Rear output shaft leak...Solved

Bish · January 30, 2006

Just wanted to post some feedback on a problem I had been having and finally solved.

For the last 30K or so (160K total), I have had a leaking rear output shaft seal on the transfer case. I replaced the seal several times ($60 each time) and it would stop for around 5K then start leaking again. I tried buffing the sealing surface on the slip-yolk (the piece that goes into the t-case) and it would still leak. The bushing was fine but I couldn't get the seal to stop leaking.

Well, I finally put in the famous nickel-plated slip yolk figuring if it fixed the sealing issue, it would also help with the clunk. Needless to say it has been about 5K miles and still no leaking. I'm thinking that periodically, the seal would rub up to the part of the shaft that has a little rust on it and it would eventually damage the seal. Since the new one is nickel plated, it should never rust and hopefully the leak will not come back. The slip yolk cost me around $130 at P&G. Wished I had replaced it sooner since I went through around $180 in seals

hoorders · January 30, 2006

Just wanted to post some feedback on a problem I had been having and finally solved.

For the last 30K or so (160K total), I have had a leaking rear output shaft seal on the transfer case. I replaced the seal several times ($60 each time) and it would stop for around 5K then start leaking again. I tried buffing the sealing surface on the slip-yolk (the piece that goes into the t-case) and it would still leak. The bushing was fine but I couldn't get the seal to stop leaking.

Well, I finally put in the famous nickel-plated slip yolk figuring if it fixed the sealing issue, it would also help with the clunk. Needless to say it has been about 5K miles and still no leaking. I'm thinking that periodically, the seal would rub up to the part of the shaft that has a little rust on it and it would eventually damage the seal. Since the new one is nickel plated, it should never rust and hopefully the leak will not come back. The slip yolk cost me around $130 at P&G. Wished I had replaced it sooner since I went through around $180 in seals

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My output shaft leaks as well............and I just replaced it not so long ago........I think I may have to replace my slip yoke as well.........good post, thanks..

RyanZ71 · January 30, 2006

Did the slip yoke resolve the clunking issue as well?

Did you repair it yourself? If so, how hard was it to replace the seal and slip yoke?

Thanks!

Ryan

Bish · January 30, 2006

Did the slip yoke resolve the clunking issue as well?
Did you repair it yourself? If so, how hard was it to replace the seal and slip yoke?

Thanks!

Ryan

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Depends on what you mean by resolve. It is definitely significantly more quiet but as it's a 4x4, I think there will always be some kind of slop in the drivetrain.

Replacing was super easy with 1 exception...you need a press or use sockets and a big vise to remove/reinstall the front universal joint.

Remove 4 bolts at rear diff holding driveshaft in. Use a screwdriver or hammer to separate while sliding driveshaft into t-case (only an inch or 2 to remove driveshaft). Slide driveshaft out of tcase. I used a press to remove the universal joint. Install new slip yolk onto driveshaft. Remove seal with hammer tapping lightly around the outside of seal. I used a piece of PVP (2" I believe) to tap the seal into place. A little AutotrakII on the slip yolk and install making sure it is lined up with the rear for installation. Install 4 bolts and you should be good to go.

It took me about 30 minutes start to finish after truck was on jack stands. Easier than changing oil IMO with the exception of removing the universal joint.

c10ls01 · April 18, 2007

What / Where is P&G ? I've been dealing with a leaking output shaft seal for years and can't figure out how to make it quit.

Bish · April 18, 2007

What / Where is P&G ? I've been dealing with a leaking output shaft seal for years and can't figure out how to make it quit.

P&G is a Chevy dealer that does online orders. P&G

Sorry but I don't have the part number. Email them with your year make model and tell them you want the nickel plated slip yolk and they will send you the part number. THeir prices are WAY better than a local dealer. You will also need at least one universal joint as you destroy one to change the slip yolk.

On a positive note, I still have no leaking after 50K on a new seal and the nickel plated slip yolk.

ken1mod · April 18, 2007

Gentlemen,

I had a seal leak problem once like this and after the third seal replacement, I bought a new seal and romoved the long tension spring from the lip. I unscrewed the spring and shortened it to increase the pressure on the lip. Real easy to do. Solved the problem for 3 bucks.

Ken

Bish · April 19, 2007

Gentlemen,

I had a seal leak problem once like this and after the third seal replacement, I bought a new seal and romoved the long tension spring from the lip. I unscrewed the spring and shortened it to increase the pressure on the lip. Real easy to do. Solved the problem for 3 bucks.

Ken

This does work with those of you with a slight leak. In my case, I think the slip yolk was corroded enough to cut the new seals in short order. Besides, I wanted the slip yolk to help the "clunk"