The How To Guide On Installing Tnr800

[obfirefighter22]

Ok I've had alot of people message me asking how I installed my head unit, and the info is out there but in bit and pieces here and there and can get frustrating. I gathered all the info up that I used and decided to try and put it all in one place. WARNING!!! Very long, but basically everything is covered(not going to say everything youll need to know is in here because someone will find out a question not covered some how)So here go's...

 

Also some of this is from DURAtotheMAX over at diesalplace.com furom, he breaks down the differences between the LUX amp and NON-LUX very well and has tons of more useful information. He gives instructions on how to add the lux amp and the 6 disc slave as well, which is useful, but I didn't do this. I will put at the end of my write up his instructions on how to do the amp and 6 disc slave if you want to do the upgrade. I just figured it would be easier to break it down so you can go exactly where you need to go for what you need to do. I just went through it and added and taken some things out(I also didn't have this much info available to me when I did the swap).. He did a great write up and pretty much covered everything I've wrote in preparing this.

 

I will also post some pictures, and give links to pages that have all the pictures.

 

 

TOPICS IN ORDER(OR INDEX:/)

 

-1. FAQ'S

-2. DESCRIPTION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN THE LUX AND NON-LUX VEHICLES

-3. DESCRIPTION OF THE NON-LUX AN LUX AMP, AND HOW THEY ARE DIFFERENT

 

 

■VERY LONG, BUT WILL DEFF EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCES IF YOUR CURIOUS ON WHAT THE DIFFERENCES ARE AND THINKING ABOUT DOING THE CONVERSION. YOU WILL UNDERSTAND AT THE END.

 

-4. PART NUMBERS

 

■ALL PART NUMBERS(non-lux and lux nav units, antennas, amps, 6 disc slave, audiopilot)

 

-5. WHERE TO GET THE PARTS

-6. INSTALLATION OF THE TNR800

-7. THEFTLOCK STEPS

 

 

■ALSO THE THEFTLOCK BYPASS

 

-8. VSS WIRE DESCRIPTION

-9. VSS INSTALLATION IF NOT ALREADY IN VEHICLE(pictures included, more in links)

-10. VSS WIRE BYPASS TO ENTER DESTINATIONS IN WHILE VEHICLES IN MOTION(pictures included)

-11. 6 DISC SLAVE INSTALLATION(some pictures included, more in links section)

-12. LUX AMP INSTALL

-13. WAYS TO DISPLAY DVD OVER NAV SCREEN(pictures included)

-14. LINKS(additional amp wiring info, and additional pictures, and TNR800 installation pictures and guide)

 

I will also make some important notes/pointers throughout the post red, so check them out.

 

 

IMPORTANT

 

FIRST OFF BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!

IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PUTTING THE LUX NAV UNIT IN YOUR VEHICLE AND DON'T HAVE THE LUX AMP, THEN YOU HAVE TO DO THE NON-LUX TO LUX AMP CONVERSION!!! DON'T BUY AND THEN BE MAD!!

 

 

1. FAQ's:

 

 

-Whats a TNR? TNR is the Touch Screen Nav Unit. An INR is non touch screen.

-Will my steering wheel controls work as they did before? YES

-Will XM radio work as before with no programming/activation needed? YES

-Will OnStar still work as before? YES

-Will the RSE/factory DVD player work as before? YES

-Will the RSA (rear seat audio) controls work as before? YES

-Can I add the 6-disc Escalade/Denali CD changer to both LUX and NON-Lux nav units? YES

-Does the Nav unit use the OnStar antenna? NO, it uses a separate antenna as stated

 

 

2. DESCRIPTION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN THE LUX AND NON-LUX VEHICLES

 

 

In short, GM makes two different Bose speaker systems for the GMT-800 series vehicles: The Bose “Premium” (non-lux) and the Bose “Luxury” (lux). The non-lux system is what you get with an SLT/LT Silverado/Sierra/Suburban/Yukon/YukonXL/Tahoe. It utilizes a mid-range speaker in each door, a tweeter in each A-pillar (the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers, and they are given a capacitor to act as a high pass cross-over) and a 6.5” dual voice-coil subwoofer mounted in the center console. If your door speakers say “Bose” on them, you have this system. SUV’s also have a speaker in each D-pillar as well (these mid-high range d-pillar speakers are wired in parallel with the rear door speakers on the NON-lux systems and on the LUX systems, they are wired into a separate channel on the amplifier, so they can reiceive different signals than the rear door speakers). Now, Denali’s and Escalade’s have the Bose

“Luxury”, or [RPO code] “Y91” Bose speaker system. The great part is, that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [RPO code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glovebox sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5” sub, so it wont blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5” sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (DigitalSignal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; ive heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different soundfield/reverberation/environment settings, such as “Driver”, “Spacious”, “Passenger”, and “Rear”…it is a “Smart” amp. The lux amp also is fully integrated with the vehicle’s Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module…basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the “Dumb amp” because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that’s the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system…a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp.

