Jump to content

I Need Some Opinions


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just recieved an early christmas present. A Pioneer DEH P4900ib Headunit too replace my DEH P44. I now have a Jensen 200 watt amp and a (no laughing) bass tube. Bought it cheap from a friend 20 dollars. I doesn't sound bad I'm not into having everyone hearing my music just like having full sounding music. Here is my question can I replace the woofer in the tube and get a little better sound. What would you guys recommend besides a new setup.

Posted

Should be a nice setup. Pioneer makes some of the best HU's, easy to use, nice features, and most important, they sound great. The Bazooka's actually aren't bad. But I thought they all had built-in amps? I actually used to have 2 of the 10" bazooka subs in my old Grand Prix; and once setup correctly, they sounded pretty darn good. I also got them dirt cheap. :D

 

Not sure about the Jensen amp (never used them), but are you going to use it for the sub? But if it gets the job done, I don't see a problem. Those Bazooka's don't normally need much power at all. Assuming it's not already built-in of course.

Posted

Amp in tube did not work so I wired it up to that amp. Pioneer does make a nice headunit was surprised the difference between the old one and the new one. I would love to be able to be able to find 2 MTX 10 truck boxes but I am not sure if they make them anymore.

Posted

I didn't see any mention of what size tube you have. Replacing the speaker/woofer is something I too have wondered about. As for Bazooka, they make both amp'd and passive tubes. Before I built my box for my sub I was using two 6" passive bazooka tubes. The can really add to the sound without spending alot of money.

Posted

you can replace the sub in that tube .. you just have to shop around and find one that will work in the airspace for the tube ...

 

as for the amp ... since it is a 'low quality' brand ... its power output is way over-rated ... so you will also need to shop for a sub that has a lower rms power need .. so that you are not under-driving the sub with that amp (which can cause as much damage as sending to much power to it ..)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...