Changing To Full Syn

[Chris]

what do i need to do? i have heard i need to flush the oil. im goting to do this next weekend so i need to know what to buy. doing this on 2 trucks an 04 sierra and an 06 silverado. both 4.8's

[MS3DALE]

Nothing special,Just change it.

[Chris]

i heard i had to flush... i dont have to? and rich i need a p/n on a fog light conversion kit 06 silverado. and a front valance for a 04 sierra with fogs.

[MS3DALE]

I've never heard of flushing before changing,but who knows

 

On the Silverado fog light kit,Part#17802547

On the Sierra valance,Part#12335963 This is for a smooth "paint-to-match" one.

[cerbomark]

no flush, just change it.

[Crazy Canuck]

Nothing special,Just change it.

 

 

x2. Fushing is a gimmick at best. If you buy that, make sure you load up on kanutson valves, johnson rods, and blinker fluids at the same time.

[bluegmctruck]

you use to have to flush because conventional and synthetic oil were not compatible. the oil companies have fixed this problem and it should be on the label for the oil. just change the oil.

[Chris]

Nothing special,Just change it.

 

 

x2. Fushing is a gimmick at best. If you buy that, make sure you load up on kanutson valves, johnson rods, and blinker fluids at the same time.

 

 

that reminds me i have to add blinker fulid today. the dic was saying im a lil low lol

[Chris]

I've never heard of flushing before changing,but who knows

 

On the Silverado fog light kit,Part#17802547

On the Sierra valance,Part#12335963 This is for a smooth "paint-to-match" one.

 

what comes in the fog light kit

[dlstewart01]

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...tics/Myths.aspx

[[email protected]]

I knew exactly what that page was gonna say as soon as I looked at the end of URL and saw it said "Myths".

[Z45]

you use to have to flush because conventional and synthetic oil were not compatible. the oil companies have fixed this problem and it should be on the label for the oil. just change the oil.

 

 

That has never been the case for the well know brands. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL have been on the market since the early 1970's and they have always been compatible with mineral oils. Matter of fact it was common back in the 70's and 80's to add a qt of synthetic oil because it was a high detergent oil and run that for a oil change interval to clean up the inside of the engine. The reason to flush is like taking a shower before dressing up. You don't want to put on new underwear and not take a shower (well maybe some would). Same thing with the engine. If you been using mineral oil for a long time, engine deposits can form and some synthetic oils are very high in detergents. What can (not saying will) is that the synthetic oil can start to clean up these deposits very fast and could get used up in a short time. One symptom of this is increased oil consumption (burning oil) because the oil is holding a lot of these deposits in suspension and the oil filter might be at capacity or lack the capability to filter everything out.

 

Am I saying every one should flush before switching? No, what I am saying you have to evaluate the engine usage prior to changing over and decide weather is a good idea. Often times you can just look down the oil filler and see how clean the engine is. If you see black looking metal surfaces or any gummy looking deposits, might be best to flush it or the new high detergent synthetic will be all used up in a couple thousand miles.

 

Now days there are a few products on the market that are very safe to use, Auto RX, AMSOIL for instance. Both of these are not chemical flush. The Auto RX has to be left in for a couple thousand miles, the AMSOIl for 15 min.

 

So when you hear someone say, I changed to synthetic and now I am burning oil. Chances are high the engine had deposits that the oil has cleaned up and has reached is capacity to continue to do so. Often frequent oil filters changes will correct this providing a good filter is used.

[Black02Silverado]

you use to have to flush because conventional and synthetic oil were not compatible. the oil companies have fixed this problem and it should be on the label for the oil. just change the oil.

 

 

That has never been the case for the well know brands. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL have been on the market since the early 1970's and they have always been compatible with mineral oils. Matter of fact it was common back in the 70's and 80's to add a qt of synthetic oil and run that for a oil change interval to clean up the inside of the engine. The reason to flush is like taking a shower before dressing up. You don't want to put on new underwear and not take a shower (well maybe some would). Same thing with the engine. If you been using mineral oil for a long time, engine deposits can form and some synthetic oils are very high in detergents. What can (not saying will) is that the synthetic oil can start to clean up these deposits very fast and could get used up in a short time. One symptom of this is increased oil consumption (burning oil) because the oil is holding a lot of these deposits in suspension and the oil filter might be at capacity or lack the capability to filter everything out.