 

 

3. DESCRIPTION OF THE NON-LUX AN LUX AMP, AND HOW THEY ARE DIFFERENT

 

 

THIS IS THE AWESOME DESCRIPTION WROTE BY DURAtothemax

 

OK...now for the big "book" of info that I have written for people!!

First ill just describe how the lux amp actually works and why it is

much better than the "Premium" amp. You dont HAVE to read it, but just

in case you are curious...and it kinda helps with the install to have

an understanding of what you are actually doing (versus just following

the instructions).

 

Here is exactly how the non-lux and lux amps differ and why the LUX amp

sounds better than the premium amp. So normally in an aftermarket

amp/speaker system, you have a head unit (the radio), an amp, and

speakers. The head unit sends a "low

level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output

"slightly" as the volume knob is turned up or down. The amp takes this

signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level

signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume knob, the "low

level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies

this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too

confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn

on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when

the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a

relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.

We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",

because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and

just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it

is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could

hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it

loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of

interference because GM doesnt think and they just bundle the thin

wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio

signal passing thru the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too

interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the

more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about

that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to

the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a

full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain

was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even

if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you

have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you

have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's knob as the volume

knob on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as

the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the

valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water willcome out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's knob. SO... the

valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order

for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the

faucet's (radio's) knob. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper

quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked

up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even

tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does

not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!)

 

 

NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.

It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP

(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the

vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over

the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in

"lux" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that

does NOT change. EVen when you turn the volume and play with the

fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply

bass or treble changes, it doesnt fade/balance it, nothing!! It just

sends a constant low level left and right (it doesnt send rear

signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's

DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the

amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to

receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range

information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a lux vehicle,

you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from

the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that

says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases

the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because

remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The

amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear

speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over

the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same

thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to

increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ

for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio

signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of

interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,

think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of

keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's

knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low

and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with

the "gain" control on the LUX amp. ANDDD thats why the LUX amp sounds

50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing

about the Lux amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or

anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can

program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the

sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size

cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed

differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller

extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp

from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)

Sorry again for the lonnngggg description, but now you're an

expert in the verry confusing field of Bose/GM speaker and

entertainment systems!!! And now you can wire in a lux amp, make your

truck sound like a *REAL* Bose system.

 

 

4. PART NUMBERS FOR THE DIFFERENT NAV UNITS AVAILABLE:

 

 

NOTE: If your planning on installing just the NON-LUX NAV TNR, then all you will need is the NAV part number and the GPS antenna part number, not the amp or cdx, or audiopilot(which should be in most vehicles already). Just skip these.

 

 

RPO CODE Y91 or Y92 LUX TRUCKS

 

Newest revision LUX TNR-------15800001

Second Revision LUX TNR-------15230099

First Revision LUX TNR---------10377531

 

 

RPO CODE UQ7 NON-LUX TRUCKS

 

Newest revision non-lux TNR-----15800000

second Revision non-lux TNR---10379287

First Revision non-lux TNR-------10377287

Alt. Revision non-lux TNR---------15120706

 

 

NON TOUCH SCREEN UNITS

 

Newest Revision LUX INR--------15204335

First Revision LUX INR------------15204334

Newest Revision non-lux INR----15108241

 

 

RPO CODE UQ3 or UQ5 TRUCKs

 

Non-Bose TNR ----------15811289

 

 

Lux Amplifier numbers:

 

(all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)

 

2003-early 2004 Escalade amp--15199992

2005 Escalade amp-----------------15114445

2003-2005 Denali amp-------------15114454

2003 Hummer H2 amp-------------xxxxx044 (I forget the first numbers)

Early 2004 Hummer H2 amp-----15191601

(unknown application) amp-------15112662

(unknown application) amp-------15199884

(I have this amp on my list as a "bad amp" but Im not sure why-----------15054675

it is confirmed as working with the nav unit; its the amp im running in my truck)-DURAtotheMAX

 

