Jump to content

AC Problems


GMCTodd

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 2002 GMC Sierra Crewcab AC works great until it gets in traffic then it blows hot air. It also does this at idle in th garage. The dealer replaced the compressor, controls, high pressure switch and it still does it. The compressor is being shut off by the high pressure switch. If you put gauges on the low port the pressure will climb high and the air starts blowing hot. After taking it in to the dealer the 3rd time they put a fan behind the grill. This helped but it is really really noisy and very annoying. I put in a new heavy duty fan clutch and it works well without the electric fan unless the temp gets above 80 (when you need the ac) This truck should not need an auxillary fan, the dealer even said so, but that is all that they could find that would help. Is there any suggestions out there??

Posted
My 2002 GMC Sierra Crewcab AC works great until it gets in traffic then it blows hot air. It also does this at idle in th garage. The dealer replaced the compressor, controls, high pressure switch and it still does it. The compressor is being shut off by the high pressure switch. If you put gauges on the low port the pressure will climb high and the air starts blowing hot. After taking it in to the dealer the 3rd time they put a fan behind the grill. This helped but it is really really noisy and very annoying. I put in a new heavy duty fan clutch and it works well without the electric fan unless the temp gets above 80 (when you need the ac) This truck should not need an auxillary fan, the dealer even said so, but that is all that they could find that would help. Is there any suggestions out there??

 

 

 

 

My guess is that if the condenser is clean than i would look at too much pag oil in the system. Has the compresser been changed more than once? Did the dealer put a full load of oil in the compresser? If so there is too much in the system causing poor cooling. The system must not have more than the prescribed amount of oil.

Posted

Are you sure it's a high pressure problem and not the low pressure (cycling) switch? We have replace those by the score!

 

If your pressure cycling switch has a brown band around the black plastic portion of the switch, it's definitely the one that's been a problem. The pressure cycling switch is the one that is screwed onto the accumulator (the silver can near the firewall).

Posted
I took it into the dealer again. I will see what he has to say.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes check low pressure cut out switch too. Bear in mind that you have to get air through raditor/condensor stack to cool freon (R134a) to be able to provide cool air and sometime it can take some agreesive fans to do that, especaily with a diesel (if you have one) because of the extra resistance in the stack from condensor, intercooler and then thick radiator and sometimes it takes some fan noise to maintain good airflow. Make sure that all the the cores are clean of any possible blockage too to get maximum possible airflow.

Posted

It was not hot enough here for the dealer to get it to act up again. They have replaced every switch and they said they checked the condensor again. It already has a new fan clutch and an extra electric fan that they mounted to blow air through the condensor, so it has plenty of air flow. If it is above 80 deg outside and you slow down in traffic the ac starts blowing 80 deg air and will not start blowing cold again until 20 minutes of going fast again. Also if it is close to 90 deg outside at idle it will start blowing 70 deg air. I told the manager what "redvett" said about to much PAG oil in the system. He said that the new compressor comes with the right amount of oil already in it, but he did say there is a chance they did not get all of the old oil out. When it gets hot here again in a week or two I will take it back in to them. If he remembers about the pag oil thing he may flush out the system and put in the correct amount...

Posted
It was not hot enough here for the dealer to get it to act up again. They have replaced every switch and they said they checked the condensor again. It already has a new fan clutch and an extra electric fan that they mounted to blow air through the condensor, so it has plenty of air flow. If it is above 80 deg outside and you slow down in traffic the ac starts blowing 80 deg air and will not start blowing cold again until 20 minutes of going fast again. Also if it is close to 90 deg outside at idle it will start blowing 70 deg air. I told the manager what "redvett" said about to much PAG oil in the system. He said that the new compressor comes with the right amount of oil already in it, but he did say there is a chance they did not get all of the old oil out. When it gets hot here again in a week or two I will take it back in to them. If he remembers about the pag oil thing he may flush out the system and put in the correct amount...

 

 

 

 

Snoman,

We at (GM) had this problem often when a customers vehicle had the compresser changed. The service person must drain the old compresser and measure the remaining oil and also if the new compresser has oil drain and add only the amount in the old compresser.

If they didnt do this you have too much oil. Have them remove & flush the condenser and only add the amount oil for your vehicle. Also has the orfice tube been changed?

Posted
It was not hot enough here for the dealer to get it to act up again. They have replaced every switch and they said they checked the condensor again. It already has a new fan clutch and an extra electric fan that they mounted to blow air through the condensor, so it has plenty of air flow. If it is above 80 deg outside and you slow down in traffic the ac starts blowing 80 deg air and will not start blowing cold again until 20 minutes of going fast again. Also if it is close to 90 deg outside at idle it will start blowing 70 deg air. I told the manager what "redvett" said about to much PAG oil in the system. He said that the new compressor comes with the right amount of oil already in it, but he did say there is a chance they did not get all of the old oil out. When it gets hot here again in a week or two I will take it back in to them. If he remembers about the pag oil thing he may flush out the system and put in the correct amount...

