Jump to content

Catalytic Converter Question


jrb21284

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am in need to replace my catalytic converters on my 98 GMC z71 5.7L short bed, But from what my local shop is telling me is that its not advised that i cut the old ones out and replace them, but to buy the whole setup, which looks something like this:

 

652045.jpg

 

My question is can I just replace the converters or do i have to replace the whole setup? and where can i get a decent deal on this?

Posted

Replacing the converters is possible but may be more expensive with parts and labor to have them welded in. Not to mention making sure the welds are done right. New converter assemblies are may be the way to go and are easier to install and usually come w/ a warantee. Yopu can get them from Summit Racing as well as other retailers. I would not recommend universal replacements that you use clamps to install.....just my $.02

Posted

I just had my catalytic converters replaced on my 2001 GMC Yukon XL. For the set I believe it was around $500! The truck was running rough and missing when it was cold, which turned out to be the intake manifold gasket. Let it be known that allowing your vehicle to miss for a while can cost you big. I would be interested to know what you finally found the converters for...

Posted
I just had my catalytic converters replaced on my 2001 GMC Yukon XL. For the set I believe it was around $500! The truck was running rough and missing when it was cold, which turned out to be the intake manifold gasket. Let it be known that allowing your vehicle to miss for a while can cost you big. I would be interested to know what you finally found the converters for...

 

I Found the whole setup on ebay for about 270, Autozone for 296, and just found a Magnaflow direct fit, on Summit racing for 325, but 270 is the cheapest i have found, my local shop told be it was gunna be almost 500 for the converters and 100 bucks for labor, so buying it myself seems much cheaper, now i just need to measure and make sure that this bad boy will fit :D Thanks for all the help guys

Posted
I just had my catalytic converters replaced on my 2001 GMC Yukon XL. For the set I believe it was around $500! The truck was running rough and missing when it was cold, which turned out to be the intake manifold gasket. Let it be known that allowing your vehicle to miss for a while can cost you big. I would be interested to know what you finally found the converters for...

 

I Found the whole setup on ebay for about 270, Autozone for 296, and just found a Magnaflow direct fit, on Summit racing for 325, but 270 is the cheapest i have found, my local shop told be it was gunna be almost 500 for the converters and 100 bucks for labor, so buying it myself seems much cheaper, now i just need to measure and make sure that this bad boy will fit :D Thanks for all the help guys

 

 

You have to remember, alot of these smaller shops (muffler man, etc) usually either run to the dealer for their parts, or have a mark-up in place on them. It's pretty common for them to do that. If you can get the parts and do it yourself, you're much better off.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 99 Sierra 5.3 and i'm having some of the same issues. The truck bogs when it's cold, it almost sounds like it's going to stall. Once it's been running for a while it seems to clear up I'm not sure if i'd rather the problem be the cats or the intake manifold. Any easy way of telling which it is?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...