Jump to content

Nnbs Removing Just The Rear Blocks For Semi-leveling


Recommended Posts

Posted

I measured the front and the rear spacing of the tires to fenders and there is exactly a 2" difference. If I remove just the blocks out of the rear it will give me approx a 1" rake. Is there any down fall to doing this. I thought about installing a 1.5 lift kit for the front but I am then looking at the expense of an alignment.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
don't reuse U-bolts.

 

 

I want to do the same thing here...are you saying don't reuse the U-bolts that are on the truck right now if I remove the block? If I don't need to reuse the u-bolts, do you simply replace the ones on the truck right now with an aftermarket bolt or the identical factory bolt....THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Posted

I was told not to reuse u-bolts because of all the torque used to tighten them. Shorter ones can be had at any parts store.

Posted

I've heard a lot of people say "do not reuse the Ubolts" but the OEM Ubolts are superior to the auto part store chinese cheapos. I would have no problem reusing them if they have enough thread to be tightened properly (not sure if they are or not). Just bring them up to tight and then torque them. I've seen shops reuse them many times when replacing leaf springs... I can't see any difference. :)

Posted
I've heard a lot of people say "do not reuse the Ubolts" but the OEM Ubolts are superior to the auto part store chinese cheapos. I would have no problem reusing them if they have enough thread to be tightened properly (not sure if they are or not). Just bring them up to tight and then torque them. I've seen shops reuse them many times when replacing leaf springs... I can't see any difference. :)

 

 

You're not supposed to re-use U-bolts because they're torqued to around 90% yield strength of the material. It has nothing to do with quality, it has to do with their design.

 

Bolts do a lot more than just "hold" stuff together by "squeezing"... there's a lot of other design aspects involved. Some bolts even act as springs... although the deflection is not visible with the human eye.

 

A lot of people don't know this and improperly re-use U-bolts. Most good mechanics know that they're not supposed to reuse them but dont know exactly why; so they say the same thing you did, "i dont see what the difference is", and put them back on.

Posted
I've heard a lot of people say "do not reuse the Ubolts" but the OEM Ubolts are superior to the auto part store chinese cheapos. I would have no problem reusing them if they have enough thread to be tightened properly (not sure if they are or not). Just bring them up to tight and then torque them. I've seen shops reuse them many times when replacing leaf springs... I can't see any difference. :)

 

 

You're not supposed to re-use U-bolts because they're torqued to around 90% yield strength of the material. It has nothing to do with quality, it has to do with their design.

 

Bolts do a lot more than just "hold" stuff together by "squeezing"... there's a lot of other design aspects involved. Some bolts even act as springs... although the deflection is not visible with the human eye.

 

A lot of people don't know this and improperly re-use U-bolts. Most good mechanics know that they're not supposed to reuse them but dont know exactly why; so they say the same thing you did, "i dont see what the difference is", and put them back on.

 

Well... I understand what you are saying and while that sounds good, I'd have to see some specs to believe that they are actually that closely designed and built to such strict tolerances. I've never seen or heard of one failing and I know some pretty high end shops that reuse them regularly.

 

I understand what you are saying from an engineering standpoint.

Posted
Well... I understand what you are saying and while that sounds good, I'd have to see some specs to believe that they are actually that closely designed and built to such strict tolerances. I've never seen or heard of one failing and I know some pretty high end shops that reuse them regularly.

 

I understand what you are saying from an engineering standpoint.

 

See the links in my other post.

 

It's not that they're built to some super tight tolerances. Their torque value is such that it makes the material deform to acquire proper clamping force.

 

 

Just because you haven't heard of one failing doesn't mean that you should ignore proper installation. $.02

 

Edit: I also know a lot of high end shops and ASE Master techs who dont use a torque stick or torque wrench when putting wheels back on. Doesn't make it right...

Posted
Well... I understand what you are saying and while that sounds good, I'd have to see some specs to believe that they are actually that closely designed and built to such strict tolerances. I've never seen or heard of one failing and I know some pretty high end shops that reuse them regularly.

 

I understand what you are saying from an engineering standpoint.

 

See the links in my other post.

 

It's not that they're built to some super tight tolerances. Their torque value is such that it makes the material deform to acquire proper clamping force.

 

 

Just because you haven't heard of one failing doesn't mean that you should ignore proper installation. $.02

 

Edit: I also know a lot of high end shops and ASE Master techs who dont use a torque stick or torque wrench when putting wheels back on. Doesn't make it right...

 

PROPER INSTALLATION!

 

A lot of this is opinion and covering of ass. In this day of frivolous lawsuit after frivolous lawsuit, most companies "recommend" replacing anything you touch to get to the part you are replacing all in the name of "safety". Even people selling these things include statements like "should be replaced" "recommended replacement" etc in their instructions. I guess we can agree to disagree a bit here. I'd reuse mine in a heartbeat if I were just removing the block.

Posted

Don't know how else to explain it Jim... it's not CYA, it's inherent to design.

 

It's just like how you're not supposed to re-use bolts with thread-lock... they're 1 time use (unless its a type of thread-lock that you can reapply).

 

I'm not stating opinion.. im stating design fact.

 

You don't hear them failing all the time because engineers have to account for expected negligence and therefore we design "safety factors" into every system (this also accounts for material inconsistencies as well as other influences such as degradation with time/environment).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...