Jump to content

Newtruckitis


Recommended Posts

Posted

During all of my thinking and debating on towing the camper (7k lbs loaded), I keep coming back to a truck just like mine, but w/ a 6L80/3.42 combo as being a good overall match. The *only* reason I've thought about this is that my current truck can be a little rough (3rd / 2nd shifting) on mixed grades with this much load, and the 2k lbs extra tow rating w/ the 6-spd. I have always maintained that this isn't enough of an issue to go out and buy a new truck just to get a 6-spd, especially since I really like the 4-spd for daily driving (which is mostly what I do).

 

However... I made the mistake of looking into a 2010 identical to mine, but w/ the 6-spd. I was surprised at how little the difference there may be to swap. It's not trivial $$ (to me) by any means, but a lot better than I would have guessed. New truck prices have shot up so much, that resale values on recent used models have apparently held very well. Add poor sales and good rebates, and it doesn't look too bad. This may be smoke and mirrors, as you don't really know until you negotiate actual transactions... but it looks reasonable.

 

edit: I figure others have considered the same... so this thread isn't really about what I'm considering, but for everyone who's thought about it.

Posted
The *only* reason I've thought about this is that my current truck can be a little rough (3rd / 2nd shifting) on mixed grades with this much load, ....

 

Get a shift kit (TransGo HD2 ideally).

Posted

No dice for me, I like my truck and don't want or need to change it up. I'm always looking at new trucks, always have probably always will, but I don't need one.

Posted

Appreciate the cold water (really), just tossing around the idea and looking for input from folks who are thinking straight. I'm pretty sure the towing shifts and TC function can be better optimized on the 4-spd for our camper weight. Some of the $$ difference could then go into LT tires and upgrading cooling on the 08.

 

FWIW, I don't like buying vehicles, so this isn't about getting something new. I'm only considering performance (pulling and stability) differences and the cost. Before doing more to my 08, I figured this was worth hashing out if pricing was reasonable. This all started with looking at 2500HDs last year, deciding that was probably overkill, and then looking at the new 6-spd trucks with their oversized tow ratings. After driving a couple, I was impressed w/ the tow/haul function of the 6-spd... so it got me thinking, now that rebate time has arrived. I don't believe the big tow rating numbers, as they are mostly achieved by improved oil cooling and (maybe) the extra gearing (everything else is the same).

Posted

A few pros/cons I came up with:

 

New features that matter on the 2010 1500

- 6L80/3.42 looks like a nice all-around setup (strong launch, tow like a 4.10 in 3rd/4th/5th, and cruise (unloaded) like a 3.23 in 6th)

- 9500 lb tow capacity (mostly just due to improved cooling pkg, including motor oil cooling?)

- 6L80 is rated for ~80 more ft/lbs

- Side/head air bags

- 5.3 gets VVT (not sure if this is good or bad... but I don't plan on any cam swaps.)

- A few other enhancements (body mounts, quieter, ...)

 

Benefits of not changing

- $$$ in pocket to go towards other things (like LT tires, etc.)

- 3.73 rear generates less heat/stress in the diff when towing than a 3.42

- 4L60 is (relatively) cheap to build (or rebuild) to handle higher loads (good aftermarket)

- Know what I have, and it's all good (no oil use, no engine issues or noise, no rattles/etc., good paint, good economy...)

- A few extras have been removed since 08 (e.g., rear defrost, auto-dim mirror w/ compass, etc.)

Posted

I have a '09 5.3/A6 CCSB 4wd - honestly it's nice and all, but it's not worth the money for just the transmission. I upgraded from a 2003 4.8/A4 ECSB 2wd, which was replaced based on wanting 4wd b/c of a change in terrain my truck sees.

Posted

Your '08 5.3L already has VVT. Also the extras that have been removed since '08 can be put back in by you after purchasing the vehicle.

Posted

If you were going to upgrade and take the $$ hit you might as well step up to the 2500HD. I would not look at it as overkill, rather you'll have a truck that can do whatever you throw at it and keep you and your family safer when hauling/towing. Numbers and ratings aside you are probably maxing out your current setup with that weight trailer. For the HD you'll be well within the tow ratings (max is between 10,000-12,700 lbs with the 6.0/6spd depened on if you get the 3.73 or 4.10 gear)

 

Buying almost the exact same truck with the 6spd is NOT A TRUE IMPROVEMENT. What you really need fore a truly better haul rig is a chassis improvement, we are talkng bigger brakes, larger heavier frame, beefier axles, more stability, better cooling capacity etc. Buying that 6spd 1500 MIGHT get you moving a litter faster, and let ther truck stay in the power band more of the time with less shifting, but thats all it wont stop better, handle better or be more stable.

