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Slip Yoke Squawk


heavy4x4

Question

I've got a pretty nasty case of the driveshaft slip-yoke squawk coming off a stop. I'd like to replace the splined portion of the driveshaft with the new piece used in the technical service bulletin.

 

1) Do you have the part number for the yoke they replace the bad ones with? What did they do differently? Different hardening process?

 

2) When a GM dealership does this under warranty or otherwise, do they rebalance the driveshaft before putting it back in the vehicle. I would guess this machined part is pretty uniform about the rotational axis, but I'd like to know if this is something I NEED to do.

 

Thanks,

-Steve

 

(Edit) P.S. This is on a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4, Extended Cab, Short Bed, with the massive aluminum driveshaft.

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Mine's really...really bad.

 

Last year, was the worst i had ever heard it.

 

I was coming off the 390...from Dansville...to Rochester...with a friend of mine...the ride was about 60 miles non stop 65-75mph...i let off the gas onto the off ramp, held the brakes for a second, and when i let go, the bang was so loud, i honestly throught i blew the rear end.

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Good info...I need to do this to my 94' Silvy. :)

 

 

 

 

How much? :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you're asking how much it cost, GM list price for the new slip yoke with new u-joint is $227. The GM dealership I bought mine from wanted over $250 but I told them I wasn't going to pay more than GM list price. If you have the time, order from gmpartsdirect.com and you'll save probably $40-50. I needed to do mine in a hurry so I didn't have that luxury.

 

-Steve

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Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (01/05/2005)

 

 

 

Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)

 

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

 

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

 

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

 

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

 

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

 

1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

 

2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe

 

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

 

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

 

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

 

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

 

1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

 

1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

 

2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL

 

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

 

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

 

2003-2005 HUMMER H2

 

with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

 

Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

 

Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:

 

• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)

 

• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)

 

• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)

 

• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001

 

• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042

 

• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028

 

Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

 

Follow the service procedure below.

 

Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI Document ID #349918).

Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.

 

Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.

Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.

Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.

Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.

 

Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.

 

Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.

If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.

 

 

 

Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.

 

 

 

Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.

If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.

Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.

Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.

Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.

Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.

Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.

Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.

Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.

 

 

 

Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.

Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.

 

 

 

With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.

Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.

Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.

Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.

Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup

 

Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.

Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.

Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.

 

 

 

If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.

It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.

Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.

Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.

Install the yoke retainers and bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).

 

Lower the vehicle.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Usage

 

12477702

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Ext Cab Short Box Pickups (New Style and Old Style)

 

12477704

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500 Series Ext Cab Short Box Pickups (New Style)

 

12479383

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated

 

Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Silverado, Sierra Regular Cab Pickups (New Style)

 

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

 

K1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade (Old Style)

 

12479384

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip, (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated

 

Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade w/ 4WD or AWD (New Style)

 

12479385

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated

 

Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12471510

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)

 

89058876

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Crew Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74) (New Style)

 

4WD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab Long Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74) (New Style)

 

4WD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date before 2/2004) (New Style)

 

4WD/AWD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date before 2/2004) (New Style)

 

89058878

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)

 

4WD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Crew Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)

 

89058880

Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (with u-joint) , Nickel Plated

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date after 2/2004) or 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO ML6) (New Style)

 

4WD 2500HD Series Silverado and Sierra Extended Cab, Short Bed Pickups with 5-Speed Allison Transmission (RPO M74 build date after 2/2004) or 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO ML6) (New Style)

 

12479126

U Joint Kit

4WD/AWD 1500 Series Silverado, Sierra Regular Cab Pickups (New Style)

 

4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

 

4WD 1500 Regular Cab Pickup, Tahoe, Suburban, Escalade (Old Style)

 

Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade w/ 4WD or AWD (New Style)

 

12471510

U Joint Kit

4WD/AWD 2500HD/3500 Series Silverado and Sierra Regular Cab, Long Bed Pickups with 6.0L (RPO LQ4) Engine (New Style)

 

88964470

Yoke Asm., Prop Sft Slip (without U joint) Nickel Plated

 

Must be ordered with U joint kit P/N 88964507

HUMMER H2

 

88964507

U-Joint

HUMMER H2

 

 

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

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I had this issue on my 99 Suburban and 2002 Suburban both were fixed by removing the driveshaft and cleaning the yoke splines with a small wire brush than liberally coating the inside of the yoke (splines) with heavy duty teflon grease. Then simply re-install the drive shaft. I ran both over 100k afterwards and never a peep.