 

GPS antenna:

 

First revision antenna--------------15207447

Latest revision antenna------------15135178

 

 

"AUDIOPILOT" NOISE COMPENSATION MICROPHONE:

 

Noise compensation mic----------25705367

Wiring connector on mic----------12052833

Mating connector for mic----------12085481

 

 

DENALI/ESCALADE STYLE CD CHANGER AND ASOC. PARTS:

 

6-disc slot load CD changer------15055250

Alternate part # CD changer------15122617

Alternate part # CD changer------15207055

CD changer wiring harness-------15312903

 

 

5. WHERE TO BUY THE DIFFERENT PARTS...

 

 

Ok I got mine off ebay from a seller who took theirs out of a brand new Envoy, If I remember correctly. Its still had the factory cover film on the screen, the only thing I to do is have the dealer reprogram the unit, which I'll give info later on how to do this. The unit itself only cost me $450 when the bidding was done. It was the TNR 15800000 NON-LUX. I then found the antenna for under $100(don't remember the exact price). I got a great deal on my unit and thankfully was like the seller described. Just look and make sure you're comfortable buying from the seller.

 

If you want to save a lot of money, you could go for the “INR” (Integrated Navigation Radio…non-touchscreen). These can be had for about 600 dollars or less. If you don’t want to go thru the hassle of doing the luxury sound upgrade, you can also keep your stock non-lux Bose amplifier and get a different part number nav unit that is compatible with that. The two are NOT interchangeable!! They look identical, but are different inside.

 

 

The amp I highly recommend buying on ebay. Two reasons... the Lux

amps, when new, need to get an initial programming with a Tech II

diagnostics/program tool. (BTW, the amplifiers, both lux and Premium,

are located in the center console underneath the main storage bin)

This initial programming tells the amp what model/size vehicle its in

so it can adjust the DSP (digital signal/sound processor) to make the

sound correct for the size cabin its in. For example, an Escalade EXT

cabin is much smaller than an Escalade ESV cabin, so the amp needs to

be adjusted for best sound. This programmig can be tricky if the

vehicle that the amp is being programmed into is not a factory LUX

vehicle. Understand? Like the amp will say to itself "hey...somebody

is trying to program me into a Silverado...im not meant to go into a

Silverado...something is wrong here..." For this reason, people

sometimes have difficulty in programming the amps. H2 lux amps are

particularly picky, no one knows why. After reprogramming they just

tend to randomly go dead after a little while. Denali and Escalade

amps seem to be OK but then theres the problem of convincing your

dealer to actually program and do something thats not in his magic

instruction manual from GM. People have had trouble

convincing their dealers to perform the programming. BUT if

you buy an amp used on ebay for example, it has already been

initialized and programmed so its plug and play (besides rewiring the

connectors...). So my advice is to buy the amp on ebay. Much much

cheaper and you wont have to deal with the [potential] hassle of

programming it. As for warentee, beleive it or not, GM parts direct

really has no warentee i dont think. So you are no better off than if

you bought it on ebay.

 

 

6. FINALLY ONTO THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

http://ppd.delphi.com/pdf/consumer/tnr800_install_guide.pdf

 

Ok above is a link to the direct delphi TNR800 Installation guide(really hard to find believe it or not). It tells and shows you step by step how to take the dash apart, and also how to install the GPS antenna. Some computers can't pull up the page, so Ill actually give the instructions here. But I would go to the page if you can as it is very handy to print out, and I found it very usefull. I can't copy the pictures from the site, so thats the only part of their instructions I'm not including

 

 

ALL THE STEPS,(very easy to do):

 

1. Remove the 30 amp fuse from the under hood electrical center.

The fuse is located in the bottom right corner of the box if you are standing on the driver’s

side of the vehicle looking toward the engine.

You can also look on the under side of the lid for location diagram.

 

2. Disconnect the Battery Negative Cable.

 

WARNING: If you don’t, the vehicle could accidentally start and move during this procedure and result in serious personal injury,including death.

 

3. Make sure the parking brake is engaged.

 

4. Remove Dash Bezel - Gently Snaps Off.

 

■ Tilt the steering wheel down and put the gear selector into 1st with the engine off.

 

■ With your finngers, start from the top right corner (corner above the radio - see picture) and

 

gently pull out

 

■ Continue around the top of the bezel and work to the sides and bottom.

NOTICE: Be careful when removing the bezel over the Emergency Light Switch located on top of the

steering column. This can scratch the bezel very easily. Put gear selector back into Park.

