Jump to content

image enhancing tweeter install

bballa

By bballa
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

bballa Enthusiast

bballa

Posted
Posted

CMS 1'' Component Tweeters Soft Silk. I would like to install these tweeters in my truck as imaging enhancers, up in the corners of the dash. My question is how to wire them. My system consists of a pioneer deck(DEH-P77DH) a MTX mono amp running 2 subs, and a MTX 4 ch amp running my back spkrs and front comp spkrs(crystal CPE60s) Would it be best to power the tweeters from the front channel before the comps crossover so that the amp is powering the CPE60s and the pair of tweeters with their inline crossovers or power them from the decks internal amp. Thank’s

mmmikkke Senior Enthusiast

mmmikkke

Posted
Posted
CMS 1'' Component Tweeters Soft Silk. I would like to install these tweeters in my truck as imaging enhancers, up in the corners of the dash. My question is how to wire them. My system consists of a pioneer deck(DEH-P77DH) a MTX mono amp running 2 subs, and a MTX 4 ch amp running my back spkrs and front comp spkrs(crystal CPE60s) Would it be best to power the tweeters from the front channel before the comps crossover so that the amp is powering the CPE60s and the pair of tweeters with their inline crossovers or power them from the decks internal amp. Thank’s

 

 

 

I'd power the tweeters from the MTX amp, not the in-dash Pionner. At high frequencies, there is little sound energy, so you won't be taxing the MTX amp by parallel-wiring the tweeters (with their crossover in the circuit), with the Crystal CPE60's.

 

The MTX amp is probably a lot lower distortion than the power amp in the Pioneer in-dash unit. So to keep your sound low distortion, with good imaging, I'd power from the MTX.

 

The only downside is you lose the ability to use the Pioneer's front level control to fade in the tweeters just right. Instead you might end up having to put a fader (L-pad, if you know what that is) on both new tweeters so you can bring their level down, or if the Crystals are louder, some series power resistor on the Crystals will attenuate them (and lighten their impedance).

 

Am I making sense to you?

bballa Enthusiast

bballa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I understand the imaging tweeters may need some attenuation separate from the front main speakers. A single stereo L-pad or one for each tweeter? Are they wired in line pos side only. I know an L-pad is basicly a variable resister but I have not used one in any of my car stereo installs. thanks

mmmikkke Senior Enthusiast

mmmikkke

Posted
Posted
I understand the imaging tweeters may need some attenuation separate from the front main speakers. A single stereo L-pad or one for each tweeter? Are they wired in line pos side only. I know an L-pad is basicly a variable resister but I have not used one in any of my car stereo installs. thanks

 

 

 

The reason I suggested an L-pad for the tweeters is because they're likely to be very high impedance, relative to full range speakers, and a simple series resistor might not give you noticeable attenuation...depends on the tweeter, of course.

 

But a stereo L-pad will definitely give you attenuation. It has no choice. It's a non-inductive (frequency insensitive) voltage divider. It sets up one resistance between the pos and neg of the source, and then also sets up another resistance between the pos and neg of the tweeter. The resistance ratio is equal to the voltage ratio, so if before insterting the L-pad, 5 volts between pos and neg gave you 10 watts of sound output, when you dial the L-pad to half-way, 2.5 volts will give you 5 watts of sound output.

 

But also keep in mind that if the new tweeters are LESS efficient than the crystals, you're going to have the opposite problem. At that point, you could just use the same stereo L-pad on each channel of the crystals instead.

  • 3 weeks later...
bballa Enthusiast

bballa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Mike, thanks for your responses. How are those bass shakers working out for you ? Adding the imaging tweeters to my system was very easy and sonically worth the effort. I wired them to the rear channel of my four channel amp so that I could control their output seperately from my front spkrs with my decks fader. My deck has three outputs(front, rear, and nonfading sub). I just fade forward 1-3 positions on the fader and the spkrs blend very nicely and image great. It really moves the image up and forward with great detail. These Crystal speakers sound fantastic, and for the price I paid can't be beat! Highly recomended !!!! :cheers:

mmmikkke Senior Enthusiast

mmmikkke

Posted
Posted
Hey Mike, thanks for your responses. How are those bass shakers working out for you ? Adding the imaging tweeters to my system was very easy and sonically worth the effort. I wired them to the rear channel of my four channel amp so that I could control their output seperately from my front spkrs with my decks fader. My deck has three outputs(front, rear, and nonfading sub). I just fade forward 1-3 positions on the fader and the spkrs blend very nicely and image great. It really moves the image up and forward with great detail. These Crystal speakers sound fantastic, and for the price I paid can't be beat! Highly recomended !!!! :cheers:

 

 

 

Glad everything worked for you. :cheers:

 

The bass shakers worked like I had hoped. I can get sinful bass from my Infinity Basslink, and the bass shakers just add to the pounding when the drums or the bass get really deep. It's truly satisfying.

 

I'm running them with just enough gain to make the bottoms of the front seats vibrate the same as the Basslink makes the back of the seat vibrate. The bass on more than one track has amazed me. It really feels like you are in a bar with a live band. And since I just got XM for my Pioneer, I've found that XM is a great bass source! That digital signal has a full bottom end; it's not "compressed" like regular FM radio.

 

The amazing thing is how well the bass shakers can blend with the tactile information given out by the Basslink. At first I was running the bass shakers a little hot, but I forced myself to turn their gain down a bit so I couldn't pick them out separate from the Basslink. Now they're seamless, and life is good.

 

Now you can't even tell they're on, unless I turn them off. You definitely notice their absense. I'm running a Pioneer 35W/ch (rms) amp to the 50W/ch (rms) bass shakers, it's about right. The Basslink puts out 110 dB from 30 to 100 hz with no effort, and I have no need for anything any higher.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      That’s what I’m wondering is if the stock backspacing of the factory wheels will clear new upper control arms and such  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...