Painting The Bumper End Caps

asilverblazer · May 13, 2009

Second part of getting some little problems fixed on my truck (See my dent thread), I need to have the bumper end caps on my truck repainted, they both were scuffed pretty badly. What would be my cheapest and best solution? I figure on taking them off, and giving them to a body shop to repaint. Any shops someone would like to recommend in Oklahoma City? Ready for the oxymoron? I need cheap and quality work.

ColoradoSkiCountry · May 15, 2009

Why on earth did GM put "Painted" bumpers on a truck!?!?

georgecdisc · May 15, 2009

Why on earth did GM put "Painted" bumpers on a truck!?!?

For those of us that do not like to be blinded by chrome.

Draenor · May 15, 2009

I would talk to a body shop that you trust(usually a mom and pop). I try to work out a deal to where I do most of the prep work;sanding, masking, scuffing, etc. Thats the dirty work, that consumes the shops time, costing you money. Then I get them to paint. As for taking them off and letting the shop do the work, thats up to the shop. No paint color is perfect, and may need to be tweeked or blended to make everything flow. Just because he paints them black doesnt mean it will match the factory black on the truck.

The cheapest route is the fact-o-bake and what not. Though you get what you pay for.

Stylous · May 15, 2009

If you can work a spray can with good results I would suggest going to the body shop and getting a two stage set up. Stage one is the paint, stage two is the clear. VERY EASY!!! W/th primer, paper and enough paint for bumper will cost you $50.00. The body shop will hook you up w/ everything you need.

Because you are not painting a panel it will be very hard to see any variations in color. I'm also assuming the rest of the paint on the car is in decent shape.

I just purchased a 2001 Pathfinder for my son. The car is in great shape but the bumper had a dent and missing paint on the corner bumper that was about the size of a softball. I did the above and you cant even tell it was repaired.

Good luck.

Couple pointers...

1) wet sand

2) wipe down with CLEAN rag and acetone to remove any contamination

3) put three coats primer

4) wet sand

5) acetone wipe

6) three coats color

7) hit with 4 coats clear at close range (avoid rough clear shot)

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Zembonez · May 15, 2009

Why on earth did GM put "Painted" bumpers on a truck!?!?

For those of us that do not like to be blinded by chrome.

Says the man with a chrome grille and bumper.

asilverblazer · May 17, 2009

If you can work a spray can with good results I would suggest going to the body shop and getting a two stage set up. Stage one is the paint, stage two is the clear. VERY EASY!!! W/th primer, paper and enough paint for bumper will cost you $50.00. The body shop will hook you up w/ everything you need.

Because you are not painting a panel it will be very hard to see any variations in color. I'm also assuming the rest of the paint on the car is in decent shape.

I just purchased a 2001 Pathfinder for my son. The car is in great shape but the bumper had a dent and missing paint on the corner bumper that was about the size of a softball. I did the above and you cant even tell it was repaired.

Good luck.

Couple pointers...

1) wet sand

2) wipe down with CLEAN rag and acetone to remove any contamination

3) put three coats primer

4) wet sand

5) acetone wipe

6) three coats color

7) hit with 4 coats clear at close range (avoid rough clear shot)

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

I guess I could try this, worst case is I make it look worse and have to have it done professionally.

AllBlkdOut07 · May 17, 2009

You can do it. I thought I made up a thread over a year ago as to how I went about painting mine myself.

Yep, just found it.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=painting

C. Charles Hahn · May 17, 2009

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Umm... NO! You do NOT wait a week to put wax on, and you also skipped the step of wetsanding and buffing. For fresh paint, you should be waiting 60-90 days for the paint to fully cure, otherwise all of the solvents can't properly flash and you'll end up with delamination problems.

VMax2007 · May 17, 2009

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Umm... NO! You do NOT wait a week to put wax on, and you also skipped the step of wetsanding and buffing. For fresh paint, you should be waiting 60-90 days for the paint to fully cure, otherwise all of the solvents can't properly flash and you'll end up with delamination problems.

You sure that is still true today with water-based paints? I would think 30 days would be plenty with today's paints.

georgecdisc · May 17, 2009

Why on earth did GM put "Painted" bumpers on a truck!?!?

For those of us that do not like to be blinded by chrome.

Says the man with a chrome grille and bumper.

It came with the truck . I don't like the all chrome front bumpers (the corners), those look awful in my opinion. As far as chrome goes, I wouldn't like anymore on my truck. Door handles, gas cap, etc are too much for me. I've actually looked into getting a black grill but have not been able to find anything I like.

Chrome is good, but in excess it is, well, blinding.

C. Charles Hahn · May 17, 2009

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Umm... NO! You do NOT wait a week to put wax on, and you also skipped the step of wetsanding and buffing. For fresh paint, you should be waiting 60-90 days for the paint to fully cure, otherwise all of the solvents can't properly flash and you'll end up with delamination problems.

You sure that is still true today with water-based paints? I would think 30 days would be plenty with today's paints.

I think you may be referring to waterborne paints.... which are a somewhat different animal as far as how they are sprayed and cured. And even then, if we're talking about using rattle-can paint most of it is still solvent based. Waterborne is still less common in general.

While 30 days may be fine, even for some solvent-based paints, I always like to wait 60 days and stick to non-sealing paint glazes for protection in the meantime. I do touch-up and small body work on a regular basis and that's how I've always done it; I figure better safe than sorry.

Stylous · May 18, 2009

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Umm... NO! You do NOT wait a week to put wax on, and you also skipped the step of wetsanding and buffing. For fresh paint, you should be waiting 60-90 days for the paint to fully cure, otherwise all of the solvents can't properly flash and you'll end up with delamination problems.

His current finish would dictate if he needs to wetsand and buff after shooting...my guess is this NOT a show job and thus has the factory orange peel effect on it like all our trucks. To match, he should just shoot and coat as instructed above, no wetsanding or buffing s/b needed. Unless of course he has run into some trouble or reaction while painting.

Wax/sealer after a week (80 degrees or higher) on a bumper skin (plastic) is more then enough time for the paint to cure.

Poster...there are always variables when painting and I'm not going to get into a pissing contest about it with others on here. My advice is above and I have had great results on more then one occasion. It's $50, you can do it yourself i'm sure. good luck.

C. Charles Hahn · May 18, 2009

8) let it stand for about a week before you apply a paint sealer and then wax.

Umm... NO! You do NOT wait a week to put wax on, and you also skipped the step of wetsanding and buffing. For fresh paint, you should be waiting 60-90 days for the paint to fully cure, otherwise all of the solvents can't properly flash and you'll end up with delamination problems.

His current finish would dictate if he needs to wetsand and buff after shooting...my guess is this NOT a show job and thus has the factory orange peel effect on it like all our trucks. To match, he should just shoot and coat as instructed above, no wetsanding or buffing s/b needed. Unless of course he has run into some trouble or reaction while painting.

Wax/sealer after a week (80 degrees or higher) on a bumper skin (plastic) is more then enough time for the paint to cure.

Poster...there are always variables when painting and I'm not going to get into a pissing contest about it with others on here. My advice is above and I have had great results on more then one occasion. It's $50, you can do it yourself i'm sure. good luck.

I keep forgetting this is a truck forum.... I should just learn to NEVER try giving out detailing/bodywork/painting advice from a professional perspective on here and say "Turtle wax f*cking rocks y'all!!" instead.