 

5. Remove the Radio.

 

■ Remove the three screws and hold the radio in place. The screws are the only thing holding the radio in place, so hold the radio once the screws are removed.

 

■ Turn the key to the “On” position (with the engine off) and put the gear selector in 1st.

WARNING - Make sure the parking brake is set. If you don’t the vehicle could move and cause per-

sonal injury or damage to the vehicle.

 

■ Pull out the radio and disconnect the connections in the rear.

IMPORTANT: Some vehicles may have the wires caught on the dash structure behind the radio. This

prevents pulling out the radio and disconnecting the plugs. If your vehicle has this issue, you can ac-

cess the plugs by going through the AC controls area below the radio. Once the radio is removed, you

can maneuver the harnesses releasing it from the dash structure. There is enough wire that allows

the plugs to come out even with the front of the dash.

 

■ Coaxial Antenna Lead (pull perpendicular to the radio to remove).

 

■ XM/DVD/AUX plug (12-pin, if equipped).

 

■ Main radio connector (24-pin). 5.

6. Put the gear selector in Park and turn the key to the “Off” position.

 

7. Remove the driver and passenger side A-Pillar trim.

 

■ There is only one clip at the top of the trim piece.

 

■ Pull on both sides diagonally away from the pillar.

 

■ You may have to remove part of the weather-stripping from around the door frame to get a

 

good grip on the A-Pillar trim.

 

■ To remove the weather-stripping, pull straight down to the middle of the door frame.

8. Remove the fuse box trim from both sides of the dash.

 

9. With a flat head screwdriver or flat tool, pry out both A/C vents on the passenger’s side of the dash.

 

■ Be careful not to scratch the dash trim or break the vent bezels with the prying tool.

 

■ You may want to wrap the tool in cloth to prevent damage to the dash parts.

10. Remove the Passenger Assist Handle.

 

 

■ Reach inside the A/C vent holes and and press the release tabs on both sides of the handle.

 

■ Pull the handle away from the dash to remove the handle.

11. Remove the Top Dash Trim.

 

 

■ Remove two screws from each side of the dash.

 

■ Remove two screws from the passenger A/C vent location.

 

■ Remove remaining screws from the front of the dash trim.

 

■ Release the clips from each side of the dash by pulling out slightly.

 

■ Pull out on the dash trim above the passenger’s airbag (there are three clips in this location

 

that must be released before the trim can be removed).

 

■ Lift up the dash trim to disconnect the ambient light sensor.

NOTICE: When lifting up on the dash trim, be careful of the ambient light sensor wiring. There is not

much slack in the wiring and it could be torn from the sensor very easily.

 

■ Twist the ambient light housing (1/4 twist) to release the sensor from the dash pad.

 

This must be done before bringing the pad forward to remove.

 

NOTE ON STEP 11: ONE NOTE OF CAUTION... Be

careful of the ambient light sensor (the little black bulb sticking up

on the front center of the dash top), the cord is really short and

when I pulled off my cover, I broke the stupid thing!! Luckilly its

only like a 25$ part. Before you pull the dash off, turn the ambient light clockwise about an 8th of a turn and it should release.

 

12. Install GPS Antenna. (picture included)

 

■ Locate the screw slightly forward and to the right (passenger side) of the radio housing area.

 

■ Remove the screw from the dash metal support.

 

■ Install GPS antenna and install the screw.

13. Route GPS antenna wiring under A/C pipe and to the radio area.

 

14. Install new Navigation Radio.

 

■ Connect radio connectors, GPS antenna, radio antenna and XM/DVD connector (if equipped).

 

■ Install three screws. 14.

15. Connect Battery Negative Cable.

 

16. Install 30A fuse in under-hood fuse box.

 

17. Test

 

■ Make sure parking brake is set.

 

■ Start vehicle.

 

■ Turn radio On.

 

■ Load DVD Navigation Disc.

 

■ Once disc checking is complete, press the “NAV” button if the navigation screen doesn’t

 

appear automatically. Make sure the vehicle is in position in an open, outside area so the

 

GPS antenna can link up to the satellites.

 

■ If the radio stations work and the navigation screen loads correctly, turn the radio Off, turn

 

■ the vehicle Off, and proceed to the next step.

 

■ If the radio isn’t working correctly, check all radio plugs in rear, as well as amp connections

 

and fuse.

