Jump to content

Line-x And Cargo Management System


Recommended Posts

Posted

I got my truck sprayed by Line-X and installed the Cargo Management System yesterday. It was a snap to install! The rails have heavy duty toggle bolts that fit through the holes that are already in the bed of the NBS trucks, just pop them on, tighten the bolts, and your done! I also added the mounting hardware for the Trifecta Tonneau Cover. It's a good secure system, but it also precludes you from removing the sliding tie-downs without first removing the hardware for the tonneau. This is a bit of a double edged sword because it also secures the tie-downs so they don't grow legs and walk off either! Anyway, here are some pics for those who are interested in the Cargo Management System, the Trifecta Tonneau, and Line-X!

 

Here's the over the rail Line-X with the Tonneau closed:

Truck-Line-X.jpg

 

This is how the tonneau secures to the hardware at the tailgate end of the bed:

Truck-Rail-1.jpg

 

Here's a pic of the side rail:

Truck-Rail-2.jpg

 

Here's the corner at the front of the bed where the two rails meet:

Truck-Rail-3.jpg

 

And, here's the tonneau mounting hardware attached to the bed rail:

Truck-Rail-4.jpg

 

Also, for those interested in the Extang Trifecta Tonneau, it's the same price with or without the extra hardware. I suggest ordering the Tonneau for the truck with the Cargo Management System, even if you don't have it. The Tonneau is the same for both, but if your decide to add the Cargo management System later, you'll already have the hardware to do so. I ordered it through Autoanything.com for $329.99. If you sign up for Ebates (see link below my sig) you get a 5% Rebate from Autoanything on your complete order. It saved me an additional $16.50! If you sign up for Ebates (it's free) you get an additional $5.00 off your first order, so you can get a decent saving off accessories bought from Autoanything.com with Ebates! It also works at Auto Barn and a few other on-line auto accessories vendors...

 

The Cargo Management System cost me $198.00 through my local Parts Department, so it's not a bad deal. It comes with the three rails and 4 sliding tie-downs!

 

Enjoy...

Posted
Looks great ! How much for the CMS and where did you buy it?

 

Thanks! I guess you missed this in my 1st post!

 

The Cargo Management System cost me $198.00 through my local Parts Department, so it's not a bad deal. It comes with the three rails and 4 sliding tie-downs!
Posted

nice!

 

 

for anyone that can wait a while for the Cargo Mgm Sys, GM will be dropping the price in a few months. it's going from a $175 option on the 07's to a $100 option on the 08's. not enough people have been opting for it, so they hope lowering the price will entice more buyers

Posted
nice!

 

 

for anyone that can wait a while for the Cargo Mgm Sys, GM will be dropping the price in a few months. it's going from a $175 option on the 07's to a $100 option on the 08's. not enough people have been opting for it, so they hope lowering the price will entice more buyers

 

Great! Now you tell me! LOL! Oh well, hopefully it will help others!

Posted

my bad Paul58-

 

was in the thread about changes for 2008... thought everyone had read that one! ha

 

Cargo Management System (RAE) – Key promotional focus for '08 MY. Silverado's unique Cargo Management System (RAE) has been reduced in price from $175 to $95 MSRP across all 2008 model year Silverado's to increase visibility. This great system comes with 4 adjustable tie-downs that will hold up to 500lbs. per rail, and works with a multitude of GM Accessory items such as the bed divider, sliding tool box and overhead rack system to name a few. Additionally, any '08 MY Work Truck Silverado's ordered with RAE through the June consensus, DOSP prior to June 24, 2007, will be given the option for free when selected/ordered. Make sure your dealers know to take advantage of this great offer, as we can't sell them if our dealers don't stock them! Refer to GM Messenger # CHM20070416
Posted

Have you put any of the tool boxes on the CMS rails? Will the boxes fit with the cover on? I've got my NBS Line-X'd with the Pace Edwards Full Metal roll top and am doubting that the boxes will fit with the cover on.

Posted

BIG QUESTION-

won't adding bedliner & then installing rails make the rails too close together to use other CMS accessories???

 

bedliner is a few mm thick, so placing rails on top of liner, in theory, would decrease the width between the side rails... right? i was planing on getting the rails & cargo box. i figured they'd have to spray liner around rails & not under to maintain factory width so my cargo box & bed divider would still slide...

 

anyone know if i'm right or wrong..?

Posted

Hello,

My first post here. I just got a 07 Sierra Excab, Z71 4X4. Love it so far, have 1400mi on it.

I got the dealer to include an Inyati spray in liner with my deal. I took it the place and they took out the Cargo Management System and sprayed under where it mounts. I have not tried any of the available addons yet, just the tie downs. I also am hoping that the other options work with this setup.

Posted

Thanks for the pictures of the tri-fecta, as I was wondering how that worked with the cargo management system. I'm looking to order one a tri-fecta in the next couple of weeks. I have an Ultimate Linings Xtreme Liner, and they took the CMS out and reinstalled after spraying.

Posted
BIG QUESTION-

won't adding bedliner & then installing rails make the rails too close together to use other CMS accessories???

 

bedliner is a few mm thick, so placing rails on top of liner, in theory, would decrease the width between the side rails... right? i was planing on getting the rails & cargo box. i figured they'd have to spray liner around rails & not under to maintain factory width so my cargo box & bed divider would still slide...

 

anyone know if i'm right or wrong..?

 

When I picked up the Cargo Management System from the parts department at my dealer I ask that very question. The Parts Manager said they just finished installing the rails, tool box and ladder rack on a truck, after spraying in a liner (Dealer Installed, not Line-X or Rhino). This was all accomplished pre-delivery for a business customer who was getting all the goodies. They said it all fit just fine. The thickness of the lining on the side of the bed is less than an 1/8 inch thick, so tiven both sides your only talking 1/4". There's probably enough play in the system to accomodate the lining. DISCLAIMER: Now, this is what I was told and I didn't actually see the truck, so take it at that! I'd like to get the large box and a bed divider, so hopefully they told me the truth!

Posted
What is a fair price for a spray-in Liner?

 

I was quoted $429.00 for a Rhino Lining, $470.00 for the Line-X Lining and $400.00 for the Generic Liner the Dealer Sprays on. I went with Line-X based on previous experience with the product, and I like the finish better than the Rhino Liner. The dealer installed liner looked very similar to the Line-X, but was only warrantied through that Dealership. Also, I move a lot due to my job, so I needed a solid nation wide warranty, which Line-X offers.

Posted
What is a fair price for a spray-in Liner?

 

I was quoted $429.00 for a Rhino Lining, $470.00 for the Line-X Lining and $400.00 for the Generic Liner the Dealer Sprays on. I went with Line-X based on previous experience with the product, and I like the finish better than the Rhino Liner. The dealer installed liner looked very similar to the Line-X, but was only warrantied through that Dealership. Also, I move a lot due to my job, so I needed a solid nation wide warranty, which Line-X offers.

 

 

 

That dealer sounds right to me. The right hand mount (passenger side) for the tool box and cargo divider use a hinged mount. The hinge will allow for differences in width of the truck bed. It looks like about 1.5 inches of "play" available. So the liner, even a hard one, should be no problem.

 

Thanks for the great shots and closeups.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...