Jump to content

Regearing my rear-end


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone experienced DIY regearing your rear-end on a NBS, specifically '02 or roughly '99 and newer? What headaches would this cause...would it void any warranty or are special tools required? I'd like to swap in some 4.88's w/ a locker.

Posted

It could potentially void your entire drivetrain warranty, cost a pretty penny (you have to do the front too) and requires quite a bit of labor and a couple of special tools.

Posted

2wd so I dont need to do the front. My warranty is getting close to being up anyways, so has anyone done this on a NBS and can give me an idea what to expect? Maybe let me know what specialty tools?

Posted

It's a 2wd? Cool! Now you can just find somebody selling an entire rear end with the gears you want already in it.

 

Swap it in...Should only take a few hours and some simple hand tools (impact stuff would make it easier though).

 

That would be a TON easier (and cheaper) than actually cracking the housing open and regearing it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
2wd so I dont need to do the front. My warranty is getting close to being up anyways, so has anyone done this on a NBS and can give me an idea what to expect? Maybe let me know what specialty tools?

 

My advise - purchase the Shop Manual! No, Not Haynes or that stuff (junk). Any tools will be listed by part number and you can purchase them online. The best part is the orginal Shop Manual will tell you about any short-cuts and the possible problem you need to be looking out for during the job. I have spent the last 6 years restoring a number of GM trucks and I never start the task without the Shop Manual in hand. Best of all if you ever sell the truck it is a great selling tool that almost any buyer will love to have in hand.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

If you attempt it yourself you'll need a press and bearing spliter, along with a shim assortment, rounout indicator...

Novices best way is to buy 2 sets of new bearings, hone the center of one set out so it fits the carrier/ pinion w/o pressing it on. Set your shims/ pinion depth with the "loose brgs. Once your happy with the way the marking compound/ everything looks, have the "tight" bearings pressed on, throw it back together, double check, and away you go :crackup: .

 

My advice: Call arround to some driveline shops, Get quotes on if you pull the axle and bring it in (Most places that do it everyday love it, as it doesn't tie up a mechanics bay, and knock some labor off).

 

Or a junkyark axle swap, is also an option, although it is a gamble. I don't think GM made 1/2 ton axles with 4.88 gears. 1 ton axles, maybe...

Posted

If ur not concerned about money.. or want some really good stuff.. i would recommend checking out dynatrac... ive got there 60 series underneath my 99... its got 4.88 gears with a detroit locker.. unit costs about $5500. But if u just want it for street use and a lil off road.. a gear swap or GM rearend would work just fine. A note on the locker... sometimes is jerky when u go first accelerate.. and when turning.. its almost like a posi.. it gives some..but acts alot like a posi.. and the tires will tear up a yard when turning...lol.. but when it comes to goin thorugh mud.. alot of times i dont even gotta lock it in 4wd.. just cause of the locker.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
If you attempt it yourself you'll need a press and bearing spliter, along with a shim assortment, rounout indicator...

Novices best way is to buy 2 sets of new bearings, hone the center of one set out so it fits the carrier/ pinion w/o pressing it on. Set your shims/ pinion depth with the "loose brgs. Once your happy with the way the marking compound/ everything looks, have the "tight" bearings pressed on, throw it back together, double check, and away you go :happysad: .

 

My advice: Call arround to some driveline shops, Get quotes on if you pull the axle and bring it in (Most places that do it everyday love it, as it doesn't tie up a mechanics bay, and knock some labor off).

 

Or a junkyark axle swap, is also an option, although it is a gamble. I don't think GM made 1/2 ton axles with 4.88 gears. 1 ton axles, maybe...

 

 

This is really good advice. It truly is not hard to do, alot of people get intimidated by it. Its a 2 hour job on the rear end. IFS fronts are another story......

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,651 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...