Jump to content

Would It Look Odd If...


Recommended Posts

Posted

I swapped my standard 18' Z71 wheel and tire for the 20' wheel and tire that comes on the majority of other 2007 Silverados? The reason I'm asking is because I've got the Z71 truck and I'm not sure how this setup would look with the larger shocks and the current tires are the offroading ones so would it look awkward with the larger wheels and the non-offroading tires so I'm asking the experts. I believe I might have an opportunity to swap. What do you think?

Posted
I swapped my standard 18' Z71 wheel and tire for the 20' wheel and tire that comes on the majority of other 2007 Silverados? The reason I'm asking is because I've got the Z71 truck and I'm not sure how this setup would look with the larger shocks in the rear so I'm asking the experts. What do you think?

I'm no expert but here's what I think.

 

The 18 inchers are more Z71 like. I actually think the 18 inch Z71 wheel is about the best looking OEM wheel. 20 inchers might not look funny with some all terrains on them.

Posted

^thats what I was thinking, but this person who might be willing to trade wants the offroading tires that are currently on my 18' wheels so if I traded I would have to go out and buy some new tires which I don't really have the money to right now.

Posted
I swapped my standard 18' Z71 wheel and tire for the 20' wheel and tire that comes on the majority of other 2007 Silverados? The reason I'm asking is because I've got the Z71 truck and I'm not sure how this setup would look with the larger shocks and the current tires are the offroading ones so would it look awkward with the larger wheels and the non-offroading tires so I'm asking the experts. I believe I might have an opportunity to swap. What do you think?

 

 

i think that combo looks great actually.

a dealer near my house does it alot...their very own chrome package, chrome mirror caps, grille, step bars, door handles and 20 inch chrome wheels. many of the truck they do it on are z-71 4x4's. the z71 off raod package isn tthat much higher than the z85/82 package. a hardly noticable difference in shock size ..

Posted

For a Z71, I'd stick with the 18's. They look great with some BFG A/T's and best of all, they're functional. :)

 

Of course nothing wrong with 20's and BFG's (or any A/T tire), it'll look great. Just keep in mind that the larger tire is generally more expensive, you have less side-wall for off-roading, and you lose some ride quality.

Posted

Bigger wheels = bigger gas bill

 

He may say he wants them because of the tires, but he may be looking to shift his gas bill to you! If you do it -- make him buy you new tires.

Posted
Bigger wheels = bigger gas bill

 

He may say he wants them because of the tires, but he may be looking to shift his gas bill to you! If you do it -- make him buy you new tires.

 

Can you quantify this?

Posted

I have 20's with 305/50R20 Toyo Open Country A/T's on my Z71 and I love them. The ride is just a tad more harsh but that's just what happens. As far as looking funny on a Z71 is concerned, if you were to take the Z71 sticker off the side, you wouldn't know the difference between the Z71 and a normal truck. Go for it if you don't need the AT tire. If you do and you don't feel like ponying up for new tires, stick with the 18's, they're a solid looking wheel.

 

Daddy

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...