Jump to content

Brake Upgrade For Gmt-900 Sierra

Tklei14

Recommended Posts

Tklei14 Enthusiast

Tklei14

Posted
Posted

I have a 09 Sierra 1500 and my OEM front rotors and pads are starting to get loud with about 35k miles on the truck. I had the brakes re-surfaced under warranty at around 5k miles because they were shaking pretty bad; I'm not sure if they replaced the pads when they did this. My pads are starting to go now, I can hear the wear sensor grinding from time to time so I probably have less than 1k miles before I will need the change.

 

I'm just not sure if I should have the OEM rotors cut again and throw on new pads or if I should upgrade the brakes now. The OEM rotors have been cut once already so this would be the second cut, what I have found on other cars is the more you cut the rotors the faster they warp. I get on the brakes alot as most of the driving I do for work is stop and go, when the OEM brakes get hot on this I can feel the fronts are a little warped.

 

What are my options for aftermarket brakes? I don't want to mess around with something as important as the brakes so maybe OEM is the best option. I think my rear drums are in good shape, but I will have the dealer check them out when its in for service.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt go back with OEM they suck on the GMT900 IMO. Most guys on here get EBC or Powerslot rotors. I am running the powerslots and Hawk pads and Im very happy with this setup.

 

BTW my factory ones had hot spots and were warped. I use my brakes very little and they should not have been that way reminds me of the cheap metal autozone uses.

Tklei14 Enthusiast

Tklei14

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I wouldnt go back with OEM they suck on the GMT900 IMO. Most guys on here get EBC or Powerslot rotors. I am running the powerslots and Hawk pads and Im very happy with this setup.

 

BTW my factory ones had hot spots and were warped. I use my brakes very little and they should not have been that way reminds me of the cheap metal autozone uses.

 

 

How many miles did you have when you replaced the rotors? Do you feel like these stop better or do you think they just handle the heat better and won't warp as fast? did you go with slotted or drilled?

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

Bowtie2Sierra Enthusiast

Bowtie2Sierra

Posted
Posted

I'm curious to see the replies to this thread. I have the same problem. My rotors were resurfaced at around 4,000 miles (should have demanded new rotors in hindsight) and have squeaking the last few thousand miles. I only have 22,000 miles on the truck and it has been in 3 times for the dealer to look at the crappy brakes. I'm done with the dealer and the OEM brakes. I'm switching them out to aftermarket in a few months when the weather cools down. I'm still on the fence about what I want though so chime in guys with all your recommendations.

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted
I wouldnt go back with OEM they suck on the GMT900 IMO. Most guys on here get EBC or Powerslot rotors. I am running the powerslots and Hawk pads and Im very happy with this setup.

 

BTW my factory ones had hot spots and were warped. I use my brakes very little and they should not have been that way reminds me of the cheap metal autozone uses.

 

 

How many miles did you have when you replaced the rotors? Do you feel like these stop better or do you think they just handle the heat better and won't warp as fast? did you go with slotted or drilled?

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

 

 

 

I had 55k miles on the factory ones. They were warped but not horrible, no abs kicking on, but a pedal shake. I decide to get PowerSlots because I knew they would have high quality metals. I think Napa costs around 80 bucks and the PowerSlot cost me 105 each so well worth it to me. They are just slotted not drilled. The cooling fins inside are directional which I really like because they help cooling. The Hawk ceramic pads are quiet and do great on stopping with the rotors. They do put off a little more brake dust than stock, but it is not that bad. Btw I have 65k miles now and they still stop great.

  • 2 weeks later...
atlantaman Enthusiast

atlantaman

Posted
Posted

I had to replace the pads and rotors on my 97 yukon, 01 tahoe, and 05 denali (over the years) and floun all of them to have a weird hybrid rotor that had a steel hat and cast iron ring. I found that the steel hat would flex and warp often.

 

I replaced them all with parts from Autozone called Weaever (i think) and the car stopped shaking and stopped a lot faster.

 

Now that I am doing a lot of towing with my 05 Sierra Denali, I am looking for something with serious stopping--I may even look at a bigger diameter rotor kit.

gnet158 Senior Enthusiast

gnet158

Posted
Posted

The new rotors and breaks STINK! I had my rotors replaced with no name (nothing fancy) and she finally stops like she should. I just wish I had 4-wheel disk like I had on my old truck. If I keep my truck (looking at the left over 2500's) I may do a conversion on the rear.

