Jump to content

Best Way To Access The Aux Light Cable Included With Plow Pack

blakerugg

Recommended Posts

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted

Gently pull down the headliner by the drivers side door. Shine a light in there and look for a brown/black wire. I was able to fish mine out with a pair of long-nose pliers, but I've heard of people taking off the third brake light to access it, a bent coat hanger, reaching their arm in there, ect.

blakerugg Enthusiast

blakerugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Gently pull down the headliner by the drivers side door. Shine a light in there and look for a brown/black wire. I was able to fish mine out with a pair of long-nose pliers, but I've heard of people taking off the third brake light to access it, a bent coat hanger, reaching their arm in there, ect.

 

thanks. would u happen to know how to do it through the 3rd brake light??

 

 

Does that wire for the light already have switched power? At the fuse panel?

 

yes it does and its also wired to the dash...at least in my case anyway.

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted
Gently pull down the headliner by the drivers side door. Shine a light in there and look for a brown/black wire. I was able to fish mine out with a pair of long-nose pliers, but I've heard of people taking off the third brake light to access it, a bent coat hanger, reaching their arm in there, ect.

 

thanks. would u happen to know how to do it through the 3rd brake light??

 

 

Does that wire for the light already have switched power? At the fuse panel?

 

yes it does and its also wired to the dash...at least in my case anyway.

 

 

 

 

I'm not entirely sure how to do it via the 3rd brake light, but it would seem rather straight forward. Pop off the light cover and see where that gets you. If nobody responds here, I'll go mess with mine tomorrow. I had my headliner down a while ago to wire my strobe switches into the ceiling console, so I just pulled mine down into the panel behind the driver's seat in case I ever decide to wire something to it.

hockeypro1411 Senior Enthusiast

hockeypro1411

Posted
Posted
Is there any reason I couldn't use that wiring to run a 90W strobe kit?

 

A Whelen 90W kit shows 77W of input power. Well under the 250 in that spec above.

 

Nope. I had my 90W Whelen kit wired to that for a while, but I realized that it was rather pointless. I just wired it to come on with the ignition. There's no reason to put the strobe power supply on a switch. The diagram shows that it just needs to be wired into a 10 amp fuse. If you do it the way I did it, you'll need a minimum of 2 switches. I used 3 so I can control the fronts/backs or left/right depending how I plug them in, and the third one to change the flash pattern. There was the option for a fourth for a hi/lo power switch, but the default is that they stay on high power unless your switch it to low. Probably more than you wanted to know, but take it for what it's worth. And if you plan on wiring this yourself, set aside 3-4 hours if you know what you're doing.

 

Edit: I can get some pictures for you if you're interested.

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

The plow prep beacon wires run on the left side of the floor up

the left rear B pillar to a relay near the shoulder belt

anchor then are deadheaded in the ceiling above the

drivers head.

 

You could just take the B pillar cover off (after removing

shoulder belt bolt) and pull the wires back from over the

drivers seat.

CasualButJiggy Enthusiast

CasualButJiggy

Posted
Posted

So removing the over head console will get me to the the coil of wire which I can then run to whereever i want to do my connections? or the wire goes from the switch over to where the B pillar is? Are we talking two different model years?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...