76BBSub

96 Vortec · October 22, 2001

Thanks for the reply.

What brand of rotors and pads should I use. I checked out carparts.com but wasn't real sure what to look for. Is there any specific brand I should use?

Would a set of replacement rotors and pads from O'reilys or some other parts store be an acceptable replacement?

76BBSub · October 23, 2001

For brake pads I recommend Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. Don't buy the Z-rated, they require a little more heat to work effectively, I doubt you'll notice much difference even when they are heated, and they may not even be available for your truck.

For the rotors, I would try O'Reilly or Car Quest, maybe Auto Zone, but see if any of them come with some kind of warranty. I never replaced mine, sold the truck right after the warranty ran out. Make sure you clean the surfaces really well with a green scotchbrite and brake parts cleaner to get any oils and metal particles off or they'll mess up your new pads.

Also, you will need to put some wheel bearings in your new rotors. You can tap the old ones out of your old rotors, they may be OK, but it can be a crappy job sometimes. I would recommend new front wheel bearings, especially if you haven't repacked them, but I forget how many miles you have on your truck...anyway, it's something to consider. For bearings I recommend anything that's made in the USA, which is usually Timken, CR (Chicago Rawhide), or the ones from Car Quest. Spend the $12-$15 for a bearing installer to tap them in with, or Auto Zone or Pep Boys will loan you one through their Loan-A-Tool program.

Post if you have any questions, and let us know how it turns out.

Jeff

96 Vortec · October 23, 2001

Are those pads available at most parts stores or are they a special order item?

I have never repacked the bearings. My truck has 75k on it. I also don't know how to do it. I have been told it isn't a hard thing to do, I just prefer not to do that sort of thing without having someone around who has done it before.

How do you mean clean everything with a green scotchbrite? Is that just a steel wool pad?

76BBSub · October 24, 2001

The particular pads I recommended are available only at Auto Zone, but they should be a stock item at the store.

Scotch brite is the "synthetic" steel wool pads you see at the auto parts or even grocery store. They are comparable to steel wool, but if you choose steel wool make sure you get all the little pieces of metal off before hanging the new rotors.

Packing the bearings is pretty easy, and you MUST either repack your old bearings or pack and install new ones or you'll wear out them out in no time. If you have a grease gun you can buy a bearing packing tool. You put the bearing between the two funnels in the tool, then hook up the grease gun (filled with suitable hi temp grease, do not use regular chassis grease) and pump it until the grease seeps out between the rollers of the bearing, then fill it a little more. After I pull the bearing out I like to smear a little extra on the outside to cover any dry spots. For maximum life and quiet operation keep the grease as clean as possible (wash your hands before you handle them even though they'll be getting greasy again), protect the bearings and races from nicks or scratches.

Also, if you buy new rotors you will have to tap out the old bearing races from your old rotors unless you buy new bearings (they come with new races). If you haven't repacked bearings I'm guessing you haven't tapped out races either. Also not a big deal if you get (borrow) the bearing installation tool.

Your thoughts?

Jeff

silverado man · October 24, 2001

its also pretty easy to pack the bearings without the packing tool all you need to do is put a little grease in you palm and run the bearing across your palm until grease is visible on the other side of the bearing.

96 Vortec · October 24, 2001

Hmm...More than I'm willing to try alone. I'm sure it isn't that hard but I'd rather not try it myself and walk to work Monday morning.

Mikey, what are you doing this weekend...hint hint

76BBSub · October 26, 2001

Quote from silverado man, posted on Oct. 24 2001,08:53

its also pretty easy to pack the bearings without the packing tool all you need to do is put a little grease in you palm and run the bearing across your palm until grease is visible on the other side of the bearing.

Ture, it can be done by hand, that's how I used to do it. I found the grease tool at Auto Zone pretty cheap, and I find it to be faster and alot less messy, although you still get grease all over the place...my poor driveway!

Jeff

silverado man · October 26, 2001

Well Sat. Brian is coming in to town around 2 so will be hanging out with him. If you need help I could help you in the morning or on Sunday.

96 Vortec · November 6, 2001

Thanks for the advice.

I replaced the rotors with some new high quality pair. I also took your advice and got the semi-metallic pads. We also adjusted the drums and bled the system. We also pushed in the metering pin like the Chitlins manual said to correctly bleed the system. After a couple days of driving everything is like new. No more vibrations and herky jerky stops. It also stops straight and true now. Thanks again for the advice.

However, we didn't repack the bearings because the parts guy told us they were a sealed bearing system. He said with my mileage they should be doing fine because in 5 years he hasn't ever sold a single replacement bearing set.

76BBSub · November 6, 2001

Having repacked and replaced the bearings on my '96 I can gaurantee that they aren't sealed. What method did you use to remove/reinstall the bearing races in your new rotors, or did they come without hubs and you re-used your hubs?

Glad the outcome was what you wanted, brakes are one thing that you definitely want to have confidence in when driving!

Jeff

96 Vortec · November 7, 2001

I just pulled the calipers off and slid the rotors off and the new ones on. Put the new pads in the caliper and slid it back on.

There was what looked like an 1 1/2 nut that I didn't remove. I'm assuming that is the first step in removing the bearings?

76BBSub · November 8, 2001

OK, now I'm confused...you're parts guy was right, your truck does have sealed bearings. Now I'm just trying to figure out why mine didn't. This is weird, but since I haven't owned the truck for a coulpe of years I won't worry about it.

Sounds like you're in good shape, break AND bearing wise!

Jeff