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Might be a good idea to put a little grease in the nickel plated slip yoke after you get it replaced. I had to have the slip yoke replaced on my 2003 1500 with a nickel plated yoke due to the clunk. A few months later the clunk was almost as bad as it was with the original yoke. I pulled the shaft and saw that it was bone dry in there!

 

I don't know if not lubing the slip yoke is a GM issue or if my dealership cut a corner. Regardless, I don't understand how either GM or the dealership can think that putting a nickel plated piece of steel against another piece of steel in a high pressure, high speed, friction environment won't eventually cause the nickel plating to wear off and so no lubing is necessary! Doesn't make sense in my eyes.

 

I can't help but wonder if the nickel plated yoke would even have been necessary if the original yoke would have been lubed at the factory...

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Yup, I did give the yoke a shot of grease before I installed it on the t-case output.

 

I certainly hope this slop and squawk doesn't come back for the rest of the life of the vehicle while it's in my hands.

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Sweet, thanks for the info. That squak is getting annoying. I've never removed the U-Joints before. Maybe I'll try spraying some white Litium grease in the slip joints without removing the drive shaft. If that doesn't work I'll dive into removing the drive shaft. Thanks again for the clarification.

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Thanks for the instructions and especially the part numbers!

 

I finally got around to replacing the yoke (the squawk was getting ridiculous) because I needed to replace a u-joint. As of the initial test drive, the new yoke seems to have fixed the problem. Although it was expensive, this was well worth it, as it makes my truck feel like a whole new truck. No more squawk!

 

Thanks again,

-Steve

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Don't worry, it's quite easy.

 

Block the rear end up on jack stands.

Put the truck in neutral.

You should now be able to turn the driveshaft with your hands.

Unbolt the four bolts that hold the u-joint cross to the differential.

Now using a screwdriver, push the u-joint away from the differential and the yoke should slide back into the t-case.

Slide the driveshaft out of the t-case. I had a ziplock bag ready to cover the yoke with until I could get it to the work bench (keeps dirt off it).

Also make sure that your bearing caps do not come off the u-joint you unbolted from the differnetial as it may not have internal retaining rings.

Put a plastic bag over the t-case to keep dirt out.

Now grease with appropriate GM lube, forget the correct kind off-hand, it's in your manual.

I used a long wooden shim to apply the grease all down the inside of the yoke.

 

Good luck. This would be the easiest, cheapest fix! Costs you like $3 for the grease and $20 for the gun if you don't have it. :smash:

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My 1999 Yukon, 5.7 2wd 57K miles AT, makes a noise just before I come to a stop and just as I accelerate from a stop. I would describe it as very close to the sound of the truck's horn, if you were to tap it quickly. Could this be the same slip yoke problem being discussed? I just had my tranny rebuilt and as soon as I drove it home from the shop I noticed the noise. I don't feel or hear any clunking and I wouldn't describe it as a chirp. When I think of a chirp I think of the sound a bad AC clutch makes when it engages. It happens everytime. Now, I can prevent the noise from happening if I slow my stop down as gingerly as possible so the truck doesn't recoil, then I don't hear it. Any tips would be appreicated.

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I wonder if cleaning that booger and coating it real heavy with GM's "slip yoke lube" or ATF or T_case fluid would help this issue for 250$ I'd try it. (New T-case fluid fixed mine.)

 

 

 

 

 

Did that and it only quieted down the problem for about a month. And, even though the sound was gone for that amount of time, I still had the clunk feel that I couldn't stand.

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