665&hl=

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...=26712&hl=diode

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcn...g86179#msg86179

 

THIS IS FOR THE 2003 - 2004 (PLBLY 2005, ALSO) MODELS:

 

[willscary]

Irymal,

 

I have read these threads, and considered the aftermarket ones also. I am very good at construction trades, but know nothing about electronics. If the parts are only about a quarter at Rat Shack, would you be willing to make the piece and send it to us for say...$10 each? If you could make it in such a way that it would be a simple "plug and play" deal, you could have a decent enterprise, and we could do the installation. If it was made Willscary proof (idiot proof), I am sure many of us on this forum would be happy to pay the cash!

[Stocklook]

Here's what I did and worked fine on my 02, and all i did was went to radio shach and got a small box and put the relay in it and siliconed it up "Weather proof"

 

I have an 04 now and will try it again

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/Tech%20Page/quad...%20present.html

[mcreyaufmiller]

Thanks for the link. I was going to buy a harness from E-bay for $15, but I would rather make my own.

 

Mike

[lrymal]

I am sure many of us on this forum would be happy to pay the cash!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

It would be cheaper just to buy the commercial kit by the time you get bits and pieces to make a marketable and risk-free product. But, in the meantime:

 

1) Ratshack diode purchase - $0.30 diode

2) Open hood

3) Open fuse box top (driver's side)

4) Remove low beam relay

5) Remove high beam relay

 

(referring to photo a couple of messages back)

 

6) Secure bar-side of diode to pin #85 of highbeam relay. (Yeah, for you purists, I'm not going to drag anode and cathode verbage in here)

7) Secure other end of diode to pin #85 of lowbeam relay

8) Plug the two relays back in.

9) Replace fuse top, close hood. Watch evening football game. After game, go for a joy ride and bask in your BRIGHT lights.

[sperry]

Some things are obvious, but just in case, put some heat-shrink tubing over the entire diode - bare leads! (clear, so you can see the band).

[willscary]

Thanks Irymal!

[sperry]

The 02's (and likely a few years earlier), can also do this with diodes, but connections are in a different physical location.

[sperry]

This was posted on CAFCNA by the member: AutoWorker on 6-18-02

 

For the 02 Avalanche.

 

Want your low beam to stay on with your high beams? Simple 45-minute mod will do that. Does not affect the automatic or manual switch function. Also keeps the dome override switch feature of the headlamps.

 

Tools needed (beyond what you probably already have)

3 to 4 feet of 16 gauge wire (yellow colored insulator preferred)

Soldering iron and solder (Don’t care for squeeze on connectors)

Ring style wire connector

3/8 diameter heat shrink

Zip ties

 

Steps;

1) Disconnect the battery negative terminal (MUST DO THIS, No short cuts)

 

2) Remove the left side (drivers side) fender to cowl bracket. It is a curved bracket that goes across part of the fuse box in the engine compartment. Four bolts, two on the cowl and two on the fender hold it on.

 

3) Remove the cover from the fuse box in the engine compartment.

 

4) Carefully release the tabs holding the main body of the fuse box and lift it up.

 

5) Tilt the main body of the fuse box so you can see the junction blocks on the bottom.

 

6) Locate the green colored block (Block C4 for those with a service manual)

 

7) Unbolt the green block.

 

Locate the two yellow wires tied together. They go into pin B3, you should find two purple wires in the next pin location (pin B4)

 

9) Cut the zip ties holding the wires together (need room to work)

 

10) Remove the pin safety for the yellow wires you just found. The safety is a blue piece of plastic used to prevent the wires from coming out of the connector. It should just slide out.

 

11) Using an ice pick carefully release the locking tab holding the yellow wires to the green connector. You should now have the two yellow wires connected to a single metal connector.

 

12) Carefully strip about ½ an inch of the insulation away from the yellow wires. You need to be a close as you can to the metal connector. Don’t cut the wires. Don’t remove the metal connector. This was the hardest part of the whole project.

 

13) Strip some insulation off the end of the new wire and wrap it around the two exposed wires.

 

14) Solder the wires together. Should have three wire now soldered together, the two yellow wires and the new wire.

 

15) Slide the heat shrink over the new solder joint. Do not cover or impair the metal connector. Shrink it.

 

16) Reinstall the yellow wires into the green connector (same location it came from) Make sure the pin snaps into place.

 

17) Put the blue safety pin back.

 

18) Reinsert the green connector into the main block (check the orientation should only go one way.) Bolt the connector back to the main block

 

19) Zip tie up any necessary wires.

 

20) Set the main block back into its bracket. Make sure the unconnected end of the new wire comes out of the block. I used the opening between the block and the battery. The block should snap into place.

 

21) Put the cover back on the block.

 

22) Reinstall the metal fender to cowl bracket

 

23) Find a suitable ground ( I used the bracket just below the alternator, Used bolt holding the battery jumper point to the engine block) to connect the other end of the new wire. Shorten the wire as necessary (leave some play) and connect the ring connector to the new wire (solder the wire to the connector is ideal). Attach the wire to ground.

 

24) Reconnect the battery.

 

25) Done, Enjoy.

 

This mod tied the low beams negative side to a permanent ground. The negative side is switched on or off to switch between high and low. Still get low only function but whan you switch to high beams the lows stay lit.

 

Two items of concern. The relay powering the lamps and the fuses. No information on what the relay is rated (with all four lamps on around 28 amps are being drawn). Also the fuses are 15 amps each and were originally indented to power only one lamp at a time.

[lrymal]

For 2003 and up.... For 2003 and up.... For 2003 and up.... For 2003 and up.... For 2003 and up.... For 2003 and up....

Y'all, if you are wanting a variation of the DIODE project, try connecting directly to the wiring by the BCM connector. Look this over and if you feel confident, give it a try. By doing this project near the BCM connector, you will not have to install a diode directly on the two relays in the under-hood fuse box. You are really doing the same thing, but elsewhere:

 

---------------

MAIN IDENTIFIERS:

 

* BCM CONNECTOR

* PINK/WHITE WIRE

* BLACK/WHITE WIRE

 

HERE WE GO:

Ok, pages 8-698 and 8-699 of the Silverado Service Manual (2003). BCM connector. There are two 24 pin connectors, with 12 pins on one row-A. 12 pins on one row-B.

 

A SIDE:

On pin A4, there is a Pink/White (A4) wire. This is the HEADLAMP LOW BEAM RELAY CONTROL. Tap into this Pink/White wire with the diode (not band end).

 

B SIDE:

On pin B1, there is a Black/White (B1) wire. This is the HEADLAMP HIGH BEAM RELAY CONTROL. Tap into this Black/White wire with the diode (banded end).

 

On page 8-693 of the same manual is a schematic. You will see the same Pink/White and Black/White relay connections at the left middle of the page. These are the relay legs that we solder to in the original under-hood fuse box project.

 

Summary:

Two wires by BCM connector: BLACK/WHITE (B1) and PINK/WHITE (A4)

Diode connecting the two wires, banded end of diode to BLACK/WHITE.

 

DISCLAIMER: I ain't responsible for anyone frying their wiring harness and this version of getting the 4 lights illuminated has NOT been tested or tried. We are at the mercy of the 2003 manual and its accuracy. Since I personally purchased this manual without a subscription to updates, I have NO IDEA if there has been updates or corrections to the manual.

 

There...........! Please don't fry anything. Let me know how this works.