New Workshop/Garage

plainvanilla · January 5, 2006

I am just about ready to have a steel building built on my property and I am really thinking hard about what I want verses what I can pay for.

I am currently looking at a building about 25-30 foot deep and 35-40 feet wide.

I want the ability to park 3 vehicles, or trailers, or boats and still have ample room for a working area. I currently build ornamental steel art and need a modest area for my welder and a table. Right now, I use my garage and have to roll everything up every night to get the truck in.

I am on a budget, but have a good friend who does this type of construciton, turn key.

I plan on saving about 15-20 % from retail and want to use the savings to build more than I would have been able to.

If any of you have workshops/garages, I would like to know what you went with.

I am also deciding what openings to frame.

Wingnut · January 5, 2006

Most expensive thing on the whole deal will be the slab. Something that size will probably cost you well over 10 grand...Probably closer to 20.

Concrete costs too damn much for a product that's primarily sand and gravel.

builderpaul · January 5, 2006

Nice project.

For years I tried to use a 3 car garage to park in and to do woodwork in. A separate work area is more efficient and keeps the vehicles from getting covered in dust.

3 vehicles you will need about 30'wide and 25' long. so you will not have much left for a work area. I would think a 30' wide x 45 long would work well. Largest door you can get on the wide side and also at least 9' high. Build a wall to separate the garage from the shop and put an overhead door in this wall to unload materials into the shop area. Install a separate entry door to shop area. So you don't have to enter the garage to get into the shop.

I figure about 30 yds of concrete with an Alaskan slab style pour. Around $6K to $8Karound here. That sand and gravel is so dependent on energy to excavate, separate, wash, truck, and cement needs lots of energy just to make. The final product uses lots of energy to mix and deliver. I get rate increase notices every couple of months depending on the oil prices.

plainvanilla · January 6, 2006

Nice project.
For years I tried to use a 3 car garage to park in and to do woodwork in. A separate work area is more efficient and keeps the vehicles from getting covered in dust.

3 vehicles you will need about 30'wide and 25' long. so you will not have much left for a work area. I would think a 30' wide x 45 long would work well. Largest door you can get on the wide side and also at least 9' high. Build a wall to separate the garage from the shop and put an overhead door in this wall to unload materials into the shop area. Install a separate entry door to shop area. So you don't have to enter the garage to get into the shop.

I figure about 30 yds of concrete with an Alaskan slab style pour. Around $6K to $8Karound here. That sand and gravel is so dependent on energy to excavate, separate, wash, truck, and cement needs lots of energy just to make. The final product uses lots of energy to mix and deliver. I get rate increase notices every couple of months depending on the oil prices.

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Yeah, mud is expensive to make.

I think ready mix market prices are aound $63/yard here. There is alot of competition.

I'm having my contractor friend do a turn-key job, so I won't get too involved in the slab, except to make sure it's at least 3000psi and 4" with plenty of steel.

I like rebar on 18" center.

Great idea about the wall between the workshop and the bays.

Don't need any grinding sparks flying over onto the cars for sure.

PaulieK · January 6, 2006

How about adding a drain in the garage as well as a slop sink. Getting water over there might be a pain but the drain you could plumb before the slab gets poured. My buddies garage has a workshop as well as a smoking area/lounge with a small tv, wet bar and a strippers pole! LOL I love that garage.

busta · January 6, 2006

What about going with a pole barn style building...save a little money that way but dont have to sacrifice anything really...here in KS most of the time they build the structure and then pour concrete afterwards...use metal for the sides and roof....put your posts 10' on center and set your roof trusses on them then use 2x6 purlens between your posts...i am a contractor salesman and we sell alot of these buildings...let me know if you want any help figuring materials or something

plainvanilla · January 6, 2006

What about going with a pole barn style building...save a little money that way but dont have to sacrifice anything really...here in KS most of the time they build the structure and then pour concrete afterwards...use metal for the sides and roof....put your posts 10' on center and set your roof trusses on them then use 2x6 purlens between your posts...i am a contractor salesman and we sell alot of these buildings...let me know if you want any help figuring materials or something

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I've seen that style before and they can look real good.

I wanted to be able to hand steel to make longer spans without any poles in the floor.

Can you do that with that style building?

WI_Dave · January 11, 2006

Consider heating the floor. You could add the heater and pump yourself so only real expense would be plumbing before slab is poured. Laying close to ice cold floor sucks.

*If your in a cold climate.

Worktruck · January 11, 2006

How about adding a drain in the garage

I have tried to add drains to floors and always run into trouble with code officials. The drain requirements for a garage are insane, in case of a gas or oil spill, it can't just empty to the enviroment or into a septic tank. Has to have a holding tank with filters. At least here in Mainiac land.

busta · January 11, 2006

What about going with a pole barn style building...save a little money that way but dont have to sacrifice anything really...here in KS most of the time they build the structure and then pour concrete afterwards...use metal for the sides and roof....put your posts 10' on center and set your roof trusses on them then use 2x6 purlens between your posts...i am a contractor salesman and we sell alot of these buildings...let me know if you want any help figuring materials or something

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I've seen that style before and they can look real good.

I wanted to be able to hand steel to make longer spans without any poles in the floor.

Can you do that with that style building?

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Sure you can...most of the time when I sell these types of buildings we use roof trusses...i just bid one yesterday where we were spanning 40' and they wanted to have storage in the attic so there would even be more weight...that type of span was no problem by using trusses

plainvanilla · January 12, 2006

I won't be needing a heated floor in Texas for sure, but I am having it insulated.

I looked at a similar size building being built yesterday and I am just about set on what I am going with.

I saw a 24X30 (mine will be 35) with 12ft eve height and a 2:12 roof pitch.

I did not realize how tall a 12' would be until I stood under one bring covered.

My builder wants to do the concrete at 3500 PSI instead of standard 3000 and use 3/8th rebar on 12" centers.

I still just hate to have to buy a 10ft commercial roll up door. They just don't make a residential style door any taller than 7'.

I know that ain't gonna be cheap.

Wingnut · January 12, 2006

Not as much as you would think. My neighbor just paid about $1200 for two of them installed, along with a walk-through door.

99silveradoz71 · January 13, 2006

PV, check around regarding the door. I know my builder had 8ft doors standard. I believe mine is a Wayne Dalton. I dunno if they go any bigger than 8, but might be worth a look.

Elwood 2000 · January 13, 2006

I know you are on a budget, but do it right NOW. Later, you will wish you would have and it will be too late to make the change.

Don't know what you are going to finish the inside off with, but I suggest the perforated white steel. It reflects light to keep things bright, is clean and with the perforations, it is quiet.

If you are going to do water and a drain, be sure to put in a toilet and a small water heater. Warm water works so much nicer!

Best of luck and let us know what you decide.

plainvanilla · January 13, 2006

.....If you are going to do water and a drain, be sure to put in a toilet and a small water heater. Warm water works so much nicer!....

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Absolutley Right.