Drive Shaft Wobble - Gmt900

[unit731]

Well, as some know, I picked up my new 2008 regular cab long bed 4x4.

 

Fit and finish excellent. In my haste of enthusiasm, I neglected to actually drive the truck BEFORE paying for it. Lesson learned.

 

It was late in the afternoon, and once on highway the vibration became pronounced at 50-60 MPH but at all speeds. So home I went. Drove truck on and off for a week before I actually called for 'warranty work' appointment.

 

The dealer made an appointment for next morning at 9:00 AM. Service Advisor told me that a mechanic would ride with me so that he could see, hear, feel, what I was talking about.

 

Mechanic told me that yes, there is a problem. And that he would ask/tell Service Advisor that I should get a 'loaner' car. I did get one.

 

I received a telephone call about 4 hours later stating that truck had been fixed and that it was the drive shaft. The drive shaft had been replaced from another new truck on lot as none in stock.

 

I turned in keys from loaner car and received my receipt for the warranty work. I also purchased a spare key: Dealer Price - $32.00. I have no idea if the local hardware store can make this key for two bucks or not.

 

Anyway, off I go and truck is/rides smoothly. Problem solved.

[Woodcutter]

Well, as some know, I picked up my new 2008 regular cab long bed 4x4.

 

Fit and finish excellent. In my haste of enthusiasm, I neglected to actually drive the truck BEFORE paying for it. Lesson learned.

 

It was late in the afternoon, and once on highway the vibration became pronounced at 50-60 MPH but at all speeds. So home I went. Drove truck on and off for a week before I actually called for 'warranty work' appointment.

 

The drive shaft had been replaced from another new truck on lot as none in stock.

 

Anyway, off I go and truck is/rides smoothly. Problem solved.

 

What exactly was wrong with the shaft? The driveshaft of my '99 would really vibrate between 35-40 but would smooth out otherwise.

 

I too purchased a new truck without test driving it first, but none of the problems that eventually surfaced would've been noticed when it was brand new anyhow.

[unit731]

Dumb me. I didn't actually ask. Should have as that is how one learns. Another lesson learned!

 

I should have asked to see it or was it placed onto the other new truck in lot so that they can at least move that one around?

 

I don't know how a drive shaft is manufactured. Is it pieces welded together? Is it one piece that is 'machined'?

[Woodcutter]

Dumb me. I didn't actually ask. Should have as that is how one learns. Another lesson learned!

 

I should have asked to see it or was it placed onto the other new truck in lot so that they can at least move that one around?

 

I don't know how a drive shaft is manufactured. Is it pieces welded together? Is it one piece that is 'machined'?

 

 

Do you have an aluminum shaft or steel? Not that I've paid that much attention to it, but my alum shaft looks like it's one piece.

[MS3DALE]

I also purchased a spare key: Dealer Price - $32.00. I have no idea if the local hardware store can make this key for two bucks or not.

 

No,Its not a "Two Dollar" key,It has a resistor chip in it for the "PASS-Key III+" theft deterrent system. You also have to program it,as I'm sure you found out.

 

Heres some information on it from the owners manual...

 

Document ID# 1579483

2008 GMC Truck Sierra - 4WD

 

PASS-Key® III+ Electronic Immobilizer Operation

Your vehicle has PASS-Key® III+ (Personalized Automotive Security System) theft-deterrent system. PASS-Key® III+ is a passive theft-deterrent system.

 

The system is automatically armed when the key is removed from the ignition.

 

The system is automatically disarmed when the key is turned to ON/RUN, ACC/ACCESSORY or START from the LOCK/OFF position.

 

You do not have to manually arm or disarm the system.

 

The security light will come on if there is a problem with arming or disarming the theft-deterrent system.

 

When the PASS-Key® III+ system senses that someone is using the wrong key, it prevents the vehicle from starting. Anyone using a trial-and-error method to start the vehicle will be discouraged because of the high number of electrical key codes.

 

If the engine does not start and the security light on the instrument panel cluster comes on when trying to start the vehicle, there may be a problem with your theft-deterrent system. Turn the ignition off and try again.

 

If the engine still does not start, and the key appears to be undamaged, try another ignition key. At this time, you may also want to check the fuse, see Fuses and Circuit Breakers . If the engine still does not start with the other key, your vehicle needs service. If your vehicle does start, the first key may be faulty. See your dealer/retailer who can service the PASS-Key® III+ to have a new key made. In an emergency, contact Roadside Assistance.

 

It is possible for the PASS-Key® III+ decoder to learn the transponder value of a new or replacement key. Up to 10 keys may be programmed for the vehicle. The following procedure is for programming additional keys only. If all the currently programmed keys are lost or do not operate, you must see your dealer/retailer or a locksmith who can service PASS-Key® III+ to have keys made and programmed to the system.

 

See your dealer/retailer or a locksmith who can service PASS-Key® III+ to get a new key blank that is cut exactly as the ignition key that operates the system.

 

To program the new additional key:

 

Verify that the new key has a stamped on it.

Insert the original, already programmed, key in the ignition and start the engine. If the engine will not start, see your dealer/retailer for service.

After the engine has started, turn the key to LOCK/OFF, and remove the key.

Insert the new key to be programmed and turn it to the ON/RUN position within five seconds of turning the ignition to the LOCK/OFF position in Step 3.

The security light will turn off once the key has been programmed.

 

Repeat Steps 1 through 4 if additional keys are to be programmed.

If you lose or damage your PASS-Key® III+ key, see your dealer/retailer or a locksmith who can service PASS-Key® III+ to have a new key made.

 

Do not leave the key or device that disarms or deactivates the theft deterrent system in the vehicle.