Jump to content

3" Body Lift - Help Thread


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2008 Silverado extended cab, z71 in dark blue. It had stock z71 wheels and has a leveling kit (not sure of brand since it was on there when I bought it). I want to do a zone 3" body lift and sometime soon, mickey thompson ATZ's....not sure if they will look good on my stock z71 wheels or if I should get aftermarket wheels. This is where I need your guys help. I have looked around the net at a lot of different setups also.

 

Any helpful pictures would be of great assistance in helping me make up my mind with the tires.

 

But the real purpose of this thread is to compile a list of tools needed and/or tips when installing the 3" body lift.

 

A friend of mine said we could potentially use his buddies truck lift to help but I know all of the instructions spell out how to do it using jacks and doing one small part at a time.

 

Thanks for the help fellas.

 

Pic of my truck soon.

Posted

ive installed them both while using truck lifts and just floor jacks. ... honestly i think its easier to install with floor jacks.

 

i do raise the trucks on 4 (3ton each) jack stands and take all the wheels off though.

Posted

Per the instructions, it shows cutting some metal. What do I need to do the cutting? What else out of the ordinary do I need besides sockets and torque wrench?

Posted

a sawzaw and a cutoff wheel come in very handy. a good drill and drill bits.... and knowledge on how to properly drill metal goes a long way (keep bit cool and lubed, dont go fast or you'l burn the bit, slow and steady so that you can see the metal getting cut away in strips/chunks)

 

you'll need extensions for the bolts under the bed.

 

remember that when using an extension the torque applied is less... i usually add about 10 ft-lb to the torque wrench when using a long extension the get to a bolt through the frame.

 

when you apply loctite, threads should be clean and dry.

 

when using a torque wrench you want to hit the proper torque while the bolt is MOVING. if you target 70 ft-lb and tighten the bolt to 60 ft-lb, you wont be able to rotate the bolt anymore since static friction will give you a 70 ft-lb reading on the torque wrench even though its only tightened to 60.

Posted

it's not hard to do. it's very tedious because of all the steps all you need is basic tools but air tools is definantly a lot easier. A standard jack worked great with an 4x4 post to raise the bed and cab. You might need to cut a peice of the frame for the front bumper bracket. Just read the directions a few times before hand so you know what your doing. i have some pics of my truck when i was doing the lift in my albums. I mean im only 18 and did it fine.

Posted

I don't have a sawzal but I have a drill. Could I get a cutoff wheel and do all my cutting with that? How extensive is the cutting? Would a torque wrench that goes from 50-150 ft-lb suffice?

Posted
I don't have a sawzal but I have a drill. Could I get a cutoff wheel and do all my cutting with that? How extensive is the cutting? Would a torque wrench that goes from 50-150 ft-lb suffice?

 

Spend $60 to $100 of an electric powered reciprocating saw... it'll be money well spent and they come in very handy for household chores as well. (a cheap Ryobi is about $60.. but id get the Rigid R300 for $90)

Posted

Looks like the only cutting is a part of the frame for the rear bumper? And it looks like the cut doesn't have to be "precise"...since it's just chopping some off to accomodate the new relocation brackets...right?

Posted

Yes, and also if you use the better PA instructions for the spare tire winch tube you will need it for that also instead of drilling new holes through the bumper.

Posted

Alright cool. My buddy said he has a sawzaw he will let me borrow. I should be good to go now :seeya: My fiance said she would buy the body lift for me and would help pay for new BFG's :uhoh::lol:

 

Now the debate is BFG AT KO 275/70R18 or 285/65R18? The 275 I can get 4 mounted/balanced for $800. In the 285, I can get 4 mounted/balanced for $1080.

Posted

Haha. The 2 sizes are so close in size. The 275 would give me a 1/2" more in height roughly and the 285 would give me 1/2" more in width roughly. So the tradeoff debate begins! Also the taller 275 is a lot cheaper. $280 more for the 285 (total price OTD).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...