Jump to content

285's Or 265's?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am looking for opinions.

 

I need new tires for my 2003 Z71, and I am torn between 285/75/16's or 265/75/16's. I drive about 40 miles round trip every day, I hunt and fish A LOT, and I help my Father on his horse farm. Traction is important, so I will be going with mud tires, but which size should I get? Will the loss of power be big with the bigger tires? Will the gas mileage reall fall?

 

What would you suggest?

Posted

Not a significant change, provided you stick to the same tire rating (i.e., LT v. P, D-rated v. E-rated, etc.). Muds, all other things equal, will not yield as good of MPG as all terrains.

 

A bigger impact is your gearing and your primary type of use (i.e., city v. highway mileage). I know of 4WD Tahoes that get better mileage than my 2WD Tahoe, even with larger tires than mine, just because their gear ratios are lower (i.e., higher numerical value). My 2WD Tahoe with 3.23 gears on 265/70/17 tires is primarily city-driven, so it's like trying to ride a 10-speed bike in 10th gear all the time - a real bitch at low speeds. My mileage would go UP if my gears were say 3.73 or 4.10, so much so that I could even increase my tire size and still net a gain in MPG.

Posted

I have an 03 too. I ordered Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs in 285/70R/17, my stock wheels were 16's but I also bought 17" rims. The tires look awsome. I havent driven my truck yet, because its in shop getting 3" body lift and rims and tires on. I should be getting it back today!

Posted

if your going mud terrain also give the 255/85/R16 a look. I had a set of BFG MT's on my 2000. Taller than a 285 (no fitment issues) and not as wide (less rock chips)

 

Also cheaper than a 285 :cheers:

Posted

Higher friction tires like mudders will negatively affect mpg. How much, it depends on the tires, air pressure and how you drive.

 

Larger diameter tires negatively affect around town driving mpg more than highway mpg. It depends on how much larger and how hard you mash the pedal from a stop and/or how often you tow or haul.

 

DEWFPO

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...