Jump to content

Wheel Wells Undercoated !


Recommended Posts

Posted

Is this the rattle can stuff? I was thinking about doing this to mine also. Looks good.

Posted

I believe the stuff he used is a rattle can. My dad used the rustoleum version on his 08, and it is very similar, it looks good, and goes on easy, and provides some chip protection, and is pretty easily touched up.

Posted

I sprayed it myself for pretty cheap. Advanced auto parts had the "3M Professional Rubberized Undercoating" 1lbs cans for $15. each . I used 1.5 cans per side for a total 3 1lbs cans. Some people on here have gotten away with 2 cans but I would recommend 3. Better to have extra then not enough

 

Heres my Parts list:

 

3) 1lbs cans of 3M Professional Rubberized Undercoating.

Degreaser

dish soap

scotch bright pads.

Masking tape.

bottle of rubbing alcohol

and a six pack of your favorite brew :fingersx:

 

Ill writte you up a quick "how to" on how I did mine.

 

First I pryed myself off the couch, grabbed a beer, and made my way into the garage.

 

2) I chalked the front wheels and jacked up the back from the hitch. ( I have a tall Truck and suv Jack) Just enough to were the wheel almost lifted off the ground. I did this just to give me extra room to work inside my wheel well.

 

3) I wash the wheel well out with dish soap and a sponge to get most of the easy stuff off.

 

4) I soaked the wheel well with degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes. I used '' simple green'' Becuase most of the other stuff is harsh on the lungs and your gonna get your head up in that wheel well and scrub any remaining oil and road grime. If your wheel wells are really dirty i would repeat step 3)

 

5) go to the fridge and grab another beer.

 

6) Dry the surface really well with a towel . I even went as far as to use the air compressor to blow out all the nooks and crannies. But this step is not need if you dont have a compressor.

 

7) Use your scotch bright pad and start sanding. You want to scuff the shine off all the surfaces you want to undercoat. The better you prep the better results you'll have. And dont worry you would have to work pretty hard to get down to the bare metal.

 

8) Once your satisified with your prep and the entire wheel well has a nice dull look to it, use a soluvent like paint thinner. If you dont have paint thinner use Rubbing alcohol out of the medicine cabinet like I did. And poor a generous amount on to a clean rag and wipe down the entire wheel well surface.

 

9) Mask off inner lip of the fender and about 2 inches up the fender side of the wheel well.

 

10) Grab another beer from the fridge. Now your ready to spray on your undercoat. I sprayed the side of the trash can first to see how it sprayed. It sprays fast and in a pretty tight pattern so deff hold the can back a good 12 inches and move fairly quick. For easier access to the whole wheel well remove the tire. Im pretty confident in my spray can abilities so I left the tire on and took my time .

 

11) Thats it! repeat steps 1-10 on the other side and with couple hours and a six pack you have yourself the best looking wheel wells in town.

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :fingersx:

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :fingersx:

 

 

I did that before I became a member on here. See my sig pic, it's not done there because that was taken this January. I did them sometime around April.

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :fingersx:

 

 

I did that before I became a member on here. See my sig pic, it's not done there because that was taken this January. I did them sometime around April.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh ok. I guess we can let you by THIS TIME!

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :fingersx:

 

 

I did that before I became a member on here. See my sig pic, it's not done there because that was taken this January. I did them sometime around April.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh ok. I guess we can let you by THIS TIME!

 

 

 

I thought you said you weren't going to be an ass? :fingersx:

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :fingersx:

 

 

I did that before I became a member on here. See my sig pic, it's not done there because that was taken this January. I did them sometime around April.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh ok. I guess we can let you by THIS TIME!

 

 

 

I thought you said you weren't going to be an ass? :D

 

 

 

 

 

It's being asses that brings us closer together. Sometimes we need to bond, and form one great big ass together. :fingersx:

Posted
Lookin' good! i did the same to mine a couple months ago.

 

 

 

Where were the pictures at there son!? :D

 

 

I did that before I became a member on here. See my sig pic, it's not done there because that was taken this January. I did them sometime around April.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh ok. I guess we can let you by THIS TIME!

 

 

 

I thought you said you weren't going to be an ass? :D

 

 

 

 

 

It's being asses that brings us closer together. Sometimes we need to bond, and form one great big ass together. :fingersx:

 

 

Dammit, dammit, dammit. I should've known you would say that! :fingersx:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,726
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Ragg-Boy
    Newest Member
    Ragg-Boy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 866 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...