 

Am I saying every one should flush before switching? No, what I am saying you have to evaluate the engine usage prior to changing over and decide weather is a good idea. Often times you can just look down the oil filler and see how clean the engine is. If you see black looking metal surfaces or any gummy looking deposits, might be best to flush it or the new high detergent synthetic will be all used up in a couple thousand miles.

 

Now days there are a few products on the market that are very safe to use, Auto RX, AMSOIL for instance. Both of these are not chemical flush. The Auto RX has to be left in for a couple thousand miles, the AMSOIl for 15 min.

 

So when you hear someone say, I changed to synthetic and now I am burning oil. Chances are high the engine had deposits that the oil has cleaned up and has reached is capacity to continue to do so. Often frequent oil filters changes will correct this providing a good filter is used.

 

 

 

Auto Rx is a great internal cleaner. It is not "Snake Oil". It isn't a petroleum solvent either, no harsh chemicals. From the Auto Rx site.

 

 

Basic Application Instructions for Auto-Rx®

 

For vehicles in good condition with less than 100,000 miles. This will work for stuck rings, most stuck lifters, and many other situations that are under forced (pressurized) circulation. Not for sludge! Vehicles with more than 100,000 miles may require a second application.

STEP 1 Change the oil and filter. NOTE: If you recently had an oil change and are using conventional or an approved synthetic oil, you may add Auto-Rx® to the existing oil sump.

STEP 2 Pour one 12-oz. bottle of Auto-Rx® into your 4-6 quart oil sump.

STEP 3 Drive 3,000 miles.

STEP 4 Change the oil and oil filter.Your treatment is done. If a second treatment is required, drive at least 3,000 miles before adding Auto-Rx® to a fresh sump.

 

Auto Rx works great. I have seen several UOA that were run before and after and the wear metals were reduced after the cleaning.

[Stex]

you use to have to flush because conventional and synthetic oil were not compatible. the oil companies have fixed this problem and it should be on the label for the oil. just change the oil.

 

 

That has never been the case for the well know brands. Mobil 1 and AMSOIL have been on the market since the early 1970's and they have always been compatible with mineral oils. Matter of fact it was common back in the 70's and 80's to add a qt of synthetic oil because it was a high detergent oil and run that for a oil change interval to clean up the inside of the engine. The reason to flush is like taking a shower before dressing up. You don't want to put on new underwear and not take a shower (well maybe some would). Same thing with the engine. If you been using mineral oil for a long time, engine deposits can form and some synthetic oils are very high in detergents. What can (not saying will) is that the synthetic oil can start to clean up these deposits very fast and could get used up in a short time. One symptom of this is increased oil consumption (burning oil) because the oil is holding a lot of these deposits in suspension and the oil filter might be at capacity or lack the capability to filter everything out.

 

Am I saying every one should flush before switching? No, what I am saying you have to evaluate the engine usage prior to changing over and decide weather is a good idea. Often times you can just look down the oil filler and see how clean the engine is. If you see black looking metal surfaces or any gummy looking deposits, might be best to flush it or the new high detergent synthetic will be all used up in a couple thousand miles.

 

Now days there are a few products on the market that are very safe to use, Auto RX, AMSOIL for instance. Both of these are not chemical flush. The Auto RX has to be left in for a couple thousand miles, the AMSOIl for 15 min.

 

So when you hear someone say, I changed to synthetic and now I am burning oil. Chances are high the engine had deposits that the oil has cleaned up and has reached is capacity to continue to do so. Often frequent oil filters changes will correct this providing a good filter is used.

 

 

I agree with Mike. If you know the engine history and have been changing every 3,000 miles and less than say 100,000 miles on engines you should not need to flush. If oil changes have been here and there or you do not know the engines history, a flush might be in order. BG also makes a good flush.

 

I have heard some people make their first change over with a synthetic blend. On older engines the seals may leak when going to a full synthetic. Second oil change would be a full synthetic.

[MS3DALE]

 

On the Silverado fog light kit,Part#17802547

 

what comes in the fog light kit

 

 

 

Everything you need....valance,lights,wiring,switch,etc.