Jump to content

Chevy p/u Air Conditioning Problem


tonystewart01

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just purchased a 1992 CK1500 v-8 and the air conditioner quit cooling on the way home while driving at highway speeds. I turned of the a/c for about 2-3 minutes and turned it back on. It began cooling again. After another 5 minutes or so it quit cooling again. I drove it the rest of the way home (about 5 more minutes) and couldn't get the unit to cool. When I got home, I opened the hood and the compressor wasn't running. I turned off the truck and came back in about thirty minutes, cranked the truck up and the a/c worked fine. Low refrigerant problem? Switch? Any ideas would be helpful.

Posted
Just purchased a 1992 CK1500 v-8 and the air conditioner quit cooling on the way home while driving at highway speeds. I turned of the a/c for about 2-3 minutes and turned it back on. It began cooling again. After another 5 minutes or so it quit cooling again. I drove it the rest of the way home (about 5 more minutes) and couldn't get the unit to cool. When I got home, I opened the hood and the compressor wasn't running. I turned off the truck and came back in about thirty minutes, cranked the truck up and the a/c worked fine. Low refrigerant problem? Switch? Any ideas would be helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

you need to put gages on it and see if it is cycling out on the low or high side and go from there. .

 

it is normal for it to cycle, but not to stay off for long periods of time which indicates a pressure problem in the refrigerant.

 

92 still had R 12, dont know if yours has been converted to R 134a but it is quite possible it is low on refrigerant which will cause the condition you describe.

Posted

It's been converted to R134A. I plan on picking up some manifold gauges today (mine only work w/ r12 fittings) to check pressures. Roughly what should I expect on low and high sides w/ R134A in 90-95 degree weather? At what pressure should the accumulator switch shut out? Thanks.

Posted

OK... have quite a bit more info. I put the manifold gauges on today. It was 96 degrees out and the low side reading dipped to 27 psi while the low side climbed to 290 psi. Just before the compressor kicked off, the low side dipped to approximately 25 psi and the high to 270 psi. This was with the truck running at 1500 rpms with the windows down on recirculate at max fan speed. After several minutes (say 10), I rolled up the windows to get the compressor to kick off (this is the point at which the pressures began to drop slightly). The compressor then kicked off and never came back on even though the cab temperatures continued to climb. I'd say I ran the truck another 10 minutes and the compressor never came back on.

 

Additionally, I tested the cycling switch on the accumulator and it seems to work. Continuity exists when the compressor is running... and when it is "supposed" to be running but is not. I then went to the two pin connector mounted on the upper front of the compressor. While the compressor was running, their would be 12VDC across the terminals. When the compressor kicked off, the voltage would drop to zero. However, the voltage would cycle back on (12V) shortly after the compressor kicked off, but the compressor would not cycle back on. Repeated pressing of the A/C button would also cycle the 12V at the compressor on and off, but the compressor would not kick in. It seems to me that the 12V at the compressor should be signaling the clutch to engage but it is not for some reason. Could this indicate a bad clutch? BTW when I say the compressor does not cycle back on, I mean it makes no attempt to come back on... no chattering clutch, no momentary engagement... nothing. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Posted

... Forgot to mention... at 96 degrees (ambient temp) the system equalizes to about 85 psi once the a/c is shut down. Don't know if it's of any use but trying to be as thorough as possible. Thanks again.

Posted

Check the A/C compressor clutch for resistance, If the circuit is open, the clutch coil is burned out.

 

On my 83 Mercedes 300SD, bad A/C thermostat switch caused the compressor clutch not to operate. I am not sure if the set up on Silverado is the same, but it is worth looking into. You can bypass the thermostat switch and see if the A/C clutch engages.

Posted

sounds like its cutting out on the hi side. I don't know the specs for the condesner pressure switch but I believe 270 is too high for a R12 system. it has been switched over to R134a but it still has the old switch I'd suspect.

 

 

 

you might have a clogged orfice tube, that will cause hi head pressure and low suction pressure at the same time.

 

see if you can get it to work and touch the condenser at its inlet, if its hot enough to burn you suspect the orfice tube.

 

pop the grill, discharge the system and remove the line going from the condenser to the evap, the orfice tube is usally in the condenser at that fitting.

Posted

Thanks guys. Simultaneous posting to an a/c forum has diagnosed the problem. The air gap on the compressor clutch is too large causing the clutch to fail to engage. The lightest of taps on the front of the clutch will close the gap enough to allow it to engage. It appears that this gap is adjustable on at least some models so I'm waiting to find out whether mine can be adjusted. I'll post when I know for anyone else who may follow this thread. Thanks all.

Posted

Here's the reply I got on adjusting the air gap. Thanks again to everyone.

 

"It can be adjusted. You can borrow the tools from autozone. You need the clutch plate "installer" to close the gap. Screws onto the center bolt on the shaft, then pushes the hub closer. Be careful, if you go to far, you'll need the clutch plate removal tool to pull it back out...press fit...

 

Push it in slowly until a business card is snug all around it, without the outer hub touching the pulley."

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...