bobboberton1

This is a great thread though I’m still trying to get clear on what all comes with the oem 2” kit. I basically want to do the oem lift but use the eibach level one kit in place of the ranchos. I have an LT Z71 so I may have to do the rear spring swap from composite to steel as well. I saw part numbers for the rear jounce bumpers, though can anyone advise on the other parts and if they are needed? Currently I’m planning to do the eibach kit, longer cv axles, steel leafs and blocks in the rear as well as rear bump stops. Do I need to do the compatibility brackets or front jounce bumpers? If so, does anyone have part numbers? Any other recommendations? Thank you.

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you.

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you.

Ive taken my vehicle in for service on this issue. Of course the tech provided the GM bulletin explaining that the vehicle needs to be at full stop for transmission to recognize it needs to start from 1st gear. Doesn't matter if Im at a standstill or not, I still get a jump that feels like Ive been rear ended. In addition, there are times that when backing into a roadway or out of a driveway, that I need to shift and go to operate safely. This also happens at low speeds, such as pulling in a parking lot of driveway, push on the gas after slowing and WHAM! I have zero confidence in this vehicle after 14 repairs outside of this issue in less than a year of ownership.

2019 Silverado LT Z71 Crew Cab

Yup. Still in the 2019. As long as Im in warranty, Ill hang onto it, and may push this back up the chain at some point. Im not letting my frustration cost me money on a trade.

Might as well share my horror story with this repair. Quick backstory, Ive had 14 total repairs to my truck, including this rear window leak. 145 total days out of service as a result of all the repairs including over 55 days with no loaner. Lemon Law arbitration in Texas was a joke, claim was dismissed despite: - Brake master cylinder failure plus 3x subsequent CEL for brake system communication issues - Brake system leak - Infotainment system reboot and distorted screen / eratic behavior 2x replaced unit, 1x replaced screen, issue persists - Back up camera replacement - Rear pinion leak - Window motor replacement - Body control module failure and replacement - Rear window leak. The rear window leaked and ruined headliner - discovered after coming across this thread (back when there were only 20 pages or so, ha), went out to look and sure enough two basketball sized stains in my headliner and water marks on the rear window, rusted rear seat hardware and wet carpet. Just the rear window included: Repair 1: Pulled spoiler - caulked and sealed and caulked rear window, pulled front window, replaced headliner Repair 2: Rear window still leaking. Pulled rear window, completely re-sealed Repair 3: Front window now leaking - pulled and resealed front window Repair 4: (as a result of repair 2,3) Cracked headliner in multiple places, gouged the hell out of my trim pieces and failed to replaced trim screw covers. As a result another new headliner, new trim pieces. This time I got 3x 3ft long scratches on my hood, and they didn't even snap the headliner in every place. Repair 5: When the window motor went out (now taking truck to a different dealer) this other dealer finally snapped the headliner into all the clips correctly. In short - Be kind but dont hesitate to ask a lot of questions. Im sure there are competent dealers out there. Also, don't hesitate to ask about front glass work, as most dealers outsource this to a local glass shop. Also, inspect the hell out of the work, and call attention to stuff that doesn't look right. My truck is a 2019 and was probably one of the first getting this repair. It seems like dealers are getting their heads around how to do it right. GM customer support is a joke. I had over 30 calls with them just trying to get expedited service on my vehicle and they couldn't even do that. Legal is the only way to get anything, or going to a news or media outlet. Ive spent enough time dealing with this that I simply don't have the energy for it at this point. Compensation Ive received for all this? Absolutely ZERO. Mostly because Texas lemon law favors big business (not to mention GM lobbyist gaining favor due to manufacturing being in TX). I talked with others on the forum whose states had consumer centric lemon laws, and they got new trucks because of it. If you want to get help - insist on speaking with a district manager of after sales. Dont take no for an answer. I had to go to 2 other dealers before a service manager stood up for me and got me in touch with the DMA in my area. He was the first person to show any empathy. They threw around some certificates and such, but nothing to truly restore faith in GM. I didn't want accessory coupons, I wanted a new truck or reimbursement for time out of service. I asked for a buyback and they refused. Its all about cost benefit for GM, they aren't going to do it out of principal alone. Ive handled everything cordially but firmly - every service advisor Ive talked to cant believe the lack of action on GMs part and said they've never seen a new truck with so many issues, but that doesn't get me any closer to a solution. Nice that some people agree at least, but not the ones who can do something. If I can help anyone else in any way - let me know, and hope this info helps others. Good luck if you're in Texas however.