NOTE:

Dont screw it in yet in case something doesnt work. Now reconnect the battery. Put the key in and you should hear [door] chimes!!! If you don’t hear chimes, and the screen says "THEFTLOCK ACTIVATED", then you'll just need to put your dash back together and take it to a dealership and get the theftlock cleared. I have included the theftlock clearing procedure in my next section. I have also included in the next section the steps to bypassing the theftlock temp. to check if the unit is functioning. If the radio is brand new then start the truck. The new radio will take a second to initialize as it learns your trucks VIN so it can become "married" to your VIN incase someone steals the radio (it will now only work with your VIN).

 

18. If the radio is working correctly reinstall all dash components.

 

 

7. THEFTLOCK CLEAR PROCEDURE(IF THE NAV YOU ARE BUYING IS NOT BRAND NEW)

 

 

Now if you buy a radio that has a theft lock activated(say if it was taken out of vehicle) then all you have to do is install it and then when its all done and you turn the vehicle on there will be the theft lock screen pop up. No big deal, I had it happen to me. Just take it to the dealership and say you need the theft lock cleared.

 

 

TEMPORARY BYPASS INSTRUCTIONS

 

You can temp bypass this for testing purposes by turning off the truck, then put the key in the ACC position, and pull the

radio fuse for 5 seconds (with the key still in ACC). Then put the fuse back in and the radio will have full functionality until you

turn the key off or try to start the truck. If you do either of those, the radio will lock up again. Alternatively you can simply unplug the large 24-pin radio connector for 5 seconds instead of pulling the fuse. Now that the Theftlock is "bypassed, fire up the radio and test out that LUXURY sound!!

 

Some smaller dealerships don't know how to do this so I have the theft lock procedure here:

 

Complete the following procedure, using a scan tool, in order to properly set up communication:

 

Using a connected Tech2,

 

1. At the Main Menu screen, select: Diagnostics.

 

2. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following options:

 

■ Model Year

■ LD Trk, MPV, Incomplete

 

3. At the System Selection Menu screen, select: Body

 

4. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following:

 

■ Appropriate model

■ Appropriate Air Conditioning

■ Navigation Radio

 

5. At the Body Screen, select: Navigation Radio.

 

6. At the Radio screen, select: Special Functions.

 

7. At the Special Functions screen, select: VIN Relearn.

 

8. At the VIN Relearn screen, the scan tool will display "Do you want to clear radio theft information?"

 

9. To begin clearing, press the soft touch key on the top right of the scan tool. The scan tool will display "Clearing Radio Theft in Progress."

 

10. Press EXIT on the scan tool and cycle the ignition.

 

 

8. VSS WIRE DESCRIPTION

 

 

All this is a wire thats behind your guages that is the vehichle speed sensor. Hooking this up to your radio is something thatll help, but you don't have to do if you don't choose to. The way it helps is say if your way out in the middle of now where and the gps antenna is having a difficult time picking up and/or cuts out, the the nav unit still tracks you correctly by filling in the gaps if you have the VSS wire connected. So say if you are driving down time square and you lose signal, and then pick it back up a mile down the road, your nav unit want stop when it losses signal and the skip to the part where the signal picked back up, your VSS wire tell it that your still driving and moving and the dot on the screen keeps going.

 

 

■ ■ ■ NOTE■ ■ ■ You MAY or MAY NOT have to do this step (wire the VSS wire).

For 2005, im 99% sure all of the GMT-800 vehicles already have the

VSS wire in place as standard. My '05 Duramax LT Crew Cab already had

it… If your truck is a 2005 there is no

reason it shouldnt have it. 2004.5 MAY or may not have it. 2003 and

early 2004 definetly wont have it; only the Escalades and Denali's had

it back then because the Nav was an option that was exclusive to

those two vehicles... You can check for it

by looking at the radio C2 connector (the smaller one). Check if there

is a DARK GREEN wire going into pin "E". If its there, the VSS wire is

already in place and you dont have to worry about wiring it.

Alternatively, you can temporarrily plug in the TNR and start driving

forward...if the "destination programming screen/section" gets grayed

out as you go above 10 mph or so, then the VSS wire is working

properly.

 

 

9. VSS WIRING INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU DON’T ALREADY HAVE THE WIRE(pictures included, also in link):

 

 

■ This step should come before you put your dash back together.

You will have to remove the instrument cluster. Unbolt the 4

bolts that hold it in and pull it forward and unplug it. Find the wire

that goes into the A4 pin of the gauges connector. It will be a green

with white stripe wire. This is the VSS wire. Use a plastic wire

tap/Scotchloc connector and tap into this wire. Run the wire and make

sure it is long enough to reach the "radio C2" connector (the smaller

radio connector). Now take another of those "unused" pins that you cut

off of the amp harness. Splice it onto the end of the "new" VSS wire.

