Jump to content

Retained Access Power


Recommended Posts

Posted

Since the RAP Class 2 signal pulses has anyone every hooked up an aftermarket radio, or other equipement that stays on after the ignition is turned off ?

 

From what I can tell the class -2 signal pulses at 10.4 bps and rides on a 7 volt dc ....am thinking of a circuit that would get the message, and then stay on with a micro relay driving the 12 battery voltage, but not sure...

 

Some one on this board must have mastered the RAP for after market stuff....

Posted
Since the RAP Class 2 signal pulses has anyone every hooked up an aftermarket radio, or other equipement that stays on after the ignition is turned off ?

 

From what I can tell the class -2 signal pulses at 10.4 bps and rides on a 7 volt dc ....am thinking of a circuit that would get the message, and then stay on with a micro relay driving the 12 battery voltage, but not sure...

 

Some one on this board must have mastered the RAP for after market stuff....

 

 

 

The Metra GMRC-01 and GMRC-02 units do this. They have a relay, I think, and their purpose is to provide RAC to aftermarket radios.

 

I have the GMRC-02 ($70) and mine is hooked up to a Pioneer in-dash unit. Works pretty much like the factory radio did (but of course since it's not a GM radio, it sounds a lot better).

 

If I had it to do over again, I'd get the GMRC-01 so it doesn't try sending the chime signal to the front left speakers. I'd rather have the chime come through the cheezy 2.5" speaker built into the GMRC-01.

Posted

Is it safe to assume you don't have a sunroof? Even if not, the controlling circuit is probably still there in the BCM. I haven't actually checked, but it seems likely. In that case, you'd only need a relay to tie into that pin on the BCM to have it controlled by RAP. Then, the relay could power whatever you want to be on RAP.

Posted
Is it safe to assume you don't have a sunroof?  Even if not, the controlling circuit is probably still there in the BCM.  I haven't actually checked, but it seems likely.  In that case, you'd only need a relay to tie into that pin on the BCM to have it controlled by RAP.  Then, the relay could power whatever you want to be on RAP.

 

 

 

 

Any more specifics will help....wire color etc....

Posted
Any more specifics will help....wire color etc....

 

Connector 2 on the BCM, which is a gray, 24 pin connector, terminal B3. The wire is dark blue if you had a sunroof. Without a sunroof, there may not be a wire in the connector in that cavity, but the pin should be in the BCM.

 

It's only meant to control a relay, so I wouldn't try to power up something major directly on that pin.

Posted

I can comfirm that the sunroof circuit, does work... I used it to power the Xm adapter on my brother's 2003 Tahoe. It does not have a sunroof, but the BCM still activates that wire. I can't remember if I had to add the pin to the plug or if it was already there. Kinda thinking I had to add it.

Posted

So then the BCM connector 2 Gray 24 pin connector pin B3 which is circuit 1353 RAP supply voltage feeds over to the sun roof.

 

GM-Tech is this a pulsed voltage ? I can't simply hook up this to my Sirius radio power directly right ?

 

By your last response I was thinking a micro relay and find a 12 volt source to actually power the radio. But then the gentlemen above states he powered his XM directly from B3....

 

I was thinking that the B3 RAP signal was a small pulsed signal of a few micro seconds in duration on top of a 7 volt dc signal. using a micro relay to the one side to open the 12 volt supply voltage on the other to feed my sirius radio...I don't know what the draw is but suspect its a few millamps....

 

Thoughts ?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
So then the BCM connector 2 Gray 24 pin connector pin B3 which is circuit 1353 RAP supply voltage feeds over to the sun roof.

 

GM-Tech is this a pulsed voltage ?  I can't simply hook up this to my Sirius radio power directly right ?

 

By your last response I was thinking a micro relay and find a 12 volt source to actually power the radio.  But then the gentlemen above states he powered his XM directly from B3....

 

I was thinking that the B3 RAP signal was a small pulsed signal of a few micro seconds in duration on top of a 7 volt dc signal.  using a micro relay to the one side to open the 12 volt supply voltage on the other to feed my sirius radio...I don't know what the draw is but suspect its a few millamps....

 

Thoughts ?

 

 

 

 

I installed my Kenwood with the GMRC-01 and the sSWI-X steering wheel control interface. Both work great. I did retain the door chime with the radio interface, and everything works like it did the day I bought it. I talked to Best buy and Circiut CIty before, and both told me you have to keep the factory radio in place, in order for the circuits to work properly, like the dash cluster, ignition. FALSE Talked to Crutchfield about this, and since they install everything they sell, they would know a little more than the others.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 617 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...