Red_5

I have the same issue now too. While towing our travel trailer recently we started smelling propane when we stopped. With propane tanks on the trailer we were pretty freaked out. It’s still doing it with the trailer disconnected. Usually get the smell when we park after driving in the car. Smell outside the truck seems to be the strongest in the driver side wheel well. We have a ‘15 Sierra SLT 6.2 4x4 Max Tow if any of that matters. We still have a powertrain warranty so when we get home I’ll take it in and see what they have to say. I found another link the other day talking about a TSB on it.

It is being used after the MAF. It has a straw that goes through the MAF and sprays on the other side. I‘m following CRC’s instructions to the letter. It seems to work, since I’ve been using it the stumbling on startup is gone. Im curious if anyone else is seeing this. I can’t be the only one using the product. I also don’t know for sure since I just found the stuff today, the Intake cleaner product seems to be the most likely culprit.

I was changing the intake air filter today and noticed this oil in the air box. It has a solvent type smell, more so than engine oil at least. I do use a valve cleaner spray through the MAF before each oil change which I think is the most likely culprit. I follow the directions though and only spray when the truck is being held at 2500 RPMs so I would think it’s all being sucked in. Anyone else have this? I’ll be paying closer attention now and be better about changing the filter which I’ll start doing each time I clean the intake valves.

No one will see them. They might be easier to notice if they get kicked out of place too.

My nephew printed a set for me. Bright green was the color he had which is fine with me, they’ll never be seen. Thanks for making and sharing the print info!

Anyone else having problems with the fix? My brakes are worse now, no problems before the "fix". It's like at slow speeds the ABS pulses then the pedal gets rock hard. It doesn't inspire much confidence unfortunately. Not sure what if anything the dealership can do.

That stuff will kill you for sure.?

Thanks

Do these need to be ABS or can they be made with the less toxic, more common filament?

Bilsteins are very reliable and mostly seem to last forever. I installed my 6112s and 5160s last September and am still happy with them. I now have about 8k miles on them. They seem to get better with some use. I like them better now than when I installed them and I’m running E load range KO2s at about 60psi most of the time and am at the top setting.

How many different types of upper control arms were produced? I know I've heard of aluminum and stamped steel but mine on my '15 4x4 Max tow look to be cast and I believe steel. Just curious.

I bought my 6112s from Battleborn. They are or at least were a forum sponsor and had a discount code for forum members.

Every situation feels more controlled. I felt like the stock suspension only handled very small bumps well. Anything more and things banged and crashed or got out of control quickly. I had mentioned before here that after replacing my suspension I noticed I was driving around town faster than before just because it felt better. I had to consciously dial it back. Even at freeway speeds the Bilstein suspension doesn’t seem to bottom out like I remember the old stuff would and I’m talking more like g-outs from quick elevation changes. I do think the 6112s and probably most shocks need to break in some which is why when you first get them installed it might not seem as awesome as you hoped. That I didn’t feel the need to lower my tire pressures after the last time I towed says a lot and I have put about 2k miles on the truck at 65psi.

I now have about 6k miles on my 6112s/5160 combo and can’t be happier with the combo. I’m even now running my E load range KO2s at 65 psi and the ride is still better than I remember the stock setup in every situation. I like my truck a lot more with the upgraded suspension.

Why not just get the 6112s up front if you want springs too. I have the 6112s up front with 5160s in the rear on my '15 and it's been a great upgrade. I don't think I could be happier.

Yes, they're on the highest setting and yes, I still wanted some rake for towing but I don't think it's necessary. I think I would have had enough rake without the higher block on my Max Tow but we did the work all at once. Tires are BFG KO2s in 275 65 18 E load. I "downgraded" to OEM 18s from the 20s that came on the truck because I wanted more tire. I'll likely go a little bigger when these tires are down in the next year or so.

In case anyone is interested, here's the NASA Speed News tow vehicle shock upgrade story using my truck. https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspension/tow-vehicle-suspension-upgrade-shocks/

Here's the NASA Speed News shock upgrade story using my truck. https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspension/tow-vehicle-suspension-upgrade-shocks/

I ordered my 6112s built from Battleborn but something happened when they were being assembled and, well, they didn't arrive assembled. They refunded me for shock hats because at the time I was in a hurry. I currently have basically stock sized K02s on OEM 18" wheels. I have about 44k miles on the current set of tires, I'll go a little bigger with the next set which is probably still a year away.

I now have over a 1,000 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and am very pleased. I think they need a bit of break-in so they've been getting better with every mile, they handle all bumps better than stock. My friend who has a stock Raptor was impressed with the ride over bumps - we were only on the highway. I also just towed my ~8,000 pound loaded toy hauler to Laguna Seca for the weekend with another friend and we were both impressed by how well the truck towed and how well the suspension handled things. I like the truck so much more now, drives better in every situation. GM suspension engineers should be shooting for something similar stock. I'd rather have a good suspension out of the box than a multifold tailgate for instance.

I was talking to my friend about this after I posted the response you quoted and he pointed out that maybe the side to side roll that I think are softer front springs could be the result of higher ride height, I'm not sure. Another element that could be fooling me is that the spring and shock are matched better than OEM which achieves a better ride quality even if stiffer sprung. What I am sure of is that the ride is much better on our far from perfect roads, I've noticed that I drive a lot faster around town and now I need to be more conscious of it where before my truck would be uncomfortable and even unsafe in a few spots to drive even at the speed limit. I still only have a few hundred miles on it but the ride quality just seems to keep improving. My truck does have the NHT package.

Your truck looks great. When we removed the stock fronts and installed the 6112 on the highest setting on my '15 Sierra NHT, we only had to disconnect the swaybar on both sides. It was surprisingly easy. I wonder what the differences are?

I haven't done anything else to figure out my odd measurements but after doing more driving, I think the ride is getting even better. I noticed that my body subconsciously tenses up when it knows I'm about to drive over bumps that I hit everyday and the hits just don't seem as bad as they once did. I still have less than 200 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and I'm more pleased everyday. I think I read somewhere that the 6112 springs were softer than the OEM springs and I believe it. The truck does seem to lean slightly more in turns but it isn't bad. The truck now rides like I think a 4x4 truck that had a nearly $60k MSRP should ride. Money well spent.

There's something strange going on and I might have to do some research before digging in. My passenger side front is just over 23" from center of wheel to the bottom of the trim and the rear is 24.5" so less than 1.5" difference. Driver's rear is 25.25" and front is roughly 22.75", maybe closer to 23" but still under. Passenger side has the front to rear height difference I had expected. I was under the truck looking at the rears to see why there might be 3/4" difference from side to side but I don't see anything. Blocks have the thicker parts to the rear on both sides. No visible gaps meaning something wasn't put together right. The nuts on the front shock shafts both look to have a very similar amount of thread showing but I was having a hard time getting close enough to get a good measurement with them in the engine bay.