Jump to content

Rough Country 3'' Suspension


Recommended Posts

Posted

hey guys, so i just got off the phone with the local(and only) suspension place here in town to inquire about a leveling kit and rear blocks...after speaking with him he said they stock rough country and had mentioned that RC had a 3'' suspension lift that is a much better route and does the job not just half the job as a level and blocks would do. im not interested in actually leveling the truck i was just trying to get a bit more hieght as i like a little rake. so i guess im just wonder if this IS a better route for what i want and also what this kit is like? i have looked on here and didnt find anything really specific to this kit. also he is qouting me 480 to purchase and 250-300 to install all in CAD funds. that is with an aliignment. seemed pretty fair seeing how the kit is the premium kit with ball joints and new arms skid plate all that kind of stuff....sooo whats your input?? he said he had sold over 100,000 worth of this kit in the last 2 years and has only had the odd strut come back that hgad gotten beat out but he also says he sells skyjacker and BDS too and the same thing. the odd strut.

Posted

Don't buy this kit. I had it and it is shit. You will have nothing but problems with it. Some other people will come on here and tell you the same thing. several of us bought this kit and bitched so much that RC actually bought it back from me and a few others. That shop probably sold $100,000 worth of it in the last 2 years, but they probably got half of that from having to re-align every damn truck they put it on numerous times. Your truck will not ever align properly with that kit. Like I said, RC bought mine back. You will either ride on the outside of your tires at all times, or the UCA's will hit the strut springs. Just do the CCM 2.5" leveling kit ($80), and the zone 1.5" body lift ($200) for 4 inches of lift like me. Trust me (and several others that should chime in here) and don't buy this kit. Everyone warned me, and I didn't listen and wasted a lot of money on the kit and installation, and re-alignments, and adjusting the UCA's so they wouldn't touch. 3 different shops couldn't get it right. Ill try to post some links for you a little later.

Posted
Don't buy this kit. I had it and it is shit. You will have nothing but problems with it. Some other people will come on here and tell you the same thing. several of us bought this kit and bitched so much that RC actually bought it back from me and a few others. That shop probably sold $100,000 worth of it in the last 2 years, but they probably got half of that from having to re-align every damn truck they put it on numerous times. Your truck will not ever align properly with that kit. Like I said, RC bought mine back. You will either ride on the outside of your tires at all times, or the UCA's will hit the strut springs. Just do the CCM 2.5" leveling kit ($80), and the zone 1.5" body lift ($200) for 4 inches of lift like me. Trust me (and several others that should chime in here) and don't buy this kit. Everyone warned me, and I didn't listen and wasted a lot of money on the kit and installation, and re-alignments, and adjusting the UCA's so they wouldn't touch. 3 different shops couldn't get it right. Ill try to post some links for you a little later.

 

i had just found one link to a little review someone had posted...doesnt look good. haha i am looking into other options and may just go with what i was going to do in the begining 2'' level 3'' rear blocks and later a 1.5'' or 3'' zone BL

Posted

Im on most of these thread under user name "NickS" as well. (GMfullsize.com)

 

 

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195069

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194992

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194729

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192791

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186912

 

 

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177313

 

 

It is a lot of reading, but I wish these were up when I was looking at buying mine. There are a couple on this website as well. Read through these before you pull the trigger. They should help you make your decision.

Posted

Yeah, my zone 1.5 is in the garage right now for a little later in the month. Right now, I have a CCM 2.5 " leveling kit, and 3" rear blocks. The rake is about 1". It looks good in my opinion. Can't wait to add the zone BL.

Posted

one bad thread like the one i just read is enough for me to make my decision. over 5 ppl with bad experiences with this kit in one thread makes it easy for me to NOT use this kit on my $35,000 truck. not looking into some other 3'' and 4'' kits i see skyjacker had a 3'' aswell...im only looking for a little more hieght and then if i want more down the road i will add a body lift but for now i dont need much as the wife drives it more than i do...lol.

Posted

There have been countless posts on this site about the consequences of installing that kit. Take it from another victim of the RC 3" kit....DONT BUY IT!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...