Jump to content

Some Questions For You All...


Recommended Posts

Posted

My transfer case is going to hell quick. It leaks fluid like crazy and I cant pinpoint where its all coming from. Ive got a 2000 silvy with the 246 t-case. I recently changed the u-joints and replaced the rear output shaft seal. The new seal wont stay in. It went in really easy almost like it was too small (or the hole was too big). So far everyone ive talked to has said that it should have went in snug and no sealents would be needed. Is this true? Is it ok to use a sealent?

 

It doesnt look like the fluid is leaking out of the rear shaft area as the spline(?) that goes in to the transfer case was bone dry when changing the u-joints. Tonight I found a t-case locally for $250. It is apparently a GM remanufactured that came from a 2001 silvy with 130,xxx miles. Since the case is a remanufactured unit I would assume that there wouldnt be too many miles on it. I havent looked at it yet but he says its not leaking or anything like that. What should I look for to make sure its worth buying? I really cant afford $1300 for a new one.

 

How difficult is it to change out the case? I dont have access to a lift and would be doing it in the driveway. Also, Im not sure what tranny is in my truck as I couldnt find a tag or anything when I looked. Not sure if it really matters either. Im just tired of wasting my money putting fluid in when its just ending up splattered underneath the truck. Ive put my main questions in bold, but any other insight or advice is welcomed. Thanks in advance! And I did search but havent found anything really related to my specific problems(ie. the fluid isnt coming out of just the pinhole that wears through the case)

Posted
Are you sure you got the right seal?

 

 

I got it at napa and they didnt ask what transfer case i had. whatever their system told them for my year/model/engine/etc is the one they gave me. It looks exactly like the old one but doesnt fit right. not sure the part number either as i already threw the box and old seal away.

Posted

Def sounds like you got the wrong seal, but its not that hard to change a t-case out. It is MUCH easier if you have a lift, but it can be done with a floor jack and a 2x6 or 2x8. I've done many this way, it just sux.

Posted

Well Doug, don't feel bad.....my 08 Silverado's T-Case was shot from the factory. First time I ever used it she was VERY LOUD!!! I have the manual T-Case with the lever on the floor, and it was 100% totally shot. I drove like 3/4 mile with it in 4 high on a road with @ 4 inches or more of snow and couldn't stand the noise anymore. I made it home fine with the rear locker and took it in the next weekend. So it got totally rebuilt by a good GM Dealer and all is well. Total cost to GM was @ $3000 they told me, not including labor. Everything was replaced form the case itself to the gears, chain, etc....anything in the t-case was rebuilt or replaced. Took 3 weeks to get it back. But good luck Doug!

Posted

Well i was told today by a guy at work that the 2001's had a different transfer case or at least a 4 button switch in the cab instead of the 3 button one i have. Any truth to this?? I went to a dealership today to pick up some more fluid($9/qt btw!). I asked them about a new tcase and a reman. gm case is gonna run $1400+ not including labor if i were to have them put it in.

Posted

Maybe I missed it. You still can't find where fluid is leaking out? There are no wet spots? It's not leaking at the loose seal at all?

Posted
Maybe I missed it. You still can't find where fluid is leaking out? There are no wet spots? It's not leaking at the loose seal at all?

 

 

the whole case is wet and its splattering everywhere underneath the truck. when i pulled the driveshaft out the seal and yoke were dry. i think its leaking out of the top of the case somewhere but i cant pinpoint a location. it almost seems like its leaking out of multiple locations. could it be leaking from the seal holding the tcase together?

 

and i figured out the switch thing. forgot there was an "auto" button on there so i would imagine this tcase from the 2001 would work as long as its a 246?

Posted

Maybe you have the dreaded "pump rub" issue and the fluid

is leaking from the wear spot.

Check out the pic and look at your case:

gallery_753_27_125982.jpg

Posted
Maybe you have the dreaded "pump rub" issue and the fluid

is leaking from the wear spot.

Check out the pic and look at your case:

gallery_753_27_125982.jpg

 

 

Yup already JB welded that spot among a few others but its still leaking like a siv.

Posted
If it is leaking but still working why would you buy a new one. Is the t-case shot or just the leaking?

 

i would assume the tcase is prolly not in the best condition and wouldnt want to depend on it if i ever needed to use it. with the amount of fluid leaking theres more then just a pinhole in it.

Posted

Well that guy with the tcase isnt getting back to me so Im not sure if ill even get that one. For now I think I am just going to put a sealent on the seal and keep adding fluid til i can afford to replace it. If anyone could answer this question for me it would be greatly appreciated.....

 

Should I put grease on the shaft part that goes into the transfer case? If so what kind of grease would be best? TIA!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...