Then, pry off the pin retaining clip from the radio C2 connector. Then

push the pin into the "E" position. (see diagrams for which position

is E...its also in tiny tiny letters on the plastic connector) Snap

the retaining clip back on.

 

 

10. VSS WIRE BYPASS TO ENTER DESTINATIONS IN WHILE VEHICLES IN MOTION(picture included)

 

 

Ok the down side of having the VSS wire installed is that if your vehicle is in drive, then it prohibits you from entering a new destination untill the vehicles in park. This could be a problem say if you are in a bad part of town or something and you want you passenger to enter a new location. This is simply fixed by adding a toggle switch into the VSS wire. I did this to my truck and put the switch in the middle console(pictures of switch location included).

 

 

11. 6 DISC SLAVE INSTALLATION(pictures included)

 

 

This portion was done by DUREtotheMax

 

This part is pretty simple if you follow the wiring diagrams and CDX wiring chart that is included. First of all make sure you have the correct CDX. A 2001-2002 CDX will NOT work!! Back then before the GMT-800’s went to a full Class II data bus, the radios and climate control spoke over the slow old E&C data bus (Entertainment & Comfort). This was much too slow a data rate for the increasing amount of data that traveled between the radios and BCM’s, so in 2003 everything in the whole vehicle switched to the Class II data bus. This was a good move because in 2002 and before, it was such a mish-mosh of data busses that it was a mess. E&C controlled the radios, CDX’s and climate control. UART controlled the SRS Airbag systems, Class II controlled main BCM functions such as locks, windows, and seats, and finally the CAN bus (Controller Area Network, very similar in operation and function to a home Personal Computer LAN) controlled ECM/PCM/TCM (engine

control/powertrain control/tranny control) communication. Now its all Class II and a little bit of CAN for the PCM/TCM. Back to the CDX though…you need a 2003 or later CDX that speaks on the Class II data bus. The only visual difference between the two is that the 2002 and older units had plastic slides on the sides for mounting. The 2003 and up units have metal tabs, or “ears” sticking out of the sides. If you bought one and are unsure if it’s the right one, send me a picture and ill help you out. DON’T try plugging it in until you’re sure…I don’t know if the conflicting data-busses could damage something. Now remove the black plastic console bezel that holds the two cig lighters/12 volt outlets. It just pulls out. Give it a good yank. Look in there and you will see a perfect space for the CDX…except a big lump with a hole in it is in the way. Simply cut it out. I Dremmel’d it and finished it off with a mini-hack saw and finally,

just grabbed it with a big pair of Channel-locks and broke it out. Just be careful cause there are some wires RIGHT behind it. Snake the CDX harness from the radio area down to the console. Then plug in the CDX and bolt it in place with some self tapping screws. To fit the plastic bezel around it, I cranked up the table saw blade as high as it would go and just cut off the “back” of the pocket on the bezel. Don’t cut if off completely. Leave about 3/16 of an inch to fit flush against the CDX’s own bezel. You’ll figure it out once you start. Keep trimming it back until it fits perfectly. Now just follow the wiring diagram in the picture to splice in the wires at the correct places on the two radio connectors. I soldered them, but you can use ScotchLoc connectors also. If you DON’T have XM, there wont be any audio wires on the radio C2 connector to splice into. In that case, just remove the pins from the 9-pin flat CDX harness plug and insertthe pins into the appropriate places on the radio C2 connector. The pins are the same size on both connectors so they will plug right in. If you have XM, splice the wires in as normal.

 

 

 

12. LUX AMP INSTALL

 

 

■■ALSO THERE THERE IS A LINK AT THE VERY BOTTOM OF POST WITH A FEW LINKS TO THE WIRING DIAGRAMS■■

 

 

Wrote by DURAtotheMAXX

 

the amp setup procedure (because the amps on ebay are used

and wont have to be programmed...its actually best NOT to program the

amp because for some odd reason, the amps can go dead after

programming). The ONLY situation where you should program an amp is if it is unprogrammed. You will know if it is unprogrammed because audio will only come from the RIGHT FRONT speaker. Otherwise, leave the amp alone!! (as I described before) There are two different docs that describe the same

rewiring procedure...

