Switching To Synthetic

[dhale16]

Would someone please describe to me how to properly flush my engine on my 2005 HD CC LB 4x4 whith the 6.0 so I can change to synthetic oil. I am planning on using Amsoil products and understand they have an engine flush product. has anyone ever used it and how did you do it?? is it really necessary?? What can I do to upgrade my automatic transmission oil??

[dewfpo]

Would someone please describe to me how to properly flush my engine on my 2005 HD CC LB 4x4 whith the 6.0 so I can change to synthetic oil. I am planning on using Amsoil products and understand they have an engine flush product. has anyone ever used it and how did you do it?? is it really necessary?? What can I do to upgrade my automatic transmission oil??

 

There is absolutely NO reason to flush an engine that's been reasonably maintained. Just change to synthetic oil and you will be fine. You can also changeout your atf to synthetic as well.

 

DEWFPO

[2500ak]

You could always pour somesea foam in the current oil, that'll clean any varnish or carbon out when you dump the old oil, but with a truck as new as 05 it won't make much difference.

[davzog]

I agree....I have switched to synthetic in many used vehicles and always just changed the oil and filter...unless you engine is full of goo, junk and sludge (in which case the oil had not been change anyway), you will be a-ok...

 

I would recommend you get the engine hot and let it drain completely....since ANY synthetic will mix with any dino oil, the amount of old oil left in the vehicle is very minimal and not enough to be concerned about.

[2500ak]

Good thinkning, just watch out for that hot oil. I get mine pretty close to operating temp but these oil pans were deisgned with that rear sump and such which causes the oil to sort of fire in a jet, it sweeps any deposits from the bottom of the oil pan, but its not too easy on the skin. The less regualr oil in the engine the better. You won't be disapointed, synthetic is awesome. If you are worried about varnish or carbon, then just put some seafoam in the crank case and let it get things nice and clean.

[masterp2]

Good thinkning, just watch out for that hot oil. I get mine pretty close to operating temp but these oil pans were deisgned with that rear sump and such which causes the oil to sort of fire in a jet, it sweeps any deposits from the bottom of the oil pan, but its not too easy on the skin. The less regualr oil in the engine the better. You won't be disapointed, synthetic is awesome. If you are worried about varnish or carbon, then just put some seafoam in the crank case and let it get things nice and clean.

 

if there is more than 60,000 miles on it, or if it was used for errands, grocery getter, just change the oil.

 

THEN change the filter again in 500 miles. If there are any significant deposits, you will nee the new filter, as syn can act as a flush over time

[Freyguy]

I flushed mine with the Amsoil when I changed. I was a bit over 60k at the time. I did 3k dino oil changes, but figured it wasn't a bad idea. I used the Amsoil flush and just put it in with the oil (6.0L always burns a bit by the time of oil change) and ran it like it says on the bottle.

[dhale16]

I flushed mine with the Amsoil when I changed. I was a bit over 60k at the time. I did 3k dino oil changes, but figured it wasn't a bad idea. I used the Amsoil flush and just put it in with the oil (6.0L always burns a bit by the time of oil change) and ran it like it says on the bottle.

 

 

thanks for the advice, if i put seafoam in it before i change the oil , should i drain some of the oil out first, so i don't over fill?? then i guess i just run the engine for a while and then drain? can i get a proper automatic transmission fluid switch to syn at home or do i need to take it to a shop?? I plan to change the gasket on the pan when i change to syn trans. fluid.

[2500ak]

I flushed mine with the Amsoil when I changed. I was a bit over 60k at the time. I did 3k dino oil changes, but figured it wasn't a bad idea. I used the Amsoil flush and just put it in with the oil (6.0L always burns a bit by the time of oil change) and ran it like it says on the bottle.

 

 

thanks for the advice, if i put seafoam in it before i change the oil , should i drain some of the oil out first, so i don't over fill?? then i guess i just run the engine for a while and then drain? can i get a proper automatic transmission fluid switch to syn at home or do i need to take it to a shop?? I plan to change the gasket on the pan when i change to syn trans. fluid.

 

 

Nah, shouldn't hurt anything. Once I got sticking lifter in my truck and put two full cans into the crank case when it was completly full (Excessive I know, but I was in a bad mood and that lifter was bothering me), no negative effects. I'd recomend a full can some people recomend only 1/3 for higher milage vehicals because all the varnish and carbon deposits will be dissolved off and suspended in the oil. I did this on mine at 90,000 miles, oil came out a thick black sluge. Now the synthetic takes about a week and a half before it even gets dark enough to tell the level on the dipsitc at a glance.

[Black02Silverado]

You can switch over to synthetic with no problems. AMSOIL has a flush that they recommend to use. I tell most of my customers to use it if they do not know the condition of their engine and or if it has over 70k miles on it. How to do it is simple. Get an inexpensive oil filter, like the Wal-Mart Super Tech filter, they are $2.42. here, take your oil filter off, put the new Super Tech filter on, pure the bottle of AMSOIL engine flush in the engine, start it up and let it idle for 25 minutes, "Do not drive it", then just drain the oil and put on a new filter and your ready to go. Putting on a new clean filter for the flush removes enough oil so that the bottle of engine flush will not over fill the crank case. Also it is a new fresh filter to collect anything that the flush cleans out. But like stated above if the engine is well maintained there shouldn't be any problems of serious build up inside.

 

On the transmission fluid change. The easiest way and lightest on the pocket book is to drop the transmission pan, clean it the magnet and install a new transmission filter, put the pan back up and fill it back up with synthetic. Then at your next oil change just drain your transmission pan and top back up with fresh synthetic. Change it two more times along with your engine oil and you will pretty much have exchanged the entire fluid over to synthetic and it isn't as expensive on your wallet all at one time and achieves the same results. If you want to do a complete flush of your transmission it is easy and you can read up on how to do it here.

 

Hope that helps.

[cvandegna]

On the transmission fluid change. The easiest way and lightest on the pocket book is to drop the transmission pan, clean it the magnet and install a new transmission filter, put the pan back up and fill it back up with synthetic. Then at your next oil change just drain your transmission pan and top back up with fresh synthetic. Change it two more times along with your engine oil and you will pretty much have exchanged the entire fluid over to synthetic and it isn't as expensive on your wallet all at one time and achieves the same results. If you want to do a complete flush of your transmission it is easy and you can read up on how to do it here.

 

Hope that helps.

Easier on the pocketbook? That's 4 tranny fluid changes?!?! Do the full replacement, with torque converter the 1st time and be done with it. It's 14 qts for the full change 4L80E vs like 7-8 for just the pan drop. Plus you get dirty one time - and you will get dirty thanks to no drain plug on the transmission pan.