Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys,

 

I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD with 8.1L engine.

 

The parking brakes have not been holding the truck while parked at an angle in the driveway. Everytime I go to shift out of park, I get a loud CLUNK because the truck has been locked onto the tranny instead of the parking brakes holding the truck.

 

I know that has got to be bad on the tranny.

 

Anyways, I have always know that changing the brake pads to new ones usually will make the parking brakes "tight" again. But it did not work for this truck.

 

Can somebody please assist with advice on how to tighten the parking brakes?

 

Thanks.

Posted
Hi guys,

 

I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD with 8.1L engine.

 

The parking brakes have not been holding the truck while parked at an angle in the driveway. Everytime I go to shift out of park, I get a loud CLUNK because the truck has been locked onto the tranny instead of the parking brakes holding the truck.

 

I know that has got to be bad on the tranny.

 

Anyways, I have always know that changing the brake pads to new ones usually will make the parking brakes "tight" again. But it did not work for this truck.

 

Can somebody please assist with advice on how to tighten the parking brakes?

 

Thanks.

I think the brake is auto adjusting on the pedal itself. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Posted

Not sure if this pertains to your vehicle or not:

 

Parking Brake Cable Adjuster Enabling

If the park brake automatic adjuster has been disabled, the following two person procedure must be performed.

 

-Hold the park brake pedal in the FULL upward position.

-Pull rearward on the front park brake cable until the tension is released from the scribe or nail (1) installed through the holes in the pedal assembly.

-Remove the scribe or screwdriver (1).

-Slowly release the park brake cable until it returns to its original position.

-Release the park brake pedal.

-Lower the vehicle.

-Apply and release the park brake pedal to ensure that there is no binding or sticking.

post-59517-1244482755_thumb.png

post-59517-1244482755_thumb.png

post-59517-1244482755_thumb.png

post-59517-1244482755_thumb.png

Posted

The parking brake adjustment is on the rear disc, inside. Remove the rear disc, look for a star cylinder adjusting screw. Use a 12 in. micrometer to measure drum, then measure drum pads. Difference should be .6604 mm or .02 in.

Posted

Just spin the star screw towards the "base" and it will move the ebrake shoes out. Just put them out a little. If you have trouble getting the disc/drum assembly back on you probably moved the shoes out too much!

Posted
The parking brake adjustment is on the rear disc, inside. Remove the rear disc, look for a star cylinder adjusting screw. Use a 12 in. micrometer to measure drum, then measure drum pads. Difference should be .6604 mm or .02 in.

 

 

When you say to remove the rear disc, do you mean remove the pads and the rotor as well?

Posted

Yes. Remove the caliper with pads, and then remove the disc. The parking brake is inside the disc, on the back side. Do one side at a time.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

check the cables. I've had to replace both of them several times because i never use the brake and inspection then fails it. The cables freeze up then don't put enough force on the brakes

Posted

I have had to use the adjustment procedure mentioned above, it works fine (turning that little collar). Just a pain in the ass.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know if you can adjust the star from behind the backing plate so i dont have to remove rotors or some way to adjust the cable?

Posted

Your parking brake may be OK.

 

I suggest you try this first before tearing off the brakes. Put the parking brake on before the transmission is shifted into park. If this is not done, the truck may move enough between park and the application of the parking brake to put pressure on the park mechanism in the transmission.

 

Most people shift into park with their foot on the brake. Then they use their brake foot to press the parking brake. That's one reason I like the hand parking brakes.

 

By putting the parking brake on first no movement should happen, providing of course that it is properly adjusted.

Posted

It sounds like your only option is to adjust using the star wheel on the parking brake shoe. Pull the rotor, and adjust the star wheel so the shoe diameter increases. I adjust it out until the shoe just drags on the rotor then back it off slightly. You can set the rotor in place and spin to check clearance.

Posted

on my 99 1500nbs their is NO hole to get to the adjuster..... you have to take the rotor off..... same on my 01 2500nbs

 

I have had problems with my 99's ebrake since i got it up until last year..... I ended up buying the pedal assy, all cables, adjusters, rotors, pads, and new shoes.... it finally pissed me off last year... I changed everything...... it works great now.... When I purchased it the brake did NOT HOLD at all, service department adjusted the cable where it goes from 1 cable to 2 cables (didnt work)

 

jbo

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...
Posted

I realize this is way after the above conversation.

 

I have a 2004 Chevy Express 3500 with a 12,000 lb. load rating, and it's loaded. The parking brake on this has held never satisfactorily, and I have never thought about it when the truck has been in the shop. I finally started looking for a solution and landed here.

 

The second response about the automatic brake adjuster got me headed in the right direction. I tried the procedure but was not able to get enough tension off the parking brake cable to allow the cable pulley beside the parking brake pedal to re-engage in a more forward position. Instead I engaged the parking brake pedal a couple clicks and then clamped the parking brake cable where it emerged from the cable sheath near the floor with a pair of vise grips. Then I released the parking brake, this gave enough slack in the cable that the pulley re-engaged further forward on its catch. I repeated this procedure once more and now the parking brake pedal does not go to the floor and I have a very positive hold of my truck on a grade.

 

Thank you to the person supplying the advice and the schematic!

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I too know this is old, but this thread came up on a google search for this problem and the poster directly above helped my issue with my 02 Suburban. Hope my experience will help someone avoid hours of backbreaking work removing rusted on rear rotors to get to the star adjusters.

 

I couldn't get a vice grips on the cable inside the truck (not enough room) so I engaged the parking brake then clamped the parking brake cable with a vice grips just aft of the equalizer where it enters another sheath. I had to engage my pedal about 3/4 of the way before the autoadjuster would start to do its thing.

 

The truck now holds nice and steady, although the pedal does go almost all the way to the floor. Thanks, Dan B.!!

Edited by w3jn
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...