What state are you in? I have had a similar experience, and reached a district manger. 3 months in the shop for this leak, still not fixed plus 10 other unrelated repairs in 7 months of ownership. Its been a nightmare. However, the district manger has offered a trade credit, but says a buyback is not even an option in my case. May be related to state lemon laws

I just got mine back from the second attempt to fix the rear window, which appears to be holding, but now had the same footwell puddle you do after rain last night. Have they fixed this for you yet? Would love to provide some suggested fixes to my dealer since it wasn't right the first time.

Thats my next step at this point. 3 different infotainment repairs, leaking pinion seal repair, brake failure, master cylinder leak, CEL for brake control module communication error 2x and still unresolved, leaking rear window, now back to the shop for rear window again. 22% of my days of ownership its been in the shop. Also, GM has stopped returning calls once I requested a resolution. Not every owner has it this bad. Ive been extremely patient over the past 6 months, but GM needs to own up that this isn't the experience they want for their owners. Holding things loosely these days given much more important issues in our world, but still pushing this along expecting a resolution soon.

Hey all, I came across this thread on accident a while ago. Thought I was a lucky one, but after having a series of other issues with my truck, I went out to my truck with a flashlight, and sure enough 2 basketball size water marks on my headliner and water streaks down my window. Well, truck went to the shop for 28 days getting everything fixed. Dealer explained it was my brake light and spoiler leaking. So they pulled those, resealed, removed front window to replace headliner, replaced all damaged items in the cab, and caulked my rear window. Picked up 2 days ago, and first thunderstorm and its leaking again. Fun icing on the cake is as I was driving today after seeing the leak and the check engine light is on yet again which is another ongoing issue. This truck is teaching me a lot about patience, although for me this is now the 9th time it will be in the shop in 6 months of ownership, a total of 45 accumulated days that its been in for repairs, and the 3rd repeat repair issue I've had that wasn't fixed the first time. Give your dealers a chance to make it right, keep things in perspective especially in these times. Although for me, Im needing another solution as enough is enough.

Is everyone getting replacement glass? Has anyone had an explanation of the repair? My dealer is stating they will reuse the same glass.

Wow. Yet another bummer of an issue with my 2019. At this point, my truck has had a repair every month of ownership and now this. I didn't even notice the leak, but came across this post in the forums. I went out to check my truck and sure enough, 2 basketball sized water marks on my headliner, water streaks down the window and rusted rear seat mounts. Truck is at the dealer awaiting parts. I haven't been able to read all the 119 previous pages and I have a question. My dealer is saying they need to pull my rear window and reseal, pull the rear spoiler and seal, and go through the front glass with the headliner! I realize the headliner is massive (crew cab) but Im shocked at them having to pop the front window to replace it. I asked the service technician about standard procedure and he investigated and said that chevy repair docs say to open the front window to replace the headliner. He spoke with the technicians who said they could try through the back window first, but if not would have the front glass pulled and replaced as well. Can anyone who had their headliner replaced comment on the process? Is everyone also getting a new rear glass? My dealer has always done a good job and been very meticulous on my other 6 repairs, so I have no reason to doubt them.

I had the update performed. Went 1 week with no issues then had a check engine light for a few days that eventually went off. Went back to the dealer and was told it’s throwing the same codes (loss of communication to brake control module) that the update was supposed to fix. So now waiting to hear what dealer / GM engineers have to say about my truck since it’s apparently still having the issue, although showing CEL vs the other warnings that have been a part of this problem.

If you look back in the forums, the infotainment update is unrelated to the brake issue. It’s the programming of the bcm software done by the dealer. Regardless, sorry you have this issue. It’s a bummer for all of us.

Well. So much for that theory.

