Jump to content

[gmt900] Disabling Auto Doors Lock

ocean4200

Recommended Posts

ocean4200 Enthusiast

ocean4200

Posted
Posted

When I put the truck on Drive, the doors lock automatically... Can I disable this function?

 

Thanks...

 

By the way, no information was found in the manual so far...

2009 LTZ Enthusiast

2009 LTZ

Posted
Posted
When I put the truck on Drive, the doors lock automatically... Can I disable this function?

 

Thanks...

 

By the way, no information was found in the manual so far...

 

Believe it's one of the setting in the DIC setup prompts. Should be in your owners manual.

jhbrennan Enthusiast

jhbrennan

Posted
Posted
When I put the truck on Drive, the doors lock automatically... Can I disable this function?

 

Thanks...

 

By the way, no information was found in the manual so far...

Looks like the only choices on DIC customization for auto lock are at 'shift out of park" (default) or "at vehicle speed" - I didn't see any reference to disabling.
tjcbenz Enthusiast

tjcbenz

Posted
Posted

I really want to disable these dumb things on my GMT800. From all the research I have been able to do, I am SOL because I have an 05. They have a bulletin describing everything. You can disable 06 and 07 OBSs by taking them to the dealer and they have to go in with their computer and disable them that way. But for my 05 for whatever reason, no dice. My point is....if you can do this on an 06 and 07 OBS, I would think this would be possible for a NBS...actually the bulletin mentions 08s. So might be possible, but a dealer visit and a 100 something bucks later only.

 

Here is the bulletin

welscher08 Enthusiast

welscher08

Posted
Posted

I know on an 03 model it is explained in the manual. I was looking at my work truck's manual one day and you can set it when you shift it from park, or at 8 mph it locks them, or it never locks them. Let me know if you guys dont figure it out and i copy and scan the manual pages and get them on here. They might have disabled it though in the later GMT-800's though. I have no idea on that.

C. Charles Hahn Senior Enthusiast

C. Charles Hahn

Posted
Posted
When I put the truck on Drive, the doors lock automatically... Can I disable this function?

 

Thanks...

 

By the way, no information was found in the manual so far...

Looks like the only choices on DIC customization for auto lock are at 'shift out of park" (default) or "at vehicle speed" - I didn't see any reference to disabling.

 

 

:thumbs:

Stex Senior Enthusiast

Stex

Posted
Posted

I too would like to disable the dang thing from locking...had talked to dealer on my NBS 900 and he said no way...will ask again based on the obs bul..

 

If you drive much on a ranch, pasture, quail hunt etc...it is a great pain...gas, lock, brake, park unlock, gas, lock etc every 100 yards/feet or so.....should be an option

 

more nanny state control and gm trying to cut law suits etc....not to mention that you will replace them sooner with this system...

Nick The Great Senior Enthusiast

Nick The Great

Posted
Posted

My 2007 GMT900 locks when shifted out of Park but unlocks when put in Park. I rarely get out of the truck while it's in gear, so it doesn't bother me too much. :)

 

Now my 99 would lock after 18mph and not unlock. THAT was a PITA. :thumbs:

brandon_guzzo Enthusiast

brandon_guzzo

Posted
Posted
My 2007 GMT900 locks when shifted out of Park but unlocks when put in Park. I rarely get out of the truck while it's in gear, so it doesn't bother me too much. :)

 

Now my 99 would lock after 18mph and not unlock. THAT was a PITA. :thumbs:

 

My 2000 unlocks when the key is take out im sure the 99 did also, unless you never take you keys out then yes it was a PITA

mfennema Enthusiast

mfennema

Posted
Posted
I too would like to disable the dang thing from locking...had talked to dealer on my NBS 900 and he said no way...will ask again based on the obs bul..

 

If you drive much on a ranch, pasture, quail hunt etc...it is a great pain...gas, lock, brake, park unlock, gas, lock etc every 100 yards/feet or so.....should be an option

 

more nanny state control and gm trying to cut law suits etc....not to mention that you will replace them sooner with this system...

 

 

If you drive with the door open they don't lock.

Nick The Great Senior Enthusiast

Nick The Great

Posted
Posted
My 2007 GMT900 locks when shifted out of Park but unlocks when put in Park. I rarely get out of the truck while it's in gear, so it doesn't bother me too much. :lol:

 

Now my 99 would lock after 18mph and not unlock. THAT was a PITA. :D

 

My 2000 unlocks when the key is take out im sure the 99 did also, unless you never take you keys out then yes it was a PITA

 

 

Nope. There were a lot of differences between the 99's and the 00's. That was probably one of them.

 

Hit the UNLOCK switch after they lock. :P

 

I got into a habit of hitting the unlock button after I turned the ignition off. I caught myself doing that for a month or so after I got my 2007! :lol:

 

My Dad's 1992 F150 locks at a certain point, but the door opens with the door locked. :thumbs: Every Ford that I know of of that era did it. Seems like a safety hazard to me, but who knows. :)

bugmenot Enthusiast

bugmenot

Posted
Posted

Disabling Auto Door Locks Document ID: 2131711 #PIT3189J Manual mode operation reprogram May 6, 2008 Reprogram BCM with calibrations from Tis2Web. This TSB was in the Wiki. I had this done to my GMT900 because I don't like to be locked in it. I also tuned off the auto headlights myself but thats another story.

C. Charles Hahn Senior Enthusiast

C. Charles Hahn

Posted
Posted
My Dad's 1992 F150 locks at a certain point, but the door opens with the door locked. :thumbs: Every Ford that I know of of that era did it. Seems like a safety hazard to me, but who knows. :lol:

 

Actually that makes sense.... I think they did that so you can open it from the inside in an emergency, but you could turn that off with child safety locks on the rear doors of cars.

 

Kind of wish GM had the same thing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...