Jump to content

Just Changed Oil. Boy That Was Fun!


cwrivera

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just changed my oil on my 07 NBS. I reached a 1000 miles and wanted to go to synthetic. I have been changing my own oil since I was 16 on all my vehicles. Boy this was fun. I may be getting old but I couldnt find the oil drain. Finally found it, had all my standard tools under the truck and found it was metric size 13?? :jester::crackup: . Climbed out under the frame rubbing all that wonderful goo all over me. That coating is worthless if it rubs off that easy. Im about to say f it but climb back under lossen the nut thinking it would drain out like all other trucks I have owned. NO. It shoots out over the oil drain pan onto the floor all over the tire as if a pump was attached. icon7.gif. Then the oil looked like metal flake paint. So many metal flecks Im glad I changed it. I did like the magnet attached to the drain plug. It attracted a string of black grease like stuff.

 

Then the oil filter with only a quarter of it showing and big bubba at the factory that tightened it. :crazy: I guess they make so you cant do your own repairs anymore all the way down to not listing the oil filter number in the owners manual. Trying to save a buck turned a 1/2 hour job into 2 and no savings or fun at all.

 

 

Posted

I'd heard about not being able to find the plug in the NBS, but nothing about the squirting, or metal flakes. Sorry for your troubles. Where did you find the drain plug?

Posted

I think the factory installed oil filter is torqued to like 250#'s - it was a byatcht to get off - well, not for me, the grease monkey at the shop .. :-)

 

500 Mile oil change to syth .. esters - long stringy molecules help with lubrication over dino-oil

 

then comes the debate over miles / oil life sensor change

 

there is an al-gore-ythm ( outside temp / miles driven ) is given a number of which oil has a specific amount - short drives in winter will shorten its life spanel / long drives in summer will last longer ( california summer / traffic aside )

Posted

My first was a PITA. The plug was easy enough for me to find and I read previously about the oil geyser so I knew to move the pan further away. What I didn't know about the filter, that was the worst experience I've ever had with a filter. At 1200 was my first and there was a good amount of metal on the plug. The second oil change at 5000mi went alot smoother. I bought a filter wrench at AZ that fits perfect. There was also hardly any metal in the second change.

 

Mike

Posted

I too change my own oil. I made the switch to synthetic at the first oil change. I did not have a problem with the oil filter, but that darn drain plug is a p1sser. Oil all over. So, the next time I changed the oil, I installed a Fumoto valve with a nipple end. Next time, I just have to put a temporary tube on the end of the nipple, direct it into the drain pan on the floor, and open the valve. No mess. Had one on my last truck and it was great. You might want to consider going that route.

Posted
I too change my own oil. I made the switch to synthetic at the first oil change. I did not have a problem with the oil filter, but that darn drain plug is a p1sser. Oil all over. So, the next time I changed the oil, I installed a Fumoto valve with a nipple end. Next time, I just have to put a temporary tube on the end of the nipple, direct it into the drain pan on the floor, and open the valve. No mess. Had one on my last truck and it was great. You might want to consider going that route.

 

That a great Idea. I need to get that fumoto valve and tube for the second time. The Drain plug is loacted on the passenger side of the oil pan. Its silver and matches the pan color. Metric size 13 :crazy:

Posted

The previous models pi$$ oil like that too (unless it's even worse on the NBS, but it's pretty bad on my '06). I read about it on this site before I changed the oil for the first time so I knew what I was getting myself into. I made a catch funnel out of a big tide bottle (cut the bottom of the bottle off) and divert the jet of oil using the funnel until it slows down enough to drop into the pan.

 

The first oil change was free at the dealership so I don't know how much the factory oil filter was torqued.

 

I have a Z-71 so it has the skid plates. When you remove the oil filter it leaks oil all over the skid plate. Oh what fun.

 

BTW don't forget to grease up all 11 fittings (if it is 4x4 and it is the same for the NBS). Although if it's your first change the boots are probably still full anyhow.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

This valve does look like it would be good but I like the idea of a magnetic drain plug to colect metal particles. The valve would make it much less of a hassle though :cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
The previous models pi$$ oil like that too (unless it's even worse on the NBS, but it's pretty bad on my '06). I read about it on this site before I changed the oil for the first time so I knew what I was getting myself into. I made a catch funnel out of a big tide bottle (cut the bottom of the bottle off) and divert the jet of oil using the funnel until it slows down enough to drop into the pan.

 

The first oil change was free at the dealership so I don't know how much the factory oil filter was torqued.

 

I have a Z-71 so it has the skid plates. When you remove the oil filter it leaks oil all over the skid plate. Oh what fun.

 

BTW don't forget to grease up all 11 fittings (if it is 4x4 and it is the same for the NBS). Although if it's your first change the boots are probably still full anyhow.

I only found 2 fittings on my nnbs

Posted
So, the next time I changed the oil, I installed a Fumoto valve with a nipple end.

 

Remember the thread size or valve part #? :banghead:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...