 

(first disconnect the battery and remove the old 6-disc

radio before starting the amp install)

 

Before you put your dash together, Basically you need to take the console apart by removing the lid, inner storage bucket (don’t forget the screws on the bottom under the little rubber mat) and cupholders. Also take the "rear end" off so you can see the amp and

the amp connectors. Its just a lot of screws and thats it! Once you get everything apart, unplug the amp and unscrew the two rear bolts. (all the hex-head bolts for the radio and amp are 9/32”) Then, this is the only tricky part... Look carefully at the pictures I

took of mine... The front two amp bolts are under the metal plate...unless you have a perfect little 9/32” wrench or soemthing that can sneak in and unscrew those bolts, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in the metal plate right above the bolts. Once you drill these holes, you can fit a nut driver or something thru and unbolt the amp. Pull the amp out towards the rear. You will have to bend a sheet metal bracket a bit to squeeze the amp out. Now you can work on the connectors. I did the amp C2 connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it ull

understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire out. Dont pull hard!!! The pins should come out easilly. Once all the

pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go, and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows. These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (the holes that are closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connecctor (as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large pin because it wont fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are not needed (the

ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it onto the end of the drain wire (i used a crimp butt-splice). Now you can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1 connector! Dont throw away any of the other wires that you cut off either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there previously is of course the Class II data wire (becuase the amp is

totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a simple plastic wire tap (also called a ScotchLoc connector) and tap into the Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source

to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that

goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…cause the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire (about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1 connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wire tap/Scotchloc connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE wire of the RSA. Dont cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can get to the RSA and to the amp..

 

 

VIDEO(DVD PLAYS OVER NAV SCREEN)

 

 

■ Option 1:

Ok first of all, there is NO WAY to physically be able to put a DVD disk into the nav unit and it play. But theres a few different options available to let you use the screen.. I know it may sound weird but I'll explain. There is a device made by PAC(dont know much about it) and a device called GM LOCKPICK made by coastaletech.com. The lockpick wires into the back of the NAV TNR unit and adds video inputs, for like a rear back up camera. Well If you have a Rear entertainment system(flip down dvd player), then all you have to do is take the DVD player down off the roof and find the blue and purple wire. Get your wire strippers and carefully strip some insulation off the light blue and purple wires. DO NOT cut them, you are just going to be making a splice into them. Now get your video cable and cut one of the yellow plugs off a RCA cable you wanna use. Strip the wire so the two wires of the video cable are exposed. Now figure out which wire on the video cable goes to the center "pin" of the plug on the other end. Follow me? Basically you just need to separate the two wires and figure out which goes to the metal "barrel" on the plug and which goes to teh center pin. The center pin is "VIDEO +" and the surrounding barrel around the center pin is "VIDEO -".

 

Now when you have all your wires stripped and ready to connect, splice the "VIDEO +" wire of the video cable into the LIGHT BLUE wire on the RSE assy. Splice the "VIDEO -" wire into the PURPLE wire.

 

All you'll need is the video source from the flip down to the NAV unit because if you have the vehicle speakers playing the sound from the rear DVD player, then there's no need in the NAV unit to be playing sound to as its already being done. In short, your just making 2 screens show the same thing. (I WILL ADD A PICTURE OF THIS IN USE)

 

Now in order for the LOCKPICK to switch the NAV screen from radio to the movie, it needs a switch. EXAMPLE: If you have a rear camera hooked up, then you would make the switch the reverse light, or something tied into the reverse system so that when you go into reverse the screen automatically cuts to the camera feed. Well with this tapping into the flip down, you could simply just add a switch into the glove box or middle console.

 

NOTE: When your done with the nav install, you'll notice that there's not an option on the nav screen to go to that lets you use the vehicles speakers for the rear dvd player anymore. But not to worry, all you have to do is go through your sources on you steering wheel control, and you'll get to it that way(Rear DVD player has to be on for it to pull up)

 

 

■ Option 2:

If you don't have the rear DVD player, then you can add an external DVD player(a small one that goes under the seat for example) and use the lockpick to connect it. Not really much explaining to do.

 

 

14. LINKS

 

 

TNR800 link again:

http://ppd.delphi.com/pdf/consumer/tnr800_install_guide.pdf

 

Here are some pictures and the links to the amp installation documents

http://duramax.onlinedesk.net/navinstall/[/url]

picture_2.tiff

vss2.tiff

picture_2.tiff

vss2.tiff

picture_2.tiff

vss2.tiff

picture_2.tiff

vss2.tiff

[Majorleaguebass]

AWESOME write up bro!!!