 

I've seen some of the rotors and calipers some of the guys are running and they are SWEET!

shocktrp Enthusiast

shocktrp

Posted
Posted

You guys with GMT-900's burning out brakes - are you using a 1500 as a work truck?

 

When I went to the dealer the salesman actually told me to get the 2500 because of the bigger brakes. He said a few months earlier he sold a 1500 to a guy using it for business purposes and the guy was back every 4k miles to replace the front pads - which the dealer wouldn't replace under warranty after the first time. He said the guy caused a huge scene & as a result he started pushing everyone with a business into a 2500 (which is virtually the same price) so they wouldn't come back unhappy (or surprised that they need brakes every 3 months).

 

(I don't tow, but I do occasionally haul around a lot of weight and I drive in stop & go traffic - 52k miles & I'm still on my original pads all around.)

gnet158 Senior Enthusiast

gnet158

Posted
Posted

I don't know if it's the "unlucky" luck of the draw, but breaks seem to be hit and miss. I don't tow, don't haul heavy loads (except my big butt, some stop and go traffic and I went thru my breaks at 19k. My front end did shimmy a bit under breaking so I figured that resurfacing my rotors would fix it. It didn't and then I smoked my breaks coming down the local mountains.

 

I was pissed! After new rotors she's fine.

 

What do you mean the 2500 cost the same? Last time I checked they cost about $15K more than 1500's. When I'm talking about HD 2500's, I'm talking about Diesel.

shocktrp Enthusiast

shocktrp

Posted
Posted
I don't know if it's the "unlucky" luck of the draw, but breaks seem to be hit and miss. I don't tow, don't haul heavy loads (except my big butt, some stop and go traffic and I went thru my breaks at 19k. My front end did shimmy a bit under breaking so I figured that resurfacing my rotors would fix it. It didn't and then I smoked my breaks coming down the local mountains.

 

I was pissed! After new rotors she's fine.

 

What do you mean the 2500 cost the same? Last time I checked they cost about $15K more than 1500's. When I'm talking about HD 2500's, I'm talking about Diesel.

 

I'm talking about comparably optioned trucks (not the $9200 diesel option).

 

1500 (4x4, LT, RCLB, 4.8, A4, 3.42) starts at $30,085

2500HD (4x4, LT, RCLB 6.0, A6, 3.73) starts at $34,310

 

(W/T & LS models are cheaper but they don't directly compare with the same options.)

 

The difference in price is $4,225. This is an additional $1,500 cash back on the 2500HD bringing the total price difference to $2,725.

 

For the extra $2,725 you get;

- Chrome package

- Bigger front brakes

- Rear disc brakes

- Full floating rear

- Larger axles

- Lower gears

- More displacement

- Bigger tranny (with 2 extra gears)

- Auto grade tranny braking

- Tranny cooler

- Oil cooler

- Power steering cooler

- Torsion bars

- Larger frame & suspension

- Higher cargo & towing capacities

tanked_darren Senior Enthusiast

tanked_darren

Posted
Posted
You guys with GMT-900's burning out brakes - are you using a 1500 as a work truck?

 

When I went to the dealer the salesman actually told me to get the 2500 because of the bigger brakes. He said a few months earlier he sold a 1500 to a guy using it for business purposes and the guy was back every 4k miles to replace the front pads - which the dealer wouldn't replace under warranty after the first time. He said the guy caused a huge scene & as a result he started pushing everyone with a business into a 2500 (which is virtually the same price) so they wouldn't come back unhappy (or surprised that they need brakes every 3 months).

 

(I don't tow, but I do occasionally haul around a lot of weight and I drive in stop & go traffic - 52k miles & I'm still on my original pads all around.)

I never tow. I drive normal. I carry a box load maybe a few times a year.

I bought a 1500 W/T 2007 NBS under the impression I'd drive it TO work. I don't even use it at work and my brakes were toast at 60,000kms rotors were warped.

 

TOTALLY gonna upgrade the rotors and change the calipers. (I suspect the passenger sticks, so I'll do both)

 

 

Rear Drums on a side note: TOP NOTCH!

crepitus Enthusiast

crepitus

Posted
Posted

your stories sound the same as mine. had the truck in under 5k miles. demanded new rotors. they said they could only cut them. lasted about 10k and started up again. at 15k miles brakes are considered a wear item and no longer under warranty. so i went this route and am very pleased with the quality.

 

Eagle Brakes

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...