 

 

 

 

Snoman,

We at (GM) had this problem often when a customers vehicle had the compresser changed. The service person must drain the old compresser and measure the remaining oil and also if the new compresser has oil drain and add only the amount in the old compresser.

If they didnt do this you have too much oil. Have them remove & flush the condenser and only add the amount oil for your vehicle. Also has the orfice tube been changed?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes too much oil can cause this problem as can a bad expension valve but given the frequency of the problem in trucks that have never been serviced since factory that means that either they got to much oil on day one, have a expansion valve/orfice the is too large or the condensor is not cooling the "freon" enough to remove enough latent heat for it so that it expands and cools properly. The theory they work on is really pretty simple and any of the above (as well as a bad compression or plugged screen in orfice or receiver/dryer) can cause lack of cooling but if they are all within designed specs and insufficant air is moved through the condensor core, the cooling will lack capacity.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

I gave up and traded it in on a new one... The dealer never could fix the problem, I guess whomever bought the used truck will have problems.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's the 2026 order guide - Vehicle Order Guide   RPO code "AS3"?  Not seeing it.  What is it supposed to be?  I see AS3 used a long time ago as some sort of seat option, but its not applicable to the current Suburban.    I see RPO code "AZ3" which is 1st row 40/20/40 split bench.  That is only on LS trim, which LS can't option any of the trick suspension.     2nd row bench power fold RPO code is "ATT".  So your dealer should be able to sort their locator to find matching builds by searching the combo of ATT and Z95 combined to find a 2nd row power fold with MagRide.     You can do the 2nd row power bench AND have MagRide, or Mag with Air on Z71, RST and High Country.     Here's a Z71 with 2nd row power bench and the Z71 Off Road Package which adds the Adaptive Air and MagRide - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   Here's an RST with 2nd row power bench and the RST Capability Package, and RST Capability adds the Adaptive Air with Magride - 2026 Suburban | Details | Vehicle Locator   I can't find a High Country, but you can do it on there.  Requires the 6.2, and the Sun and Tow pack which allows you to then option the 2nd row power fold.  Black interior only.  High Country comes standard with MagRide and you can order the air if you get the High Country Deluxe, but Deluxe will take you to captain 2nd row.       You can do it at GMC on the AT4 and the regular Denali (not Ultimate) as well.  
    • So.  Get this.  On the Chevy regular cab, you can get the factory remote start at the dealer from the accessories catalog.  BUT.  GMC, you can't.   Now...get this...GMC 2 door, you CAN get the power seat.     Go.  Figure.   Anywho.  are you trying to order?  Or locate?  Ordering for 2 door 1/2 tons has been stopped as of April or May?  So you won't be able to order.  You'll have to shop on the ground units or in transit units.     Ordering was stopped because the new trucks are coming.  
    • Thank you.  I really appreciate the well wishes.  I'm an engineer in the telecom industry, I know hardly anything about marketing.  Over the years I did some videos for nonprofits and web sites for small businesses and the seed was planted.  Agree with over-buying, I started shooting on an iPhone before I got my first DSLR and tripod.   I'm looking at trucks with potentially 150,000+ miles to keep the cost of entry low while focusing on the client experience and equipment.  Good wireless mics for interviews, the right lenses & lighting to look professional.  But I don't want to be late or break down, the stress of emptying a trailer & securing a rental truck right before a gig would negate any savings from buying a junker.  So anything that leaks water, has extensive rust, or generally unreliable I'd like to avoid.   Does GM/Chevy overbuild these trucks for upfitting?  I talked to a local upfitter, they sometimes tie lights & other 12V into existing circuits, which I always thought was bad.  Which is why I enjoyed the AUX upfit switches on previous trucks (odd they mostly come with off-road or work truck packages).
    • i guess it might be depending on the type of driving. my 2.7 has 120k miles, changed the plugs at 70k and it runs as good as new. i have not used any injector cleaner
    • GM's are stainless and have a fairly robust powder coating, although, still not worth $850 in my opinion. They will hold up a lot better than their cheaper steel aftermarket counterparts.   What I like about the GM step bars is dealers will often equip their dealer stock with them. Lots of margin. Which means a lot of people end up buying them because they're already on the truck, even if they don't like them. So it's pretty easy to find brand new takeoffs with hardware on Marketplace and Craigslist for about $250.   That's what I did for my crew cab. I wanted ZR2 rock rails for the look, but with the ability to bolt up GM's assist step package. From GM it's about a $2500 accessory all in. The old folks in my life can't get in the truck without steps. I found the whole package on marketplace for $180.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...