[obfirefighter22]

Ok i just a few more hours into it and dressed it up alot, add section 13 about view dvds on the front nav screen, and made small changes here and there to things. thanks for checking it out. (watch, no one need this anymore for some reason...) Here are some pictures aswell

[Majorleaguebass]

is it easy to take the dash off, iam kinda if'y on that one???

[obfirefighter22]

is it easy to take the dash off, iam kinda if'y on that one???

 

Yeah it actually is really easy, just take your time. the only problem i had was when i broke the light sensor on the dash when(like and idiot) i forgot about it and tried to pull the dash all the way out. Just barely release the whole dash, but dont pull much, then twist it clock wise till it releases.

 

Oh and im about to start trying to figure these codes out, i tried that one just a few minutes ago(to get into the keyboard, but couldnt get it... maybe im doing it wrong, but ill try and find some more info

[Majorleaguebass]

Ok let me know if those codes work...btw did you do the cd changer conversion to???

[obfirefighter22]

no didn't but don't think it would be that hard. I would like to have it, but I like my bin on the console. I might eventually do it but put the changer in the middle console, under the lid.

[Majorleaguebass]

yea, i think thats where i might out mine, just need to do some wiring extensions

[jimb726]

Hi there, I have a question, I have a used unit that is theftlocked, obviously, however I cannot seem to get the bypass measures to work. I initially tried to unplug the main plug for a few seconds and plug it back in, but it always goes back to Theftlock mode. I then tried to pull the fuse out of the main panel under the hood and when it turned back on it went right to the theftlock mode again? Is the theftlock finicky or is there something wrong with this head unit?

 

Thanks,

Jim

[obfirefighter22]

Hi there, I have a question, I have a used unit that is theftlocked, obviously, however I cannot seem to get the bypass measures to work. I initially tried to unplug the main plug for a few seconds and plug it back in, but it always goes back to Theftlock mode. I then tried to pull the fuse out of the main panel under the hood and when it turned back on it went right to the theftlock mode again? Is the theftlock finicky or is there something wrong with this head unit?

 

Thanks,

Jim

 

 

Hey jim, yeah it can be a drag messing with it sometimes. I forgot exactly what all it will do when you do get it bypassed, but i do know that if your trying to start your truck up then it will go back, its only a temp thing:/ This reply may be alittle to late, im sorry if it is, just havent had time to get on in awhile(lifes been a mess)

 

Let me know what the deal is or what you wound up doing

[KCXLT]

Just an FYI, you don't have to hook up the VSS wire. On my 04 Avalanche I didn't bother. It is really, really chunky for the first while, don't know if it is a time thing or picking a really straight road and drive for 15 minutes, then it works normal. Also just stuffing the antenna between the vents and the bottom of the dash pad works well also, just wrap it in something so it doesn't rattle. I've got some pics here:

 

http://tinyurl.com/cds8mu

[Jrdcpapc]

Just an FYI, you don't have to hook up the VSS wire. On my 04 Avalanche I didn't bother. It is really, really chunky for the first while, don't know if it is a time thing or picking a really straight road and drive for 15 minutes, then it works normal. Also just stuffing the antenna between the vents and the bottom of the dash pad works well also, just wrap it in something so it doesn't rattle. I've got some pics here:

 

http://tinyurl.com/cds8mu

Can anyone tell me if I have the non lux, Premium amp and want to upgrade the audio can I just install a lux amp. I don't need the navigation but would like the upgraded sound.

Thanks.

[dwswanger]

Can anyone tell me where the GPS antena mounts on the GMT 900? Or a post to change over to Nav? Donald

[csvencer]

Might be the wrong place to ask this but seems like you know a hell of a lot about the nav systems, are Lux and Non-Lux versions of the 07-10 Nav units? I have a 2007 LTZ with Nav, is that Lux, Non, or no different? Thanks.

 

-Svence

[lbsz28]

Ok I've had alot of people message me asking how I installed my head unit, and the info is out there but in bit and pieces here and there and can get frustrating. I gathered all the info up that I used and decided to try and put it all in one place. WARNING!!! Very long, but basically everything is covered(not going to say everything youll need to know is in here because someone will find out a question not covered some how)So here go's...

 

My 2005 GMC Sierra SLT:

So just to make sure I understand correctly, you can install a LUX amp with a Non-LUX TSN head unit and it will work correctly and has better sound, as long as you re-wire it according to your instructions.