Jump to content

2002 8.1 Suburban with HD hood, grill and bumper

chevy4x4trucks

Recommended Posts

tbyrne Senior Enthusiast

tbyrne

Posted
Posted

The first picture shows how it looked from the factory -

 

02suburban.jpg

 

and the next shows it with two tone paint and the HD hood, grill and bumper -

 

02suburban01.jpg

 

I still have to finish the dealer prep and install the running boards. That will be taken care of after I cover some of the other mods this week.

 

Tom

2002 Supercharged 8.1 Suburban - Project underway now!

2001 Supercharged 6.0 Suburban-15.87 @ 88.41

ClawSS Enthusiast

ClawSS

Posted
Posted

Good before and after...try and keep this theme going with each mod...ex..front shot before and after air dam, etc...

 

Lookin' good so far!!!

 

:D  :sigh:  :thumbs:  :thumbs:

Shaners Senior Enthusiast

Shaners

Posted
Posted

Tom, your pictures are mixed up, but I'm sure everyone can figure that out.  Like I said in the other thread, that HD bumper/hood/grill, really make your burb look sweet...

tbyrne Senior Enthusiast

tbyrne

Posted
Posted

Shaners: Thanks for pointing out. Just switched the two pics.

 

I'll be posting before and after shots after most mods are complete.

 

Tom

FIRECAT Enthusiast

FIRECAT

Posted
Posted

Tom,  Looks good.  I have a suggestion though.  Since you had the flares and lower body painted,  I think that it would look sweet with the front bumper top cover painted pewter also.  just imagine it for a minute, the color and body lines would actually blend right into the front of the truck.

 

Personally, I don't know why Chevy doesn't do this from the factory on the 2-tones.

 

Anyway, just a thought.

 

Later  :D

Kansas Kid Senior Enthusiast

Kansas Kid

Posted
Posted
Personally, I don't know why Chevy doesn't do this from the factory on the 2-tones.

I don't understand why GM doesn't paint the bumper caps on all of their trucks.  No matter the color, of if it is two tone or not.  Just paint the cap and the trucks would look so much better, no matter the paint scheme.  They could leave the base models black, but all the higher level models should come painted IMHO.

 

 

btw, the Suburban looks pretty cool with different front end.

chevy4x4trucks Senior Enthusiast

chevy4x4trucks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
They could leave the base models black

oh well thanks a lot.

 

Actually I'm getting a paintable bumper cover eventually.  The do just look better.  I'd also like to get a piaa air dam in black.  I don't like the grey, it really sticks out from the rest of the truck.

FIRECAT Enthusiast

FIRECAT

Posted
Posted
Actually I'm getting a paintable bumper cover eventually.

Why do you need to get a "paintable" cover??  You could just paint the stock one.  Find a body shop that will put alot of "flex" in the paint and their won't be a problem.

tbyrne Senior Enthusiast

tbyrne

Posted
Posted

I was originally going to paint the bumper cover but then I realized that the wrong one was sent (had the GMC version). It would look pretty good but I don't mind the black. I don't have all the details of what the body shop had to do but they did say that mounts had to be cut/ modified and welded so it wasn't a direct bolt-on. The hood alone would have went on with no problem though. I'll be installed a billet grill cover so that will brighten it up alot.

 

Other mods this week include - a PIAA airdam and 40 series driving lights, a set of signal mirrors, The Other Guys's long tube headers, Volant induction and the computer has been sent out to eliminate the speed govenor.

 

Tom

PS- I'll be keeping the factory parts that came off the truck.

8100HD Enthusiast

8100HD

Posted
Posted

Tom, sweet ride!!!! I would have to agree with Firecat and KansasKid about painting the front end.  The bumper cap and airdam pewter and the grill blue.  See pics in sig., it really does make a big difference. :stupid:

Kansas Kid Senior Enthusiast

Kansas Kid

Posted
Posted
They could leave the base models black

 

oh well thanks a lot.

Sorry man, but base models are meant to be one thing, and thats cheap.  Thats why they all come with black flares and the non chrome looking grill.  No reason to put a good looking bumper cap on there, it just costs more.

 

If I ever get a Silverado (in charcoal gray) that bumper cap will be getting painted, you can count on that.  They don't look all that bad being black, but they look great painted!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...