TheTrueMoron Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 I've read through the other topics, but I still can't figure out what will fit my needs. My truck has the stock 3.42 gears and it accelerates pretty well. I was just wondering if I should get different gears? I'm pretty sure I want different gears, but I want other opinions first before I spend most of the money that I have. I currently have 33" tires and when it comes time to replace them, I want to go up to 35's. I live in what might possibly be the traffic light capital of the world, but I spend about 10 minutes on the freeway on my commute to school every day. I also don't want to change to a gear size that would torture my drivetrain because my truck needs to last for another 10 years. Oh, and about every other week I go up to my lake house, which is about 30-40 minutes of driving through hilly terrain and my truck frequently downshifts going uphill. What's the best gear ratio for my driving needs?
Wingnut Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 Mostly city and hills with 35's? I'd say 4:10's...Maybe even 4:56's. But I like low end grunt
Norseman Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 Mostly city and hills with 35's? I'd say 4:10's...Maybe even 4:56's. But I like low end grunt Welp there goes yer fuelmileage
svensk Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 I would drop to a 30" tire and get 4.56 gears...but that's just me
Wingnut Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 Mostly city and hills with 35's? I'd say 4:10's...Maybe even 4:56's. But I like low end grunt Welp there goes yer fuelmileage You don't think that shorter gears will help with 35" tires in stop and go/city traffic?
Wingnut Posted August 11, 2007 Posted August 11, 2007 I would drop to a 30" tire and get 4.56 gears...but that's just me Wheelie time!.
thecraft Posted August 12, 2007 Posted August 12, 2007 Mostly city and hills with 35's? I'd say 4:10's...Maybe even 4:56's. But I like low end grunt Definitely. At the very least you'd want 4.10's I would drop to a 30" tire and get 4.56 gears...but that's just me Get a dump truck axle... 9.76 to 1... wholly shiite!
TheTrueMoron Posted August 14, 2007 Author Posted August 14, 2007 I hate to keep this thread going, but I've gotten confused. I've heard of differentials that are geared to 3.42, or 4.10 or whatever. If I gear up, do I have to get a new differential that has a 4.10 gearing or do I just need to get 4.10 ring and pinion gears? Also, how do I know what axle I have? I've cleaned on both sides of the differential and I still can't find any numbers.
asilverblazer Posted August 14, 2007 Posted August 14, 2007 Which ever is cheaper. Getting a whole rear axle and front differential can likely be done in your driveway. If you buy just the ring and pinion it will have to go to a drivetrain shop for the install. Ring and pinion plus labor($) to install -or- Axle and diff with your time (Mines pretty cheap for me) Well lookey there I passed 2,000 posts a while ago. Sorry everyone.
bryanhunt Posted August 15, 2007 Posted August 15, 2007 If you have a good mechanic you know and trust (with a lot of experiance) they can just get it up on the hoist and do it right there. It can be fast (because you don't have to fight with rust welded spring packs, etc) and easy. On the other hand you get a lot of other benefits to a new or remaned axle. (BTW make sure to do your front diff too if you have 4wd)
pm26 Posted August 15, 2007 Posted August 15, 2007 If you really do not want to "torture" you drivetrain, stop installing tires that were never meant for this truck. It is more than just gears that are strained when going to moster size tires. Axle shafts, bearings, etc see increased stresses and their life will be markedly reduced. Fuel economy will be adversely affected. My advice: 31 inch tires, and leave the diferential alone. Going from 33 inch to 31 inch will effectively lower your gearing to 3.73:1 equivalent from what you have now.
Wingnut Posted August 15, 2007 Posted August 15, 2007 Which ever is cheaper. Getting a whole rear axle and front differential can likely be done in your driveway. If you buy just the ring and pinion it will have to go to a drivetrain shop for the install. Ring and pinion plus labor($) to install -or- Axle and diff with your time (Mines pretty cheap for me) Well lookey there I passed 2,000 posts a while ago. Sorry everyone. Del City Pickup Parts quoted me over a GRAND for the rear axle assembly a couple of weeks ago. WTF? They used to be more like $200-$300. Don't apologize for 2,000 posts...I screwed around so much, I've now got more than EVERYBODY. I'm the one that should be apologizing If you really do not want to "torture" you drivetrain, stop installing tires that were never meant for this truck. It is more than just gears that are strained when going to moster size tires. Axle shafts, bearings, etc see increased stresses and their life will be markedly reduced. Fuel economy will be adversely affected. My advice: 31 inch tires, and leave the diferential alone. Going from 33 inch to 31 inch will effectively lower your gearing to 3.73:1 equivalent from what you have now. Where's the fun in THAT?
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