Jump to content

Hooking Up Amp And Sub On 2009 Denali


Recommended Posts

Posted

I was told I need PAC os-4 harness to hook up a amp and sub up to a factory Bose on a 2009 Sierra Denali. I have searched for way to long on how to make this work keeping the factory Bose head unit. I bought the PAC and there is no directions on how to keep the stock head unit and hook up a amp and sub. Please someone point me in the right direction. Do I need something else besides the PAC?

Posted

I'm trying to do this same thing with my '04 silverado. I am going to need a different interface kit though. I looked up the one you bought on the PAC website and it says it is for Radio replacement. But maybe it can still be used with the factory head unit. It looks in the pic like there are some male RCA plugs. If you can figure out if it is an output you should be able to use them. You can go to walmart or radio shack or anywhere and get a little RCA that is female on both sides. that way if you had RCA outputs you could connect up to the amp. But those RCA's may be inputs. If they are inputs probably won't do you any good.

 

I guess as a last option you could always go to crutchfield.com and get an aftermarket headunit. They would sent any plastic dash pieces you might need to make it work. You could use the PAC to hook it up. And any decent aftermarket head unit would have the RCA out puts for an amp on the back. But I understand you wanting to keep the bose head unit. Thats what I want to do also.

Posted

Thanks for the input. It looks like I ordered the wrong kit. My friend has a 2006 silverado with Bose and has a amp and sub hooked up with a PAC I am going over there now to see if if will work in my truck. I'll let you know if it works.

 

I'm trying to do this same thing with my '04 silverado. I am going to need a different interface kit though. I looked up the one you bought on the PAC website and it says it is for Radio replacement. But maybe it can still be used with the factory head unit. It looks in the pic like there are some male RCA plugs. If you can figure out if it is an output you should be able to use them. You can go to walmart or radio shack or anywhere and get a little RCA that is female on both sides. that way if you had RCA outputs you could connect up to the amp. But those RCA's may be inputs. If they are inputs probably won't do you any good.

 

I guess as a last option you could always go to crutchfield.com and get an aftermarket headunit. They would sent any plastic dash pieces you might need to make it work. You could use the PAC to hook it up. And any decent aftermarket head unit would have the RCA out puts for an amp on the back. But I understand you wanting to keep the bose head unit. Thats what I want to do also.

Posted

You need a PAC os-1 that's what my friend has. I doesn't work on mine I need another kit that slices into the rear speakers. I was trying to stay away from cutting wires but I guess I have no other option.

 

I'm trying to do this same thing with my '04 silverado. I am going to need a different interface kit though. I looked up the one you bought on the PAC website and it says it is for Radio replacement. But maybe it can still be used with the factory head unit. It looks in the pic like there are some male RCA plugs. If you can figure out if it is an output you should be able to use them. You can go to walmart or radio shack or anywhere and get a little RCA that is female on both sides. that way if you had RCA outputs you could connect up to the amp. But those RCA's may be inputs. If they are inputs probably won't do you any good.

 

I guess as a last option you could always go to crutchfield.com and get an aftermarket headunit. They would sent any plastic dash pieces you might need to make it work. You could use the PAC to hook it up. And any decent aftermarket head unit would have the RCA out puts for an amp on the back. But I understand you wanting to keep the bose head unit. Thats what I want to do also.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,303 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...