 

If all you are concerend about is having a more heavy duty transmission, you could get a 4l60e that is built to take a beating from a place such as performe built w/ their heavy hauler series transmissions (heavy hauler 4l60e). For $1900.00 you could get a trans that would eat any 6l80 for lunch. Then throw in some 4.10 gears in your truck and you'll have a rig with a better trans than ANYTHING from the factory.

 

If you need a truck with more safety, stability and piece of mind, you should step up to the 2500HD

 

If you mainly want a more durable powertrain, skip the 6l80 and make your trucks transmission bulletproof.

Posted
During all of my thinking and debating on towing the camper (7k lbs loaded), I keep coming back to a truck just like mine, but w/ a 6L80/3.42 combo as being a good overall match. The *only* reason I've thought about this is that my current truck can be a little rough (3rd / 2nd shifting) on mixed grades with this much load, and the 2k lbs extra tow rating w/ the 6-spd. I have always maintained that this isn't enough of an issue to go out and buy a new truck just to get a 6-spd, especially since I really like the 4-spd for daily driving (which is mostly what I do).

 

However... I made the mistake of looking into a 2010 identical to mine, but w/ the 6-spd. I was surprised at how little the difference there may be to swap. It's not trivial $$ (to me) by any means, but a lot better than I would have guessed. New truck prices have shot up so much, that resale values on recent used models have apparently held very well. Add poor sales and good rebates, and it doesn't look too bad. This may be smoke and mirrors, as you don't really know until you negotiate actual transactions... but it looks reasonable.

 

edit: I figure others have considered the same... so this thread isn't really about what I'm considering, but for everyone who's thought about it.

 

You have 2 years paid on the note on the one you have. Plus loss of value in resale market.

 

But go BIG or GO HOME. If your going to upgrade and want to pull stuff. 2500HD my friend.. Not to mention GM figured we would all be glad to pay and extra 10k for a new rig...

 

Jbo

Posted

If you do make the move to a 2500HD, there is one thought you might take into consideration:

 

There will be a new updated HD truck coming out in the near future. Chances are that the current HD models will be available at a better discount price to move whatever is out there off the lots. You might find a decent deal on an HD if you want one.

Posted
Your '08 5.3L already has VVT. Also the extras that have been removed since '08 can be put back in by you after purchasing the vehicle.

 

Really? That's news to me... I thought they added VVT to the 5.3 in 2010?

 

Appreciate all the responses. Clear-headed thinking always helps. There are some good options to consider w/ what I already have, and little to be gained (overall for towing) by just adding the 6-spd.

 

Something else I noticed when test driving a 5.3/6-spd was that the 2010 was quieter when running 3500+ rpms. Did GM enhance sound deadening, or modify the exhaust from 2008 to 2010?

Posted
Your '08 5.3L already has VVT. Also the extras that have been removed since '08 can be put back in by you after purchasing the vehicle.

 

Really? That's news to me... I thought they added VVT to the 5.3 in 2010?

 

Appreciate all the responses. Clear-headed thinking really helps. There are some good options to consider w/ what I already have, and little to be gained by just the 6-spd for towing.

 

Something else I noticed when test driving a 5.3/6-spd was that the 2010 was quieter when running 3500+ rpms. Did GM enhance sound deadening, or modify the exhaust from 2008 to 2010?

 

 

I believe a resonator was added to the 09+ 5.3L exhaust vs our 08' model year. I've also heard that the 09+ 5.3's are not as throatier as the previous years. Mine has nice throaty sound stock with the GMPP CAI under throttle. No need for a loud muffler. I thought about upgrading also but it's not worth it just for mainly the 6L80. I'm very happy with the way mine tows my 5Klbs boat as is. After my April BB tune and Corvette servo I can only imagine more love happening.

 

My LY5 08 5.3L is not VVT equipped and to my knowledge no 08' 5.3L was either except for the L76 6.0L.

Posted
My LY5 08 5.3L is not VVT equipped and to my knowledge no 08' 5.3L was either except for the L76 6.0L.

 

My understanding was that all of the Gen-IV 5.3Ls were VVT enabled.... :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...