So, interesting development for me. My brakes went out same as everyone else. Ive had all the software updates (including jan 16) that were supposed to resolve the issues. Last weekend I got a check engine light for a few days and then it went off. Went to the dealer and the diagnosis was loss of communication with brake control module. Not sure of the exact code but you could find it in other forums. Dealer said the last software update was supposed to fix this issue as well, so now they want to take it in and give me a loner until its figured out. Thankfully Ive been getting good customer service along the way, but this is continuing to be a problem. Based on all the info in these posts, it seems to come down to faulty parts combined with software that is causing the issue although no explanation for some having the issue and others do not. Interesting as well, is that I had my master cylinder replaced which is supposed to fix the faulty part concern, and the latest software was supposed to fix the software issue. So my dealer is stumped. Additionally, I talked with GM customer service, who explained some of the same issues others mentioned about remote start/application remote start being a root cause. When I pushed on how widespread the issue is, the agent explained that it may be limited to certain models manufactured in USA vs Mexico, although he dint say which was experiencing the issue. This was the first I heard and didn't realize that nearly every variant of Silverado (LT, trail boss etc) can come from either US or Mexico. In my case, my VIN starts with 3 which is supposed to indicate Mexico factory assembly (USA assembly VINs start with 1). So if what the agent is saying is true, then this issue may be isolated to those models assembled in Mexico and could be some type of assembly defect? So anyone else out there heard this? Is this only effecting those of us with vehicles assembled in Mexico (VIN starts with 3?)

Anyone else having this issue? I had the same CEL issue where it was on for a few days and now off. Dealer said it was the same communication codes mentioned in the previous posts. However, they said that the most recent software that came out 1/16/20 was supposed to address this exact issue. So now they are setting up a loner and need to do deeper investigation with the truck in partnerships with GM engineers. I’m really loosing faith in the vehicle at this point as this is my 7th warranty repair issue. Anyone else still having this issue?

I’m having the same issue. Purchased the Philips 921 everyone has suggested and cannot get them to fit. The connection appears the same but the round part of the base does not fit into the socket. I’ve applied a lot of force and no luck. Planning to return to amazon. Any other tips here? Insert “how many _____ does it take to change a lightbulb” jokes here. Haha.

Have you found out anymore information? Also surprised that my LT Z71 cannot accept GM official 2" lift. Did you end up installing another lift?

Have you had the most recent update performed that was released Jan 16?

Im in a similar boat. Several major repairs and hesitant to push for buyback when several things are fixed and appear to have resolved issues. I have the feeling Id go through this all over with a new vehicle. Has anyone negotiated warranty extension or other compensation with GM customer service instead of buy back?

Can you post some additional pictures? Id be doing a similar setup.

Ok all Thanks for the help. I was able to get this done in about 30 min. The previous explanations of how to perform this repair were excellent help. I'll add a few things. - Prying off the black cover - I ended up using a screwdriver with a towel to prevent damage. A nylon pry tool would have been the right thing for the job. Start on one side to pry as you pull, it will break loose and work around. Gently pulling as others described did not work for me. - Removing the mirror - it has two ball joints. As I was trying to rotate the black cover out of the way I hadn’t realized it has two ball joints, one at the mount and one at the mirror. I was able to flex both down and move the cover to access the covet to access the torx. - Separating these two pieces after removal of the mirror - I should have taken a pic, but I was able to use a small screwdriver blade and push the locking part of the plastic tab back out of the way of the catch. I pulled these apart no problem after that, no damage. - Prying the "L" pieces off the onstar / light unit. Start at the part near the lights and gently work around. No problems here. - Now for the glued connector. I used a small flat blade screwdriver and poked around the exposed edges of the connector and gently pried. This took a lot of finesse and patience. I don't think you could have directed heat on the glue enough to do anything with a hairdryer, but saving this for when its sat in the sun during the summer might have helped. Be patient, and keep working the edge. One caution is towards the end, I didn't realize there were holes in the plastic headliner backer, one of which was under the connector where it was glued. I almost poked the screwdriver through the headliner cloth on accident. In the end, the connector only had a small dab of glue to peel off, and clicked in to the new mirror just fine. Dang that is some tacky stuff. - Re - assembly - Connect mirror, mount it and set screw, large plastic cover, small cover, then the torn screws in the on star unit. Some people explained difficultly here with the larger recessed screws. Magnetize your driver, and keeping poking at it until you line up. Had both done quickly. Thanks to all on the forum, this is pretty easy, but only because of the steps others have posted. I hope this additional info is helpful. Glad my 2019 now has auto dim like my 2007 did, although my 2007 had the temp in the mirror which was an added continence.

Hey everyone, I’ve read over and over that you just “gently squeeze and pull” the black plastic cover over the mirror and that this only takes “about 10min in total.” Guys, I’ve seriously been yanking on this black cover for 10 minutes and it’s not breaking loose. I feel like I’m missing something. Can anyone add more insight other than “gently pulling?” Does the small piece need to come off before the large piece? Can this safely be pried off with a plastic tool? I feel like I’m missing something.