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Door Hinge Bushings


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Posted

A friend of mine has a 94 fullsize extended cab, he said there are some nylon bushings on the hinge pin that wear out and need changed periodically.

 

My 1998 fullsize extended cab doors don't close quite right. They lift a slight bit when they hit the latch.

 

My friend says you just put a jack under the door, pop out the hinge pin, set the new bushing it and repeat for the other hinge.

 

Anybody ever heard of this? I've looked at my hinges and it doesn't look like the pins just pop out.

 

Any input appreciated.

Posted

I can't wait to see your answers. I've had the same question, but have not asked it yet. In fact I saw that Shucks sells them for about $5.00. I was going to buy a set but didn't since I thought I would check with the dealer first.

Posted

I replaced the door hinge pins and bushings in my '95 Suburban. It was really easy, and took about 30 minutes per door.

 

If you look closely at the bushings you should see that they are completely worn through (or close to it) on one side. When I got mine out they fell to pieces. Yes, the pins just pop out when you remove the end caps and tap them with a hammer.

 

I would suggest either having one of those devices made specifically for holding the door, or get a couple of friends to help you take it off and set it on a moving blanket. Just putting a jack under it is a recipe for disaster. The things are heavy. And, make sure you take the door off. Don't try to do it with the door on or you'll just mess up the paint.

 

The one other thing you need is something that compresses the door spring so that you can get it back where it belongs when you're done. They make a specific tool for it (I borrowed one), but I suppose something more common may work.

 

I've talked to others that have done it and they agreed that it is best to get it done ASAP because the more the door sags, the less likely the sag will completely disappear when the hinge pins and bushings are fixed.

 

I got the new pins and bushings from NAPA for about $7.00 each.

 

:banghead:

Posted

The bushings are not nylon. They are some type of metal.

 

Go ahead and do both pins while you are in there. The jacks at the parts store will try to sell you only 1. You need 2 on each side.

 

And yes, if the pins are neglected and allowed to eat into the door or hinge itself, they will still have slack even when the bushings are replaced.

Posted

When I did the bushings and pins on my wifes '99 Blazer nobody had the right spring tool for the GM doors. I ended up compressing the spring in a vice and keeping it compressed with bailing wire. After I had the spring in place I cut the wire with a wire cutter.

 

I agree with having a friend help. You're a better man than me if you can balance the door on a jack and get the pins and bushings back into place without F@#%king something up.

Posted

I used an engine hoist cherry picker and 2 cargo straps to support the door.

 

Get a spring compressor to compress the door spring.

 

The rest is fairly simple, I made a couple tools to press the bushings in.

 

Have fun.

 

A friend of mine has a 94 fullsize extended cab, he said there are some nylon bushings on the hinge pin that wear out and need changed periodically.

 

My 1998 fullsize extended cab doors don't close quite right.  They lift a slight bit when they hit the latch. 

 

My friend says you just put a jack under the door, pop out the hinge pin, set the new bushing it and repeat for the other hinge.

 

Anybody ever heard of this?  I've looked at my hinges and it doesn't look like the pins just pop out.

 

Any input appreciated.

 

 

 

Posted

One question, if you can't get a buddy over to help at the time you change them, can you use a jack and just change one pin at a time without the door falling off? Or, do you have to change both pins on each door at one time? Thanks.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Why didn't anybody tell me that the dang door weighed 200 lbs.... My wife dropped it off the jack and on her foot. She's pissed about her foot and I'm pissed that she dropped my door....

 

It all worked out without damage (to the truck anyway). The project was a little more challenging than I thought, but took about 1 hr. It took me a little while to get bailing wire and wire ties to work to keep the compression of the spring. The door is much more pleasant. It has no ill effects from waiting 3 mos to do the project. I know that was lazy.... Next project .... replace the door handle as the plastic has cracked..... Thanks for the help on figuring this little project out guys.

Posted

From my previous reply: "Just putting a jack under it is a recipe for disaster. The things are heavy".

 

What I meant was, HEAVY.

 

From Mr. Smith's previous post: "I used an engine hoist cherry picker and 2 cargo straps to support the door."

 

Translation: If you need an engine hoist with cargo straps to hold it up, it's HEAVY.

 

 

Don't let your wife see this post. At least there was no damage. To your truck.

 

:rolleyes:

Posted

One question, if you can't get a buddy over to help at the time you change them, can you use a jack and just change one pin at a time without the door falling off? Or, do you have to change both pins on each door at one time? Thanks.

Posted

And you thought it was light? :rolleyes:

 

 

Why didn't anybody tell me that the dang door weighed 200 lbs.... My wife dropped it off the jack and on her foot.  She's pissed about her foot and I'm pissed  that she dropped my door....

 

It all worked out without damage (to the truck anyway).  The project was a little more challenging than I thought, but took about 1 hr.  It took me a little while to get bailing wire and wire ties to work to keep the compression of the spring. The door is much more pleasant.  It has no ill effects from waiting 3 mos to do the project.  I know that was lazy.... Next project .... replace the door handle as the plastic has cracked..... Thanks for the help on figuring this little project out guys.

 

 

 

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